Fogger 2 clone

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BJ43

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Got this Fogger in a co-op.

Washed and cleaned my fogger. Even empty the draw was super tight, so I took it apart. The bottom washer was 45% off the holes. Checked the air holes and two were not drilled all the way thru. Reamed all three holes. Setup with 1.5mm vertical nano 28g 1.3ohms coil, cotton filler.

Now two days and three tanks it is still going very strong. The screws are tiny and I had to wrap the 28g tight around the screws or the wire would slip out. Not the easiest for a newbie to setup but very good when it is dialed in. The vertical nano is IMO the best way to set these up. It takes a little practice to get the right amount cotton in there. Too much and you get dry a burnt cotton, too little and you get gurgle and flooding.

 
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BJ43

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I tried this setup with and without the Oring over the feed holes. At first with it on I got a little dry, without it you have to leave it a little unscrewed so the threads stick out on top. This seemed to work at first but then it started to flood. I replaced the Oring and did a looser packing of cotton. Must have gotten it just right and this is very good.:)
 
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BJ43

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that's pretty cool I have a straight piece of cotton acrost both holes and its not flooding but it seems to take awhile to wet the wick I'm turning it upside down between hits , maybe because I'm using a 50/50 pg vg juice?

I use 100% VG, all I have ever used for almost 5 years..... read somewhere when I started that PG was radiator fluid and VG was used in medicine and food. so I started with VG and stayed with it exclusively, except for whatever flavor may have. Hemp is 4 times more absorbent than cotton and 10 times more heat resistant..:D
and the vertical wick is many times more efficient than horizontal wick on these.
 
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BJ43

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Below are a couple of my posts from the Fogger V2....WOW thread


Below is how I get it apart. My second one was really stuck together and both had some kind of thread locking goo.

- first start by running hot water over the base for a few minutes, probably better is boiling the base for a few minutes.
- while it's still warm but cool enough to handle find something to grab around the base and something that fits good in the slots. I use some pliers that I put heat shrink over the jaws and a pair of tweezers in the slot.
- if the chimney cap doesn't thread on or is a little tight, this can happen if you are using something in the slots and have to torque really hard to separate the pieces. (Second pic) I use the heat shrunk pliers and work around the chimney cap threads, slightly squeezing until the chimney cap threads on good.


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Air flow and easy short preventing trick

The ID of the center tube is the most restrictive in the air flow path, followed by the four holes in the center tube, then the three holes in the base with the adjuster ring.

Couple things to check if air seems restricted.

- that the notch in the bottom silicone piece is lined up with the three holes in the base. Instead of worrying about trying to keep it lined up, I trimmed it to the diameter of the disk on the center tube.

- make sure the insulator on the center tube isn't covering the four holes in the center tube.


Here is what the parts look like originally


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Here are the mods I did to eliminate possible shorting and open air flow up to what the adjustment ring allows.

- trimmed bottom silicone piece to diameter of center tube disk.
- glued a piece of plastic opposite of the insulated coil post that is approximately the same height of the insulated coil post.
- cut off the top of the center tube....warning this piece is brass with coating.


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The 510 threads on the fogger are a little long and can cause it not to set down flush on some mods and possibly cause shorting issues. I used a dremel with cutoff wheel and shortened the 510 a little.



And here is what a Fogger should look like :D


Bap posted this on the Fogger thread but thought it would also help here.
 

BJ43

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