I'm sure my grandpa's method is old. There's got to be something new. Could you please tell me how?
Fogger V4!!
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I'm sure my grandpa's method is old. There's got to be something new. Could you please tell me how?
Just a thought mate, is it possible to get an insulated rod down the hole and zap it a few times with your EDM with luck it should hold enough to reverse out.
best of luck!
Well, I am taking solace in the 4.1 I built up today. I've settled in at 25 watts with it, 28 and more was getting a little too harsh. I will say getting 2.769mm, 8 turn spaced coils into it was quite a trick but worth the effort.
I may end up taking you up on your generous offer, bneat. I don't think the oven here will get anywhere nearly hot enough to get that base red hot and I'd worry about discoloring the rest of the steel. I'll probably worry at it, on and off as the mood strikes me, until I either get it out or destroy the base. In the mean time I guess I'll order a replacement, a drill press and a bunch of jobber drills in metric.
I may end up taking you up on your generous offer, bneat. I don't think the oven here will get anywhere nearly hot enough to get that base red hot and I'd worry about discoloring the rest of the steel. I'll probably worry at it, on and off as the mood strikes me, until I either get it out or destroy the base. In the mean time I guess I'll order a replacement, a drill press and a bunch of jobber drills in metric.
Sorry to hear that, I've never tried this on something that small but I have had drill bits shatter like that before and I just take a punch and hammer and break the stuck bit up in the hole and it falls out in pieces. Recommend using this when drilling:
Cutting Oil, 16 oz, Bottle: Cutting Tool Coolants: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Cutting Oil, 16 oz, Bottle: Cutting Tool Coolants: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
I've tried the hammer technique, already, and it did have some success, a little more came out, so that may be the ticket. I was using a hand drill, 1/2" Milwaukee 18v on low range at probably 100 rpm or so. I'm not sure if the bit actually jammed or if the base moved, slightly, in my hand. It was braced on the bench in a groove but I didn't clamp it which seems to have been a fatal error. In either case it was my own fault because I had just a little too much pressure on the drill.
I would have to make an electrode and burn it out in the EDM (electric discharge machine) It's not new technology, but it's come a long way. It's still the slowest way to remove metal.
What the heck material would you use for an electrode? I assume it would be something with a really high melting temperature.
Usually graphite (similar to pencil lead) but sometimes copper.
All an EDM does it jump a spark from the electrode to the work piece and erode a small amount of material with every spark, eventually replicating the shape of the electrode. It's one of the only methods for accurately machining hard materials, and the electrode can be machined to any shape.
All an EDM does it jump a spark from the electrode to the work piece and erode a small amount of material with every spark, eventually replicating the shape of the electrode. It's one of the only methods for accurately machining hard materials, and the electrode can be machined to any shape.
I think I'm familiar with that technology. 30 years ago, in USSR we had a machine called: "High Frequency Current" that worked as you described only the whole process was done while submerged in running oil. The only disadvantage of using that machine was: Vary rough surface that had to be drilled to be smooth again. And if the base material was made out of high carbon steel - the rough surface also could get hardened. But 304 SS does not have that problem. That machine was a size of Ford F150 and the electrode had to be much thinner then the hole. It must have gone a long was since then, because in this case your electrode has to be like a sawing needle to burn 2mm hole and leave a little bit for drilling. Amazing.
Is this a same technology?
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I don't know if it's the same technology, but it sounds like one heck of a lot of trouble to go through for a Fogger, even a Big Fogger.
Sounds like it, but it's come a LONG way since then. The electrode can be as little as .002" smaller than the required size/shape, and the surface finish can be a dull shine, which takes an extremely long time to achieve with all kinds of special requirements like ultra clean oil, and special electrode material which would have to be polished before hand. (rarely used technology, but you get the idea) For the most part you would make your electrode .010" small to allow for ample particle flush, and simply increase the electrical power and spark-gap for roughing, or decrease the electrical power and spark-gap for finishing. (obviously, most of this is just keystrokes on the control panel: The CNC does the rest)
Also, the surface hardness you speak of is almost a thing of the past. There is technically some surface hardening of the work piece, but it's so shallow, it's almost negligible. For instance, following the finished electrical conditions on most jobs, the EDM "glaze" that remains (usually a frosted surface finish similar to a fine bead blasted finish) can be removed with no more than 320grit sand paper or equivalent polishing stones.
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Nah, we have round electrodes ready to go for something like this. Just stick it in the machine, eye-ball it in the center of the hole, set a ball park depth, and fire it up. Most likely the broken drill bit with fall apart before it reaches the bottom. No, it won't be cost-effective, but we can't just throw the thing in the garbage, LOL!
I'll definitely keep you in mind if my fussing and fretting with it doesn't work out. I'm a cheapskate and hate to waste anything I can possibly avoid wasting.
Man that sucks! If all else fails and ur fogger is black you can buy the base on ebay for 12.99 with free shipping and it has the updated http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/171442839072?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Thanks for the link, but it appears to be broken, the link that is. The Fogger in question is stainless although I really wouldn't care if the base was black. Now pink would be a no-no.
Surly if you can fuse paper clips with your unit it will do the same with a 3mm drill bit shank, better still go the whole hog and use a ground down 2mm as an electrode insulate sides rest it on top connect to a welder and a quick zap! ever had an electrode stick when welding? same principle.
I have a serious love/hate relationship with this atty.
Love the vape, flavor and airflow. Hate the build. God, it's a real PITA.
Love the vape, flavor and airflow. Hate the build. God, it's a real PITA.
Sorry thats the first time i have tried to post a link and i dont know why it doesnt work but anyways i sure you could find it on ebay if it gets to that point.
You typed "http://" two times in your link, that's why it didn't work.
Here, it works now:
Big Fogger V4 Black Bottom Only 510 Connector Corrected Threads 26650 RBA RDA | eBay
And that son of a gun is using my video
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