Fogger V4!!

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Tbev

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I live in the desert and even when it's cold, every once in a while my fogger spills. I think it just happens sometimes, every time is fine afterwards, the best guess I have is that prior to the leak occurring i/ we took some hard draws and sucked a wick out of place. And after a few normal pulls it returns to where it should be... I also run my wicks / builds just above the leaking point....
 

awsum140

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OK, progress report on me and getting a V4.1 to perform. I've been fooling with coil resistance, low on the deck, up off the deck, micro coils and helical coils. Right now I'm running at 1.5 ohms with 32 gauge helical coils. Instant heat. They're up off the deck. I've played with the wicks, cellulose, after each tankful and think I finally got it right this time. I'm using it on a Vamo V2 in voltage mode with stacked 18350s and running 4.7 volts, or about 15 watts, and the vapor output, flavor and hit are all excellent.

I think the key, for me, was getting a minimal amount of wick in the channels. When I redid it today I trimmed and trimmed, a tiny bit at a time, until just a tiny amount of wick actually penetrated the channels. There was a little bit of a leak when it was first filled and on the Vamo, but that seems to have stopped. I did tighten the top cap just a little tighter and that may have curd the leak, I'm not sure though.

I will say that getting everything "just right" is a big PITA and takes a number of builds. Since this is my first RBA I'm not sure if that is expected with RBAs. I did install "cheese head" screws for the coils and I'm still waiting for SS flat washers to get here. The screws did help, but if I can install two washers per screw I think that will cure all the wire grabbing/coil pulling problems when installing the coils.
 

awsum140

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I had problems with 30ga as well. I end up holding the lead, after it's wrapped around the screw, with forceps and then tightening. Tuff to do with two leads on opposite sides so do one, remove it, do the second, then put the first one back in. The washers came in the mail this afternoon and I think they will fit without shorting to the chimney with no problem.
 

Uncletattoowhat

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So, I have an idea for a project I may attempt. I have some old, bunk, crap clone RDAs sitting around that I bought when I first got into dripping that I haven’t touched since. I'm almost certain that they have removable posts with holes. The theory is, cut them down, thread them for the screw holes, and seeing if I can't make an easier installation for myself similar to a basic RDA. That IS my ONLY gripe with this tank is it literally takes me 15-20 min for a full coil/rewick because of my fat fingers and those damn tiny screws lol. I shall investigate tonight to see if it may be plausible and possibly attempt on my next recoil.

On that note, what size were those tiny screws again? :D
 

dmall

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OK, progress report on me and getting a V4.1 to perform. I've been fooling with coil resistance, low on the deck, up off the deck, micro coils and helical coils. Right now I'm running at 1.5 ohms with 32 gauge helical coils. Instant heat. They're up off the deck. I've played with the wicks, cellulose, after each tankful and think I finally got it right this time. I'm using it on a Vamo V2 in voltage mode with stacked 18350s and running 4.7 volts, or about 15 watts, and the vapor output, flavor and hit are all excellent.

I think the key, for me, was getting a minimal amount of wick in the channels. When I redid it today I trimmed and trimmed, a tiny bit at a time, until just a tiny amount of wick actually penetrated the channels. There was a little bit of a leak when it was first filled and on the Vamo, but that seems to have stopped. I did tighten the top cap just a little tighter and that may have curd the leak, I'm not sure though.

I will say that getting everything "just right" is a big PITA and takes a number of builds. Since this is my first RBA I'm not sure if that is expected with RBAs. I did install "cheese head" screws for the coils and I'm still waiting for SS flat washers to get here. The screws did help, but if I can install two washers per screw I think that will cure all the wire grabbing/coil pulling problems when installing the coils.

Just got my 4.1 (4.4) it has a small deck and it doesn't have 4.1 on the chamber, anyway, I haven't tried to coil and wick it yet, I've read thru this thread and still don't understand "cheesehead screws". Please help me out, I understand the screws in the earlier versions lost there coating and I want to be sure that doesn't happen to me.
 

awsum140

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OK. The last thing I ever expected was to be posting advice for the Fogger V4.1, but vaping is a strange world.

The "cheese head" screws have a bigger head than the screws that come in the Fogger. It makes it easier to "capture" the wires when building. The ones I have I got off of Amazon and are "M1.6-.35 X 4 SL Cheese MS S/S". Which translates to the diameter, pitch, length, machine screw and stainless steel. The washers I ordered are also stainless steel and I got those off of eBay from England. Oddly enough, shipping time was about the same for both, go figure. The shipping on Amazon was more than the shipping from England, another "go figure".
 

bsoplinger

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Just got my 4.1 (4.4) it has a small deck and it doesn't have 4.1 on the chamber, anyway, I haven't tried to coil and wick it yet, I've read thru this thread and still don't understand "cheesehead screws". Please help me out, I understand the screws in the earlier versions lost there coating and I want to be sure that doesn't happen to me.
I too just purchased from the eBay link and got a V4.1 that doesn't have the 4.1 marking on the chimney. Even if I didn't previously own a first release, I could tell this is the latest version because of the deck and juice hole. They are completely different between what we're calling V4.1 and V4.4 even if the deck size is the same.

Not only do cheesehead screws have a larger head, which makes them easier to screw and harder to strip, they have a very flat bottom compared to a typical screw. Which is much better for capturing wire underneath.
Oddly enough, shipping time was about the same for both, go figure. The shipping on Amazon was more than the shipping from England, another "go figure".
Its not unusual for sellers to increase profit by attempting to overcharge on shipping. Used to happen on eBay a lot too, but savvy buyers chose to purchase from those who charged real cost for shipping and it happens less often now. Also the typical eBay seller is a single person instead of a corporation who's shipping department is designed to be shipping to commercial customers where shipping is just another cost of doing business.

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fcreeves

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I just did the single wire vertical build on the 4.1 (time consuming) and the stock screw isn't an issue with a single wire as it was just a wrap around the positive. It was worth the time...but vapor production decreased some, but still a stellar vape.

I just bookmarked the screws in case I rebuild...but I'm holding out for the Orchids. Got 2 of the FastTech copper quartz kits and the standard quartz kit as well for preparation of Orchids. If they don't produce, I'm ordering the screws and a copper fogger, hopefully there will be more vendors.

Also, I got an email from Yiloong this morning with Foggers now offered in all sorts of colors...ironically FastTech got more v4 clones in today as well.

Sent from my Highly Modified HTC One via Tapatalk
 

dmall

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OK. The last thing I ever expected was to be posting advice for the Fogger V4.1, but vaping is a strange world.

The "cheese head" screws have a bigger head than the screws that come in the Fogger. It makes it easier to "capture" the wires when building. The ones I have I got off of Amazon and are "M1.6-.35 X 4 SL Cheese MS S/S". Which translates to the diameter, pitch, length, machine screw and stainless steel. The washers I ordered are also stainless steel and I got those off of eBay from England. Oddly enough, shipping time was about the same for both, go figure. The shipping on Amazon was more than the shipping from England, another "go figure".

Thx so much, I haven't touched it yet because I was in a scuba diving accident in the middle of May, in ICU, touch and go; but you can't kill bad grass! Anyway my fine motor function is not quite back. I'm gonna give it a try though!
 

fcreeves

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Thx so much, I haven't touched it yet because I was in a scuba diving accident in the middle of May, in ICU, touch and go; but you can't kill bad grass! Anyway my fine motor function is not quite back. I'm gonna give it a try though!

Ouch, sorry to hear that. If you can't get it done, and if you are in the US, I'll part with a 4.3 pre-built and wick'd with rayon. Just send it back when you are better. PM me if need be.

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awsum140

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It isn't as much the small size of the screws for me, it's the simple fact that when you tighten a screw with a wire under the head friction between the two grabs the wire and pulls on the wire. That happens with house wiring, 14 ga and heavier, as well. It's not a problem there but with the small sizes involved here, even 28 ga is light weight compared to 14 ga, it plays havoc with everything. To add to the problem when two wires are under the same screw they get pulled differently.

I still can't figure out why a couple of washers couldn't be INCLUDED by Yi Loong under those screws. For the price of the device versus the added cost of four 1.6mm SS washers, well under one penny in bulk, it would make a lot of difference whether you're an experienced or first time builder.

I'll be installing washers later today, probably, once I finish the current tank full and I'll post to let everyone know how it works out. That'll mean yet another complete rebuild but what the heck.
 

fcreeves

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LOL...Fogger frustration. They make you earn the superior vape!

One little tip, you may know, is to trap your wire around the left side of screw and wrap right as it goes with the tightening.

Hope that helps someone reading this. Most experienced coilers here probably know this.

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fcreeves

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Also known as wrapping clockwise. If you don't do that the screw will basically remove the wire as it's tightened.

It's not necessary with all atty's when you have a large screw and can pull wire with needle nose and tighten, but it's pretty much necessary with me & the Fogger when removing the neg post and using the big screw in its place as there is just no room...that 4.4 vert build really took a lot longer than the 4.3.

4.3 below

http://imgur.com/a/ofXRi

Note: I spent a lot more time on wicking the base of coil on the 4.4 with thin strands of rayon to minimize air hole leakage. It was a successful endeavor. Worth the time.

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fcreeves

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