Fogger V4!!
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I don't have any experience with that material. Like most polymers, as long as you don't heat it too much, you should be OK, right!?!
If only we had a mod that has temperature protection so we can be sure we won't melt our insulators 
Fogger question
I always get a few dry hits shortly after I refill my Foggers. I'm assuming it's because the pressure in the tank hasn't done it's thing, because a few strong primer puffs usually gets it going. It's not that big of a deal if I remember to hit it hard, but most of the time I don't, and I scorch my frickin' wicks! (thankfully, Rayon usually clears up) I'm wondering if it's because I've modified the air flow so much, or if all V4s-5s do this.
I always get a few dry hits shortly after I refill my Foggers. I'm assuming it's because the pressure in the tank hasn't done it's thing, because a few strong primer puffs usually gets it going. It's not that big of a deal if I remember to hit it hard, but most of the time I don't, and I scorch my frickin' wicks! (thankfully, Rayon usually clears up) I'm wondering if it's because I've modified the air flow so much, or if all V4s-5s do this.
I notice the first hit after a refill is a little weaker, but not all that different. I've only ventured out to 1/16" on the air holes, so that may, indeed, be the culprit.
My BCCs used to do this, but none of my other RTAs seem to have this problem. I'm pretty sure it doesn't happen if I don't fill them completely (leave a decent size bubble in the tank) But I like to fill my tanks completely.
Fogger V4.3 30 Gauge NI200 with welded 26 Gauge NI200 leads and Rayon (double insertion) wicks.
About a week and a half into owning it, I friggin love this tank! This 4.4 is perfect for the kayfun style of wicking, zero leaks still, tons of juice and vapor even on my lowly vamo. Just ordered a sigelei 100w, let the games begin!
I have an iPV2 and have yet to find a need to go over 30 watts. I have a Fogger 4.1 (4.4) on a VTR, a Vamo V2 and an iStick. They all knock the socks off anything else I've used on them.
More on the Big Fogger replacement base. I did make a trip to the hardware store today and have come to the conclusion that the replacement base has bad threading in the fill screw hole. It seems to be M3-20 thread and only the last two threads work. I'll see if the seller will replace it. This is getting old already!
More on the Big Fogger replacement base. I did make a trip to the hardware store today and have come to the conclusion that the replacement base has bad threading in the fill screw hole. It seems to be M3-20 thread and only the last two threads work. I'll see if the seller will replace it. This is getting old already!
Just FYI: In Metric system, you don't count number of threads per inch, you measure a distance between two nearest threads. This is how the peach of the thread is determined. M3-20 is incorrect. M3 - 0.5 is right. Most hardware stores will carry Metric Taps M3 -0.5 and up. I would suggest to stay away from Harbor Freight. Trying to tap a thread in Stainless Steel with a Tap from Harbor Freight is asking for trouble. IMHO
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Ya know, I have single coiled mine for awhile now and it was good at first but a leaky leaky biotch.
I'm going back to duals with like a 10 wrapper using 28g...mildly tucked wicks...very mild...
Glad I che3cked in...LOVE the garage door spring comment. Gotta good chuckle on that one
I'm going back to duals with like a 10 wrapper using 28g...mildly tucked wicks...very mild...
Glad I che3cked in...LOVE the garage door spring comment. Gotta good chuckle on that one
Other then this guy doesn't know what an inch is, it is a pretty good instructional video on Fogger 5.0
I'm waiting to hear from the seller on Flea Bay before I even think about taping that hole. Harbor Freight might be good for some light use stuff, but I agree regarding taps, dies, bits or anything you expect to use hard. Taping that hole then presents the problem of finding a screw with the right size head or drilling out the recess for the screw head. Both taping and drilling need a "bottoming" tool to do the job right. I don't think it's worth that much effort, especially without a drill press, at the very least, to work with.
Being that it's just a fill hole, you could probably get away with just running the M3 tap through the hole to clean up the threads that are in there. All it has to do is stay in place and pinch the o'ring, so it wouldn't take much thread engagement to do that. Of course this is assuming there are some threads left in there to begin with.
If I had an M3 tap, and it was a bottoming tap, I don't think it would help. I can push a long M3 screw almost all the way in then thread, maybe, two turns. I don't think a re-tap at the same size would do anything and getting the screw length "just right" would be a royal pain in the ...., just a hair too long or short an it's wasted time.
Well that sucks. A 5-40 tap would be my next suggestion...or just send the damn thing back!
I'm waiting for the seller's response so I can send it back. It ain't worth all that much bother, although I do miss my Big Fogger.
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