Just a tiny bit of time; on break. Let me go fetch what I wrote in another thread today. I once thought I preferred the hole in cap but there can be a lot of fiddle with how the coil is positioned, where the cap hole is, in relation to where coil is, and how you hold your REO to vape, depending partly on which finger you use to fire button. Cap hole RBAs are not very forgiving if you have hole on downside and you over squonk..... juice out the hole and dripping into well and/or onto you. Back in a sec.
Feisty Alice
{edit} and where coil is in relation to bottom air intake to air supply in holeless caps.
Here's what I wrote....
"Yes, Killer 705 is my absolute favorite. I have or have had Reomizers, ERAs, Hornets, A7s, A7 Minis, Surfaces, and Vision Eternity and several RBA tanks, some Genesis High End/High Dollar.
Few things that make Killer/eBaron superior to ME:
-The ceramic cup - hard to beat the flavor
-The non resistance wire - I mean how hard is it to twist a couple pieces of NR wire onto pre ohm measured length of resistance before making coil???!!! And not having to rebuild a coil if ohms are not what you want because you use cheap multimeter and place one point on one end, after doing one end of NR attachment, and then move the other point of mm along the R wire to the point of exact ohm you want for coil and attach the NR wire there. No need for fancy join beads or crimping or soldering.
-NR Wire - A major weak point in RBAs that use post holes with screws to tighten down on R wire is that the R wire becomes weaker and weaker over time from heat applied to it while being smushed by screw. That's one major thing that kills coils that break at point where screw smushes down on wire. This weakness does not exist for the ceramic cup using NR wire.
-Weakness of post design - if you want to do a good coil torching to clean coil back to "new" and silica wick back to white if you do this on a post design you WILL eventually melt the positive post insulator!!!! Good luck locating a post insulator or even at all.
-Ceramic cup for Killer and its big brother eBaron are common CE2 cups easily obtained from many vendors or vapers' stash boxes. I have several boxes of CE2 left over from my tank modding days in 2010; perfect fit
The Killer is tiny and has loads of room to spare in smallest catch cup or well. It blind squonks perfectly. It is precision made and built tough like a REO. Very non fussy look and simple lines.
I was into week five with original stock coil wick when weakest point, the NR wire that comes out and makes contact with screw threads on outside of base, the threads that accept the tiny screw on cap, finally broke from so much screwing cap on and off every single day. My juice gunks up any and all coils. I dryburn daily and give the whole thing a good torching every couple days. This brings coil back to virtually new, silica wick to bright white, and ceramic cup to bright white. I can dryburn and/or torch faster than anyone can build a coil and wick and install it and only tool I need is inexpensive chef torch if torching. Okay a small part of paper towel to first soak up excess juice in wick.
Much more to say but out of time 3 hours ago.
Did I mention I ordered another Killer and first eBaron Spiral (for larger REOs) from Greece? They are en route now. Main reason I'm keeping my anodized colors Hornet is they are so cute on all our colored anodized Mini REOs. That's #4 Killer.
Killer was designed for 510 carto tanks so if you enjoy using a tank you can use your killer and never have to buy cartos again and punch them if you get non pre punched cartos.
Oh yeah, you always run the risk of burning any o-ring, on most RBAs, that either holds the press on cap on and/or prevents leaking!!!!!
And people believe Killers and eBarons are complicated or fiddly. These beliefs are only that; just beliefs and not based on reality. ( Will qualify this statement to say that non fiddly applies only to using as BF RBA or Dripper and not to Killer's use in carto tank.)
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