Frustrated with my Reo

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pianoguy

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Is the center post an adjustable screw on the A7? If so, maybe you can make it solid the way I did with another rba. I removed the center post screw, then inserted a thin piece of kanthal wire into the hole, then re-inserted the screw and forced it to start threading. The piece of kanthal took up all the slop and the center pin doesn't move unless I want it to.
 

JC Okie

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I was thrilled with the Reomizer 1.0 so I got a second one. I still need a third, so I may wait for a Reomizer 2.0.

I was gifted an A7 and you guys have me worried about using it now????

You should be worried. If you already have RBAs that work, and you do, why tempt fate? It has a bad center post, and unless you play with it, tweak it, FIX it, it'll short out your REO. If I were you (and, of course, I'm not.... :)) I'd forget the A7 and stick with the Reomizer. It's not worth the risk (IMHO) when you already have BETTER RBAs you can use.

I know there are a few on here who love the A7s.....but I'm not one of them.

Jan
 

dchest02

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I should probably invest in a cheap multimeter as well. All I have been using is a madvapes ohm meter, and while it has alerted me to some misbehaving coils, it sounds like I need to up my game a little. Good thing Harbor Freight is coming to my town soon. Then I will have to figure out how that works. I am a machinist by trade so I think I will be able to handle it.
 

CATastrophe

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dchesto2, a multimeter is a good investment of a couple bucks to protect a $100+ mod. More than once I got carts or atties with a protruding center post. That's why it's important to visually give them a once over before using. Also, I always metered new carts and atties because more than once I found what they were marked was not accurate.

A multimeter is a vaper's friend. :)

An ounce of prevention and all that....
 

Commie

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I was thrilled with the Reomizer 1.0 so I got a second one. I still need a third, so I may wait for a Reomizer 2.0.

I was gifted an A7 and you guys have me worried about using it now????

I would say that A7's only advantage over Reomizer 1.0 is its durability. So, if I were you, I would keep using your reomizers if they work, and keep A7 as a backup in your tackle box.

It's not a bad atomizer. I love mine. But it has to be fixed first. For the price, I think it's fair :) Though for a lot of people the "price" tends to include a few spare Reo springs, and that's less than fair.
 

FeistyAlice

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The KISS fix using two little slices of carto condom to stabilize the A7 center pin is too easy to not do. If a person is not willing to take a few minutes to do it I don't understand how s/he would then be willing to spend much more time building a coil????? And anyone who can't manage to do the condom fix certainly should be unable to build and attach a coil. Has anyone had a short from tested A7 using the condom fix?

Feisty Alice
 

FeistyAlice

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All this negative talk about A7'sis going to make it more difficult for me to sell mine when they get here shhhh I decided I don't want them. More to do with the air flow than anything.

Is it too airy? They are too airy for me. Simple fix is round toothpick point shoved into one hole.

Feisty Alice
 

wongster360

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I had a spare O-ring from one of my atty's (I have no idea which) it fits the catch cup of my VVG perfectly. It keeps juice from leaking all of the place when I over squonk, but more importantly acts as a cushion for my ERA and keeps me from over tightening it. I already had to send my VVG in once to have Rob repair it from over tightening my atty and don't want to have to do that again. :) it's a fairly thick O-ring.

epa3equr.jpg



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FeistyAlice

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No too tight :lol: I like airy drill all my attys out

Reomizer and A7 way too airy for me. A7 Mini a little tighter that is just ok for me and Surface, A7 Mini is clone of it, is a litte tighter still. I sold my 2 Reomizers for almost give away to a beloved REOnaut. Sold 2 x ERA 1.5 for decent price to Reonaut and kept the 2 x ver 1.0 that do well as long as #47 o-ring is used on thread post to keep it from being screwed in too far and breaking atty connector gasket. I'll use them again some day but past month the Killers have been just too great and way to fiddleless.

Feisty Alice

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Commie

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Everyone seems to like Killers. How are they not fiddly? I'm not arguing, just wondering.

I don't have any of the greek atties. They all seem to use the same concept of ceramic cup, silica wick, and resistance/no-resistance wire. That seems like a lot of trouble to me, with very little flexibility. By flexibility, I mean different materials, size and shapes for wicks, distance from air holes, diameters of coils, etc.

Do they really produce that awesome of a vape?
 

FeistyAlice

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Just a tiny bit of time; on break. Let me go fetch what I wrote in another thread today. I once thought I preferred the hole in cap but there can be a lot of fiddle with how the coil is positioned, where the cap hole is, in relation to where coil is, and how you hold your REO to vape, depending partly on which finger you use to fire button. Cap hole RBAs are not very forgiving if you have hole on downside and you over squonk..... juice out the hole and dripping into well and/or onto you. Back in a sec.

Feisty Alice

{edit} and where coil is in relation to bottom air intake to air supply in holeless caps.

Here's what I wrote....

"Yes, Killer 705 is my absolute favorite. I have or have had Reomizers, ERAs, Hornets, A7s, A7 Minis, Surfaces, and Vision Eternity and several RBA tanks, some Genesis High End/High Dollar.

Few things that make Killer/eBaron superior to ME:

-The ceramic cup - hard to beat the flavor
-The non resistance wire - I mean how hard is it to twist a couple pieces of NR wire onto pre ohm measured length of resistance before making coil???!!! And not having to rebuild a coil if ohms are not what you want because you use cheap multimeter and place one point on one end, after doing one end of NR attachment, and then move the other point of mm along the R wire to the point of exact ohm you want for coil and attach the NR wire there. No need for fancy join beads or crimping or soldering.
-NR Wire - A major weak point in RBAs that use post holes with screws to tighten down on R wire is that the R wire becomes weaker and weaker over time from heat applied to it while being smushed by screw. That's one major thing that kills coils that break at point where screw smushes down on wire. This weakness does not exist for the ceramic cup using NR wire.
-Weakness of post design - if you want to do a good coil torching to clean coil back to "new" and silica wick back to white if you do this on a post design you WILL eventually melt the positive post insulator!!!! Good luck locating a post insulator or even at all.
-Ceramic cup for Killer and its big brother eBaron are common CE2 cups easily obtained from many vendors or vapers' stash boxes. I have several boxes of CE2 left over from my tank modding days in 2010; perfect fit

The Killer is tiny and has loads of room to spare in smallest catch cup or well. It blind squonks perfectly. It is precision made and built tough like a REO. Very non fussy look and simple lines.

I was into week five with original stock coil wick when weakest point, the NR wire that comes out and makes contact with screw threads on outside of base, the threads that accept the tiny screw on cap, finally broke from so much screwing cap on and off every single day. My juice gunks up any and all coils. I dryburn daily and give the whole thing a good torching every couple days. This brings coil back to virtually new, silica wick to bright white, and ceramic cup to bright white. I can dryburn and/or torch faster than anyone can build a coil and wick and install it and only tool I need is inexpensive chef torch if torching. Okay a small part of paper towel to first soak up excess juice in wick.

Much more to say but out of time 3 hours ago.

Did I mention I ordered another Killer and first eBaron Spiral (for larger REOs) from Greece? They are en route now. Main reason I'm keeping my anodized colors Hornet is they are so cute on all our colored anodized Mini REOs. That's #4 Killer.

Killer was designed for 510 carto tanks so if you enjoy using a tank you can use your killer and never have to buy cartos again and punch them if you get non pre punched cartos.

Oh yeah, you always run the risk of burning any o-ring, on most RBAs, that either holds the press on cap on and/or prevents leaking!!!!!

And people believe Killers and eBarons are complicated or fiddly. These beliefs are only that; just beliefs and not based on reality. ( Will qualify this statement to say that non fiddly applies only to using as BF RBA or Dripper and not to Killer's use in carto tank.)

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