G120 Carto: plugin coil and wick

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Kelemvor

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This is only to show a tiny bit of what's being developed on the german ERF board,

The G120 has a long time fanbase here. credits go to the whole ERF whose community is really something special. none of the ideas were mine, i only build it after the explanations on ERF.

Where to begin ? a used G120 Carto:

web_G120_Plug001.jpg




Rip it apart with small pliers, so we have access to the atomizer jar. and use a 1.5mm drill
to widen the small holes where the original wire went through and drop wire ferrules into them (1.5mm)

web_G120_Plug002.jpg
web_G120_Plug003.jpg
web_G120_Plug004.jpg


After that we fold the blank wires inside the brown plug part of the G120,
to have a bit more diameter wire for the crimping, and put shrinking tube over it ( mine are a bit to large, but i had no time to get smaller ones ).
web_G120_Plug006.jpg


Now we have to insert the wires into the ferrules and crimp them ( some may like to solder instead ).


web_G120_Plug007.jpg


Now we slide the shrinking tubes over the ferrules and use a hair dryer to shrink them.

web_G120_Plug008.jpg
web_G120_Plug009.jpg


The tricky part now is to bend the ferrules in so they need not much space, i failed on this one, still its usable, but the cart should be cut 2mm in height or the coil gets too close to the filler and may burn it.

web_G120_Plug010.jpg


The atomizer jar should have gone deeper than on this picture, space for improvement, but i just wanted to show the basics :)

Next we need to make a coil and wick, and get both together.

8 cm oven door rope, 4cm 0.16mm nichrome wire ( 3cm effective 2 Ohm is used after all) and ~1mm ferrules.
web_G120_Plug011.jpg


web_G120_Plug012.jpg
web_G120_Plug013.jpg
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The oven fibre should be rinsed at least in hot water, some put them into an oven at 250°C for 20 minutes before use. before assembling i would make them wet with water, this really helps.

I didn't know how to describe this procedure, other than folding the rope halfway and starting to wrap the nichrome wire around it.

From here on everyone will have to find his own way to make the perfect coil, because
everyone has other needs for the coil. the 2ohm G120 is a very weak version, most people tend to 15-1.7 ohm.

The coil should not be wrapped around the fibre to tight, and not to loose. this is really a whole new playfield to get best results. before use, fill the old cart and put a few drops of liquid directly on the fibres.

Assembling the unit, we have to make sure the fibres don't block the airchannel of the cart.

I hope this little post helps some to build their own plug'nplay atomizer,
you can drop it back in the old brownish shell or into an aluminium tube like its build in germany ( its called Nubsi btw ). there are dozen ways to replace the plastic tubing, but that would go to far for now.

Happy vaping

web_P1020041+1.jpg


PS: i don't know where in the us you may get the coil and oven fibre, but i think i read about it here already somewhere. maybe someone can help out with that.

PPS: i am sure i got a few words wrong, don't throw stones, please :vapor:

last PS: thanx to AlexTM for some spellchecking
 
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Vaporer

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Great post!

Where you used the tubes is where I would use the gold IC sockets and solder the leads to the base of them. Then I'd wrap a new coil and solder or crimp those ends in the IC pin connectors holes in the top.
The pins fit into each other. The bottom of the IC pin plugs nicely into the top of the same pin. So a 16pin IC socket gives you 8 pairs.
 

Vaporer

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The nichrome wire and silica fiber can be purchased in the USA here:
1/2" Silica rope (Just unbraid it)
McMaster-Carr

Nichrome wire: 36ga (20ohm per ft) $2 for 10' free shipping from:
Nichrome Wire

I went and drilled my 1st and well used mouthpiece. I used a drill just under thread size of the DSE701 mouthpiece and then slowly spun a kitchen knife in the hole so I had to force it to thread. Works like a charm. You can hold the G120 by the mouthpiece with no problems.
I am going to go ahead and drill the other one. The auto switch works well too.
It eased the draw a bit which I was actually happy with.

With the info from here and the other thread no worries abt rebuilding this jewel.
 

four2109

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Thanks for posting this! Even the screw method is better than trying to recreate a chinese atty. Those videos you posted are great. Off topic, can you reccomend a link to a good online German music radio station? I was in Kaiserslautern in the 80's and miss it dearly.
Has anyone ever figured out what the "hair looking" stuff is? Is it just another form of silica rope?
Ha, I think I have some of those crimp connectors.. thanks, avionics tech friend.... never knew what to do with them but I'm sure I didn't pitch them!
 

hova

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almost sure its just the same silica that is unbraided. this probably happens when you put it into the oven , it resumes its shape ?

i love the look of this , but what is the tube at the bottom , it looks like you plug it into a 1/4" fuel line....

o_O im german btw , my auto shop used to be called "MIG" ... where you from anyways vapererererererererrrrr

-hov
 

Kelemvor

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Vaporer

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Well, they aren't for underwater use that's 4 sure.
Mine fell in water for abt 30 sec. Got it out, immediately pulled the cart off and shoke the tube as much as I could till ti seemed no more water coming out.
Ran the blow dryer into it with the LED end off too.
Warmed the toaster oven placed it in when it seemed to be a safe temp till it was coor and then sit it over a light in the heat overnight.
Next morning..dead. It wont charge and the atty is always on if plugged in.
Blew more through it. No go.
Put a piece of tubing in the charging end and tapped the guts out of the tube.
Comes out fairly easy. Battery, 14430 with and SMD LED on the end and a unit at the top, where the plug is. The bottom of the unit has a small rectangular slit in it for air intake with 3 wires going in. A "+ & =" for the battery and 1 lead to trip the LED.

Looks like the circuit shorted to 'always on". All I can do is at this point is go in from the bottom and see if anything can be done. If not, I can convert it to a manual with a switch and still have use from it since the cart/atty is so user friendly for repair.
I really liked the auto feature for a change and the GreenCig design is so nice abt protecting it during normal use from a flood that might do any damage.

So, it's off to http://www.rrvaporz.com/ to get a new one. Mitch is has decent prices and ships fast. I will have a replacement before vacation in a week!
If anyone wants pics, I'll do them and post when tore down.

Keep'em dry guys!
 

Vaporer

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Middle Southern Oh near the river....Like in the Portsmouth area. 100mi South of Columbus.
I live in a rural from there. If you find nowhere go abt 50mi. lol.

Changed out the mic in the sensor unit. Looked like it was gonna go at 1st, but no. The one installed was abt 35K. The known good one was over 200K. Appears the power connector is glued in from the top and the only way to get the circuit all the way out. So, will be working on that. I have other cheap auto disposables I could rob a circuit from and still save it or test the components on the original board. The markings arent usually good for a lookup to even identify SMD parts. Worth a shot though. Nothing to lose at this point.
 
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Vaporer

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I have quite a few auto batterys that the battery just now has a short time after a full charge with a good circuit. Sure, you can make a new circuit, but when you have so many already made, normally smaller than you can make yourself, just as easy to rob & swap.
I finally got that darn black power connector out. Its really glued in tight. I ended up splitting the housing on one side so I could work my way around it and then it finally popped out. It will be easy to replace and I'll have my G120 back again!
I'll probably do pics and a thread on it as it is expensive and I havent seen that part tore down in any posting.

Its not considered a disposable. It is expensive IMO. I got mine on a sale from www.rrvaporz.com otherwise I wouldn't own one yet. I have a hard time paying that kinda $ for abt any unit. The cigar itself is easily rechargeable and appears to be well built. It gets good reviews. The cartomizer type top is easy to redo the coil and is easier yet if using Kelemvors quick change mod. I plan to do mine using the IC sockets and I can then change a bad coil in less than a couple mins with no tools so having a few extra made up is a snap.

I'm a sucker for the cheap disposables, ecigs and cigars, and then make them rechargeable and rebuild-able. Chris at www.myfreedomsmokes.com has theirs on sale till July 9th, the disposeables at 40% off with the coupon code Smoke . That makes the ecigs abt $6 and the cigars abt $12. Shipping will be abt $6. So for abt $40 you get 4 and I have that kind already and know that I can pop the bottom cap off and slide all the guts right out. Then you can easily add a charging connector and replace the coil if needed.
 

Vaporer

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Chris has great prices on abt everything, especially when he has a sale. There is a code for juices now too. Its Heat or Tobacco depending on the juice.
The stogies are the ecigars I'm referring to. You pop the bottom cap off and everything slides out the bottom.

That pic is showing a box of 5. Its $19.95 ea. The code knocks it down to $11.97ea and the ecigs to $5.97ea. Then my shipping was $5.95 and I got 4 of each. That will last me a long time for the price. I even added the DSE701 mouthpiece like is shown here for the G120.
 

Vaporer

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Here is what I was referring to using the IC sockets for and easy plug replacement atty coil. This is a G120 Cigar carto.
1st I drilled the original holes in the clear removable cup a bit larger for the IC pin dia middle, inserted and soldered the power leads to the bottom. Then put the cup into back in. Now you can easily see the quick change feature. I made a new coil using the same pins from the same IC socket and soldered the nichrome in the holes. These could be crimped if you desired. If you look close I cut part of the coil pins top off for a lower profile. This just assures the coil wont hit the filler material and burn it. There is a high ledge on part of the cup. The coil should be below this. You can leave the pin full length and just recess the filler a little. You lose very little capacity doing this and its worth it IMO to gain the quick change feature.

Another important thing that should be noticed is the wick material itself. This was a well used wick that was used for rebuilding. Notice the white area in the center. This is where the original coil wire was wrapped and was heavily carboned. I washed it and removed the carbon with my finger nail while rinsing. The important thing to realize is that it is not burnt at all! All of the carbon came from burnt juice. This material is stiffer than the silica rope as it wants to "spring" back straight. The silica is more "mushier" for lack of a better description. Although it should still work fine. The factory material reminds me more of a fiberglass. No, the insulation type used in homes that produces the tiny harmful dust like pieces. I have a piece of fiberglass woven cloth used for repairing boats and such and it looks very similar with the same characteristics.

Hope this helps with some ideas.

G120socketatty.jpg
 
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