No idea, or I have no comment. The amount of detail you provided is severely lacking, BUT your TCR experimenting has given me two GREAT chuckles today. Material itself has a TCR, not what your resistance is, for one, and those Geekvape values make no sense to me.
My first vape was a Hero 2 I believe. It had the full screen and 2x 18650. Not much different from the L200 Aegis that I have now. I switched to a smaller Z Nano tank so that I could run a lower watt Kanthal Geekvape B series coil 0.6Ω, 15~25W. I’m vaping Finest brand salt Nic juice at around 22 watts on VW mode or at the settings in my previous picture on TCR mode. As far as I can tell, Watts controls the warm up time and TCR (T on screen) controls the temp at which the coil plateaus. With the Kanthal coil this warmup time does not seem to be an issue and its under 2 seconds with the settings I tried. After experimenting with the Motar on TCR mode, setting it for my regular vape juice with the Z Nano was easy. I just turned it way down on everything the first time I attached the Nano and forgot to switch back to VW mode before I hit it. I just settled on the settings you see and it’s a better hit than 22.5 watts.
For over 2 years I never really experimented with my settings. I let the guy at the vape store pick my vape, the mod, the settings. If something was wrong I let them fix it (switch to Z Nano tank for low watt salt nic) anyway they wanted. So, please forgive my ignorance. I learned as much as I could in a very short time.
A few months ago I ordered the Longmada Motar 1 Quartz coil-less Wax Atomizer after seeing my neighbors’ girlfriend screwing one onto my mod. It got me interested in experimenting with my Mod.
I spent a few weeks searching the internet for any information I could find about using a quartz or ceramic heater. Using a bucket or a pan, the Motar 1 is a bucket, I guess. The information was very limited. So, without knowing what the hell I was doing I just started experimenting. I am at this moment waiting for a chance to go pick up my mail where 5 new coils for the Motar 1 and a complete set of the Motar 2 and 3 with Longmada mods are waiting for me. I have very low expectations for the mods. If what I read online is correct. the Motar 2 mod has no settings to change and the Motar 3 has only 3 or 4 different temps, controlled by one button and uses colored lights to tell you which temp setting you are on. But I have a friend who wants no bull to deal with while working out his medical card at the dispensary.
The Longmada Motar 1. This crackpipe looking glass thing was rated by the manufacturer at 25-40watts @ 0.4 ohms. When I first screwed it on my Mod the ohms were rated @ 0.33 and 0.34 for 2 different “coils” by my Aegis L200. I started by just running in variable watts mode as I had not found any useful information about running quartz on TCR yet. I started at 15 watts and just increased a couple degrees at a time until the warmup time was around 10 seconds (my shut off timer) and ended up between 28 and 30 watts. I noticed that the ohms would increase to 0.6 after being heated up and used for a couple weeks if I forgot to lock the ohms while still cold. ALWAYS lock the ohms while still at room temp. I’ll get more exact numbers when my new gear arrives. Also, Always select New when attaching these devices. The ohms sensor on the L200 sets the starting point for all the other settings.
When I finally decided to try TCR mode I started with my Watts @ 10 (5-200), T @ 50 (0-5000) and my temp at 142 Celsius (100c – 350c?). I expected my oil to liquify at around 142c and to begin vaporizing before reaching 180c and I wanted to avoid going over 220c. but I knew from what I read online that my temp setting would not be the actual temp until the other settings were correct. So, I have a desired temp, a watt value (speed of temp increase + final temp), and a T value (final temp and leveling of final temp). Very rough parameters to work with. If this works, in the end I should be able to set my temp at what ever I want and maintain that temp for up to 1 minute or more.
I began adjusting the watts up 2 degrees at a time after a 20 sec burn just to make sure I wasn’t going to destroy the coil until I reached 18w. Then I began increasing the T value 25 at a time until I began melting at T 350. Now the temp is raised to 170 Celsius. Vaporization happened quickly after that. I should have raised the temp slower. I kept slowly raising the T value to 1125 which is where I had heavy vaporization. I then increased the watts until I had my 10 sec warm up time @ 28.5w which means everything has melted and just barely starting to vape. This was not in my opinion, but not yet in fact, the final temp. At this point everyone was smoking it and didn’t want to watch me play with my settings anymore. Once warmed up it didn’t cool off fast so there was not much of a warmup needed. It was passed around until empty and then I had to take it away to cool down.
I eventually readjusted my watts to 30 and my T to 950. Taking the watts to 35 was a bad idea even with the T at 300. The quartz began glowing like it did on VW mode when the Mod wasn’t manually pulsed. I need my setting to be idiot proof when I pass it around in case someone just holds it for the full 10 sec over and over.
I will keep better records next time which should be within the week if I’m lucky. Working 84 hours a week for a while. I’m exhausted. I’ll check my spelling, grammar and numbers for errors tomorrow at work. Hope this sparks your interest. I need help figuring out what these settings actually mean. A DNA or Dicodes expert should have far better insight than I. I look forward to it.
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The lowest you can set the TCR on a GeekVape mod is 010.
