I'm pretty sure that it is plastic that was painted blackThe fire button is actually metal? I thought it was just plastic.![]()
I'm pretty sure that it is plastic that was painted blackThe fire button is actually metal? I thought it was just plastic.![]()
For temperature control you’ll want Stainless Steel, Nickel or Titanium. Don’t think Geekvape sells compatible coils in any of those materials – at least nothing is stated on their website. And not familiar enough with the Aero tank to say if coils from other vendors are compatible.
You maybe stuck with Kanthal to which you will have to use Wattage mode.
I have a suggestion for GeekVape for if they make another Legend style tough mod.
Wrap the fire button in the rubber you use elsewhere on the device. Not only will it make the most sensitive part of this mod more shock absorbent, but will look nicer. My Legend is only 2 1/2 months old and the black paint is wearing off of the fire button. I've never had a fire button lose paint that fast, it's becoming an ugly silver color.
The fire button is actually metal? I thought it was just plastic.![]()
Hey, just signed up to the forum to get a quick answer on this. I just bought the Legend and am about to use the Aero Mesh tank that came with it. I'm just wondering what the correct settings would be for the 0.20 ohm Mesh coil? I prefer to use TC mode and typically set the temperature to about 290 degrees C but as the coil itself appears to be Kanthal which doesn't have a preset (I usually use Stainless Steel coils), I assume I have to set this one to TCR mode so my question really is what number to set this to? I'll be using the midway point in terms of wattage and the coil does say it works best between 60-80 watts so I'll go for 70 there. So yea, I just need to know the best TCR setting for this coil please? Thanks folks
Just noticed you changed your avatar, kind of messed me up briefly, I look at the avatar before looking for a name.The fire button is actually metal? I thought it was just plastic.![]()
Where did you find data on the IM1 and IM4 coil material? You list them as stainless, I can't find that. I found the that the IM1 was Kanthal and the IM4 was Ni80. This would mean the IM4 could be used in TC.Nah the coils for the Shield tank (which are also compatible with the Aero tank) IM1 and IM 4 are both Stainless Steel. Also both excellent coils by the way and they last ages (mine last 6 weeks plus in my old Aegis using the Shield tank).
How are those presented as PPM?Aero
Formaldehyde 83.4 ug/100 puffs at 40 watts
Acetaldehyde 5.15 ug/100 puffs at 40 watts
Alpha
Formaldehyde 34.5 ug/100 puffs at 80 watts
Cerberus
Formaldehyde 7.73 ug/100 puffs at 60 watts
Acetaldehyde 3.07 ug/100 puffs at 60 watts
ug = microgram
Sorry, I switch between the 2 of them from time to time.Just noticed you changed your avatar, kind of messed me up briefly, I look at the avatar before looking for a name.
How are those presented as PPM?
Where did you find data on the IM1 and IM4 coil material? You list them as stainless, I can't find that. I found the that the IM1 was Kanthal and the IM4 was Ni80. This would mean the IM4 could be used in TC.
The reference to stainless in the coil construction appears to be the coil housing. The coil wire in the IM1 is Kanthal and the coil wire in the IM4 is Ni80.
Data I found on the IM1 and IM4
- Aero IM1 Coil
- -Single vertical Kanthal coil
- -Resistance: 0.4Ω
- -Rated for 40W to 60W
- Aero IM4 Coil
- -Quadruple Ni80 coil
- -Resistance: 0.15Ω
- -Rated for 60W to 80W
- Aero X1 Mesh Coil
- -Kanthal mesh coil
- -Resistance: 0.2Ω
- -Rated for 30W to 90W
I would also think you could use Eleaf HW-1 SS316 coil
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Weight: 32g (1.13oz)
- Threaded Coil Design
- IM1 0.4Ω Kanthal (40-60W )
- IM4 0.15Ω NI80 (60-80W)
Thanks! Quote from OSHAFormaldehyde Aero tank
Let' see each puff had a volume of 55mL
55mL x 100 puffs = 5500mL
83.4 ug/100 puffs / 5500mL = 0.01516364 ug/mL
Pretty sure 1 ug/mL = 1 PPM
it's 4:30 AM here and I could way off based on sleep deprivation.
My best effort
PPM = 0.01516364
mg/m3 = 15.16
I've include the 3 test reports below.
This of course assumes I am correct in taking puff volume x # of puffs, etc... Not really my area.
I don't get too exact on the drawing. It will lose a lot being traced to leather, then cut on the lines vs where the blade happens to go, punched and burnished. If I don't have one that will work I'll be making a punch to make round grapes.
I'm wondering about thickness. The edges of the leather need to be about 1-2oz. This was 4-5oz. I was wondering how it would be to use 6-7oz or 8-9oz. The pillow effect would be better but fitting it would be harder and too thick the frame will mar it going on.
have to wiggle to get it in(no jokes please).
Link does not work. No permissions given.View media item 431611im surprised these ( as far as i have seen ) have not been mentioned