General battery question...

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Rocketman

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Willy made a TYPO.
What he meant to say was:
No ATTY will come on at 1.85 V.

The attys are in parallel. Two LR attys in parallel result in HALF THE RESISTANCE, TWICE THE CURRENT OF A SINGLE LR ATTY.

That is going to be a lot of current.
JC, if it melts the negative spring contact in the MOD, let me know :)
It can be fixed.

Rocket
 

misterD

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i dont get it. so it does split the voltage between the 2 attys. that means its ok to use LR's or big NO NO? what if i have 2 3.7 in series that give me a 8+ voltage, would that split between them 2?
a last scenario: if i have it running as a PT? what would happen then?
sorry for being a pain... just wanna know! please share your knowledge one more time only!:oops:
 

Rocketman

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The double barrel silver bullet connects both atty to the same battery source. Full battery voltage goes to both, each, the same, ditto.
The current the battery has to supply is twice what would be flowing with just one atty.
In the case of stacked batteries and a double barrel with Low resistance attys, WOW,
let me say that again WOW.

The resulting parallel resistance would be a little less than 1 ohm with the potential (if the batteries could actually supply this much current without blowing up) current being 7.4v/1ohm or 7.4 amps. The wattage would be 7.4 X 7.4 or about 55 watts.
I don't know about the DBSB but I would not want to be around one of my mods when someone tried to vape 55 watts.
I guess there will be someone that will try stacked high discharge rate batteries and try this. This would be a real hit on youtube. e-cig mod melts and burns off users hand.

another "hey ya'll watch this" moment

Rocket
 
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jiff

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Well, I have to admit my most recent idea (slightly different than what I pm'd you misterD) was to run two 3.7v batteries and run two LR attys through them. I suppose this would be a bad idea? I'll stick to a different idea of have "two mods in one". What I'll do is run two 3.7v batteries, each powering a different atomizer (or maybe one battery powering both, I haven't decided yet).

Now, what switch would be able to handle having two batteries run through it charging two different atomizers? Or would I better off having two switches as well?

Oh, and LOL @ rocketman.
 

Rocketman

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Well, I have to admit my most recent idea (slightly different than what I pm'd you misterD) was to run two 3.7v batteries and run two LR attys through them. I suppose this would be a bad idea? I'll stick to a different idea of have "two mods in one". What I'll do is run two 3.7v batteries, each powering a different atomizer (or maybe one battery powering both, I haven't decided yet).

Now, what switch would be able to handle having two batteries run through it charging two different atomizers? Or would I better off having two switches as well?

Oh, and LOL @ rocketman.

LOL @ rocketman??? why??? two LR attys, in parallel, connected to two high drain 3.7 volt batteries in series would FRY just about ANY switch presently used in mods. Drop an e-mail or PM to one of the manufacturers of big battery mods and see if they wouldn't agree with the above statement.

I believe the "Shotgun" is a mod that uses individual switches for each atty and a battery for each. That would be "two mods in one".
Think long and hard about "series" and "parallel". Errors could tend to make the explosion twice as big.

Rocket
 

Ryan Toupal

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We are running these things across only 1 or 2 ohm loads basically giving what part has the most resistance (the coil) red hot. I'm sure the 125v rating on switches doesn't really mean that much except for arcing.. For instance if you connected the 3.7v battery terminals just up to the switch I'm sure it would burn it out when you hit the button. When you decrease the resistance by running the attys parallel that's what more in effect you are doing.

When I was adding the charger to my box I accidentally created a short and the whole metal post got red hot.
 
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WillyB

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Who is that guy 'LOLing' Rocket? ;)

Alright I found a switch.

gc35462.jpg


Standard Snap Action Switches with Pushbutton Actuator
Specifications:
Current Rating: 15A-125/250V AC, 3/4 H.P. 125V AC, 1-1/2 H.P. 250V AC
Initial Contact Resistance: 0.025 Ohms (max.)
Insulation Resistance: 1000 Megohms (min.)
Dielectric Strength: 1000V RMS
Contact Material: Silver
Terminal Material: Brass – Silver plate
Temperature Rating: -55°C to +85°C
Electrical Life: 200,000 cycles
Mechanical Life: 500,000 cycles
Terminal Type: 0.250" Quick Connect
Mounting Hole: 0.344"
Action: Momentary
Sounds kinda sweet for $5.95.

For instance if you connected the 3.7v battery terminals just up to the switch I'm sure it would burn it out when you hit the button.
Well that's good to know. Must be the 'arching' thing. :rolleyes:
 

WillyB

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Where? I want one.
Just the thing for my quad LR atty HV mod.

:)
You didn't say quad. Then you need this one.

h.800,s.1,w.800,yajmikura.true,m.177d459de87fbd3d87c18948149282c5,3697,sms_232.jpg

Unimax # HBO2674. S.P.S.T., normally-open snap-action switch. Heavy-duty switch rated 22A / 277 Vac, 15A/ 480VAC. 1/4HP/ 125Vac, 1/2HP/ 277Vac. Body is 1.94" x 0.69" x 1.15" high.
Kinda pricey though.
$1.00 each, 10 to 99 $0.85 each, 100 or more $0.70 each
:cool:
 

jiff

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Well, I think I'll end up going with two batteries and two switches (simply because I want to have the option to only fire one).

I plan on using two 14500's (up to the right hand corner running vertically) in a 2x C battery box from madvapes... I know misterD is going to yell at me again when I say that, but I figure a 14500 still lasts a day of vaping (from what I've been told).

Sooo anyway, then I'm going to have a 10ml bottle (to the left of the batteries) with two tubes going up into the cartridge (I'm going to fashion a tip to use on the parellel attys coming up diagonally from the left corner). Then I'm going to have two LED's directly below the negative battery connectors, and two switches directly below each LED (which will end up being directly above the on/off switch located at the bottom right). I'll have to rewire the on/off with the new battery connectors (so the 14500's will fit). I'll run a negative wire from each connector to the on/off switch, and then each of those negative wires to their own atomizer connector. Each LED will have the ground leg to the negative connector conveniently located above them, and then a resistor connecting them to the switch prior to the atty connection (so they are on when the master switch is on). Then the positive wires simply from the connectors to the switch and then to the attys.


There is going to be A LOT of wire going all over the place because of the set up, but I'm hoping this thing works. After a brief convorsation with misterD I'm very confident it will all fit with relative ease.

What do you all think? I know this isn't revolutionarily new, but it's an idea I got into last night.

The only question I have is this: which switches from madvapes (I don't want to order from a bunch of different places for all the materials) should I use? They have to be smaller than the horn switches, and I don't want it to be one of the switches that you press and it stays down and you have to press it again to deactivate it. I want it to perform the same as the horn switch of just push and release, just smaller.

EDIT: http://madvapes.3dcartstores.com/Push-Button-Switch--Red_p_2090.html would these switches work for the size?
 
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