GG Odysseus Mesh only, No Resistance wires needed

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Mata

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In fact it was only running for one and a half puff before the wire melted... :evil:
How the heck do you get 1 Ohm and more with this? Even if I measure Ohms from one side of my mesh to the other I get only 0,3-0,4 Ohms and these are about 8 inches...:blink:

same here, failed at first attempt :( maybe lasted half a second then the wire melted, i haven't tested the resistance though
 

Ulmer

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right now its showing .8-.9 ohms

This is a real miracle!!! My simple measurement for the same mesh (#400) yields the following result:

BB9xd1em


Resistivity = approx. 0.1 ohm/1 cm. At a voltage of 3.7 v, we'll have 137 watts of power and a current of 37 amps!!! - A deadly device...
 
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ManniGfaltig

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I doubt that Bish faked his video :)

But I am clueless so far. I thought it depends on the mesh. My mesh seems to have a clean surface and only few resistance.
If the surface of the mesh has a certain (higher) resistance than the power would heaten these points and the rest of the mesh would heaten up between the two points. But I guess that is not the reason - stalking this thread hoping to get another clue! :toast:
 
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Ulmer

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manni, dont make a fat mesh roll and dont make it stiff too.

Imeo, despite all the talk and tries, nobody has repealed the basic laws of physics that dictate that such heater will provide an enormous power with usual (3.7v) batteries - see my previous post. The only way to implement this idea is to use the Ni-MH or Ni-Cd batteries that give a voltage of 1.2 volts, for example:
GP BATTERIES - GP410LAH1A1P - BATTERY, NIMH, 1.2V, 4100 Mah, 18650
PANASONIC - HHR450AB25 - BATTERY, NIMH, 1.2V, 4500 Mah, 18650
 
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Mikey3

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There is no update because there is no chance this kind of setup could work
It was a faked video

Doubt it was fake and it would be foolish to provide the viewers with this if it were fake. Can be dangerous if someone doesnt know what they are doing


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Ulmer

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The next experiment.
A tubular wick was made of SS mesh #400 having a width of 1 cm, electrical contacts are separated by a distance of 1 cm - This gives a resistance of about 0.1 ohm. We apply a voltage of 3.7 volts:



There are strong doubts that this setup and regime are suitable for vaping...
 
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ManniGfaltig

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I made some progress in my effort to reproduce this. Basically I just did what Bish and Imeo said. Forget about it but when it's a Bish - it's always a wrap! So I wrapped the NR around a coil just like Bish did in his video and for some reason I had around 0,8 Ohms now (which reduced to 0.6 Ohm now).
I assembled that coil in my Penelope and it works pretty good. Well after a good draw it still glows red at the joint(s) but the first draw is amazing.
Going further from there - it seems like the right track! :)

PureMeshCoil.jpg


 
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Ulmer

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The total resistance is determined here by rather long wires and bad contacts between the wires and mesh as well as between the wires and the atomizer body. Such resistance is never permanent. The main heat is produced at the contact points.
Manni, please measure the resistance between the contact points directly on the mesh, not in the atomizer.
What is the size of your mesh?
 
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ManniGfaltig

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Its a bit difficult now as you see in the video both ends got black cause of the glowing that occured when the mesh was drying.
The contact I have is pretty good as you can see on the coil-picture. Because of the wrapping there is a solid connection of wire to the mesh.
But in general I am with you that it has to do with the contact points. These are the points where resistance occurs and these points heat up the mesh, which vaporises our liquid then.
I will try a thicker roll again that can buffer more liquid and see what happens. I will also do some more measuring then.
 
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