I was also thinking doing that on the first photo with the wick but on the second photo how are you going to get the juice up to the mesh ?
GG Odysseus Only Mesh, ONLY 1 None Resistance wire. .8 ohms 4.2 volts
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Now because all of the mesh heats up and the part on the side what I want to know is how hot does the oddy get when vaping on it for 5min ?
Its Mr krinkle's method Taff. The liquid will go there via empty slots of ceramic because liquid's level in the tank is higher than the resistance
Thanks for the info Imeo so it looks like I got to keep it over a quarter full for it to wick then
I just remembered about the mystery of MrKrinkle's method (wick only at the top of ceramic channels), since my experiments with mesh wicks inside my Odysseus, I only use MrKrinkle's method (with mesh, with silica, hybrid), although there is not any material going down through the ceramic channels, it always consumes till the last drop of liquid. 
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/292338-famous-mrkrinkles-method-now-mesh.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/gg/292338-famous-mrkrinkles-method-now-mesh.html
I just remembered an very old thread in a German forum that cares about vaping mesh without coils, so exactly what is covered by this thread. It was started by the guy who designed the very first GLV - just a short summary from the first post where he presents his project (translated by me):
-----------------
After being happy vaping my Genesis atomizers for some weeks now (thanks Raidy for the Idea and Concept) I picked up Raidys original Idea and tried to leave the heating wire away.
(...)
What did I do?
Quite simple! I bended the wirecontacts at the base of my Genesis atomiser into a circular shape. Now they work a little like a spring and they adapt (more or less good) to the coil. The contact is realized by adapting them in different heights.
The mesh needs to be wrapped in several layers and of course needs to be oxidied.
(...)
Following Raidys basic idea, current will flow through the mesh and will heat it up only because of its own resistance.
(...)
Problems found:
1) Too much vapor and throat hit - I never experienced that in 3 years of vaping
2) The vapor is still too hot despite there is no glowing at the mesh. Liquid is spoied in little drops. Its better to use worn out batteries (3-3.4V)
3) The wicking needs to get better. The wicking is not good enough for a few puffs of chain vaping
4) One needs to learn a new vaping technique as the atomizer works instantly when you push the button (i.e. no heating up). Also one cannot push the button for too long as it will get too hot. A PWM circuit might solve that problem but thats not my field
5) I need lower Liquids as it provides nic like hell
6) What shall I do with my Heating-Wire stock now?
Despite of the mentioned "problems" the thread starter thinks that this will be the future of vaping. Advantages over konventional Wick-HeatingWire atomizers are obvious. The biggest problem is the regulation of the vaping temperature.
-------------------
Well, that was the first post of a lengthy thread. As far as I remeber they focused on circuits to regulate the current through the mesh but didn't get it right.
But I am happy that I remembered that thread and will see if there are some interesting points for us burried in that forum...
To be fair - these old patrons of vaping probably would just coughed their lungs out when vaping a dual coil at 0,7 Ohms, they were way more conservative at that time (and didn't have these powerfull batteries we have today) - so some of the problems he describes can be seen more as features today
-----------------
After being happy vaping my Genesis atomizers for some weeks now (thanks Raidy for the Idea and Concept) I picked up Raidys original Idea and tried to leave the heating wire away.
(...)
What did I do?
Quite simple! I bended the wirecontacts at the base of my Genesis atomiser into a circular shape. Now they work a little like a spring and they adapt (more or less good) to the coil. The contact is realized by adapting them in different heights.
The mesh needs to be wrapped in several layers and of course needs to be oxidied.
(...)
Following Raidys basic idea, current will flow through the mesh and will heat it up only because of its own resistance.
(...)
Problems found:
1) Too much vapor and throat hit - I never experienced that in 3 years of vaping
2) The vapor is still too hot despite there is no glowing at the mesh. Liquid is spoied in little drops. Its better to use worn out batteries (3-3.4V)
3) The wicking needs to get better. The wicking is not good enough for a few puffs of chain vaping
4) One needs to learn a new vaping technique as the atomizer works instantly when you push the button (i.e. no heating up). Also one cannot push the button for too long as it will get too hot. A PWM circuit might solve that problem but thats not my field
5) I need lower Liquids as it provides nic like hell
6) What shall I do with my Heating-Wire stock now?
Despite of the mentioned "problems" the thread starter thinks that this will be the future of vaping. Advantages over konventional Wick-HeatingWire atomizers are obvious. The biggest problem is the regulation of the vaping temperature.
-------------------
Well, that was the first post of a lengthy thread. As far as I remeber they focused on circuits to regulate the current through the mesh but didn't get it right.
But I am happy that I remembered that thread and will see if there are some interesting points for us burried in that forum...
To be fair - these old patrons of vaping probably would just coughed their lungs out when vaping a dual coil at 0,7 Ohms, they were way more conservative at that time (and didn't have these powerfull batteries we have today) - so some of the problems he describes can be seen more as features today
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There is a thread talking about using SS wire rope as a wick, with wire rope from McMaster-Carr - I skimmed through the thread and it seems to work pretty good. I think the consensus is that it doesn't hold as much juice, and it holds more heat, but it wicks faster and replenishes faster.
I don't know how this would work out in this experiment, but I thought I'd post it here. Might be worth looking in to?
I don't know how this would work out in this experiment, but I thought I'd post it here. Might be worth looking in to?
it doesnt offer a new teqnique sub. You still have to oxidise it and put wire around it.
I know, just wondering if it could work in place of the mesh like in this experiment, just putting the idea out there.
if its SS then I dont see what else it can offer than what SS mesh offers sub. And I think it would be more difficult to be oxidised because it may have fatter wires
This looks good. Will need to buy different types and sizes to experiment with, especially for the resistance.
ah hell all we need to do is wait for Kanthal mesh and truly forget about it! I would like to try this out on an Ody V1 but think I will pass just because of possible safety issues but have my doubts you can a one resistance wire only on a V1 ceramic? Also couldn't you actually use a longer SS mesh wire as you have 2 ceramic channels. I would like to see a V1 Ody done just to see how it works and any issues.
Bish love your vids man well done and very well explained!
Bish love your vids man well done and very well explained!
I'm running my Ody Version 2 on .7 ohms on a Mechanical Mod. Not Complete steel mesh tho just a wrap where the resistance wire goes and I'm really enjoying it not sure but that method is real easy to do and unclear on why I would need the whole wick to be steel mesh. By the way I'm running this and its day 4 and no need to change yet still a great taste. Most of the time I'm changing the wiring on day 3.
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