You're going to have to blow it up to see, or use zoom. This will keep you safe as far as the numbers go.
GG Talk!
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I thought there may have been a misunderstanding .. I planned on changing my coil by the time I get the other batts.. I can see how he thought I was using .8 ohm on 6v.. But no using it on 3.7v until my other bats come then up on the ohmage
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The chart is like a general guideline but it's only in terms of not burning your coil out.
The real problems come from exceeding the max amp draw on your battery. A .8ohm coil using 4 volts needs a battery capable of supplying 5 constant amps of draw.
A lot of the batteries people use simply can't do that. Take this one for instance:
Tenergy Li-Ion 18500 Cylindrical 3.7V 1400mAh Rechargeable Battery 1C
1400mah = 1.4AH*1C = 1.4 AMPS max constant draw. That's 1/3rd of the amp draw that coil wants.
Moral of the story: Know what you're firing and if your battery can handle it. We don't need more documented cases for the battery safety sticky.
I'm not saying you guys ARE doing this, I'm saying more people need to be aware of stuff like this. Unregulated mods + low ohm coils + cheap batteries = Not Good.
The real problems come from exceeding the max amp draw on your battery. A .8ohm coil using 4 volts needs a battery capable of supplying 5 constant amps of draw.
A lot of the batteries people use simply can't do that. Take this one for instance:
Tenergy Li-Ion 18500 Cylindrical 3.7V 1400mAh Rechargeable Battery 1C
1400mah = 1.4AH*1C = 1.4 AMPS max constant draw. That's 1/3rd of the amp draw that coil wants.
Moral of the story: Know what you're firing and if your battery can handle it. We don't need more documented cases for the battery safety sticky.
I'm not saying you guys ARE doing this, I'm saying more people need to be aware of stuff like this. Unregulated mods + low ohm coils + cheap batteries = Not Good.
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Ohms Law Calculator. Put your voltage and coil ohms in to see how many amps and watts you're giving the system.
Ohm's Law Calculator
Edited: I'm better now
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Batteries are definitely where you don't wan't to cut corners.CGR18650ch 10C (2250*10C=22.5Amps ) rating are a good choice.I guess the AW IMRs are also but I have read they are just Panasonic and Sanyos 2nds that they sell him.And he(AW,Andy Wong) uses various other suppliers.Just my .02
That can't be right medman.
Panasonic isn't even a true IMR, they use a specific and proprietary battery composition. IMR refers to a very specific battery composition.
Panasonic might be better, it's subjective, but it's not the same battery.
Also the Panasonic specs are 5C not 10C.
Technical Parameter
Model: Panasonic CGR18650CH
Material: Li-ion
Voltage: 3.6V
Capacity: 2250mAh
Maximum discharging current: 10A (5C)
Max. charge current: 1.5A
Dimension: Height 65.2 mm, Diameter 18.6 mm
Weight: 44g
Panasonic isn't even a true IMR, they use a specific and proprietary battery composition. IMR refers to a very specific battery composition.
Panasonic might be better, it's subjective, but it's not the same battery.
Also the Panasonic specs are 5C not 10C.
Technical Parameter
Model: Panasonic CGR18650CH
Material: Li-ion
Voltage: 3.6V
Capacity: 2250mAh
Maximum discharging current: 10A (5C)
Max. charge current: 1.5A
Dimension: Height 65.2 mm, Diameter 18.6 mm
Weight: 44g
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shek just finished a coop for the Panasonic's and we got them for around $4 each,I 'm not sure if there is another coop but I would recommend getting a bunch if there is.I had bought them from Orbtronic for $9 each with free shipping.Either way they are worth it.
Just what I read.I think I read that AW gets the same batteries that Panasonic /Sanyo puts in there battery packs.
It's just not the same battery. I don't know why people keep calling it an IMR. Even the vendor you mentioned Orbtronic calls it a hybrid IMR as it's a mix of Li-on and IMR technology.
I know if an IMR goes thermal it off gasses without exploding.
I don't know what the panasonic cell does.
It's a fine and highly respected battery. But it's not an IMR since it has about half the max discharge rate of the AW and a different composition.
I know if an IMR goes thermal it off gasses without exploding.
I don't know what the panasonic cell does.
It's a fine and highly respected battery. But it's not an IMR since it has about half the max discharge rate of the AW and a different composition.
I thought they were just high drain until now but when I read your post I checked the label on the orbtronics.
Hybrid IMR High Drain Li-Mn/Li-ion 18650 battery.
There is several vids on youtube showing a cgr18650ch hard shorted until the battery is pretty dead with no venting,just heat.
Hybrid IMR High Drain Li-Mn/Li-ion 18650 battery.
There is several vids on youtube showing a cgr18650ch hard shorted until the battery is pretty dead with no venting,just heat.
That's good information. I'll try out a couple.
Even 5C discharge with that kind of capacity is a lot more then anything I would throw at it. 10 Amps is sufficient for almost anything.
Even 5C discharge with that kind of capacity is a lot more then anything I would throw at it. 10 Amps is sufficient for almost anything.
So seeings we're on the topic of batteries venting/exploding, was curious if a Kick or Holocron Labs Short Stop would make the fuse upgrade for the GGTS unnecessary? I'm looking into the Short Stop, as having a safety feature like that that's reusable seems like a smart purchase.
Also, does the Fuse upgrade for the TS limit the battery configurations one can use? As in, does it limit the space in the battery tube?
Also, does the Fuse upgrade for the TS limit the battery configurations one can use? As in, does it limit the space in the battery tube?
Ty,
Use one or the other, both is a little redundant, if you dont want to work with little springs then try one of the two cents we carry or the like.
Unless you feel you need the extra extra protection
Use one or the other, both is a little redundant, if you dont want to work with little springs then try one of the two cents we carry or the like.
Unless you feel you need the extra extra protection
Ty,
Kick won't even work with the fuse upgrade. Just refuses to fire 90% of the time.
Basically if the kick isn't getting good current flow it reads the battery as having less voltage then it actually has and kicks in it's cut-off. The kick basically won't let you use a battery past about 3.3V under load, just like a ProVari. It's a nice feature as you can never over discharge your batteries. It also has short circuit protection.
Not sure about the two cent fuse + fuse upgrade but it seems like too much ;D
Kick won't even work with the fuse upgrade. Just refuses to fire 90% of the time.
Basically if the kick isn't getting good current flow it reads the battery as having less voltage then it actually has and kicks in it's cut-off. The kick basically won't let you use a battery past about 3.3V under load, just like a ProVari. It's a nice feature as you can never over discharge your batteries. It also has short circuit protection.
Not sure about the two cent fuse + fuse upgrade but it seems like too much ;D
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