GG Tilemahos V2 and Penelope V4 mini official thread

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soulseek

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So, I'm also back to report on my experience with the Tilemahos.

I completely stripped the atty, manually degreased all the parts with detergent, water and a fine toothbrush, ran it through the ultrasonic cleaner and finally give all the parts a wipe with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol and let them air dry. I did see several things. The threads were not particularly clean, especially on the housing and base. I even found a big lump of polishing compound still left in one of the air slots in the base! When I've bought GG stuff before, it's always been perfectly clean and it's my mistake to trust that things would always be that way. It was very easy to remove the posts from the post assembly. They obviously had not been fully tightened when the atomiser was originally assembled.

Once I'd properly cleaned the atomiser, I re-assembled it and used pliers to tighten the posts and the centre pin extension. I also screwed the adjustable centre pin on tightly with pliers. The amount of force that I used with the pliers was just a little more than I was comfortable with, so I really hope I don't ever have to completely strip the atomiser down again. I shouldn't have to remove the posts at least and I'm certain that these connections are now pretty much gas tight.

I made a spaced NiFe30 coil around a 3mm form with five wraps to give me a room temperature resistance of 0.33 ohms. I used KGD cotton as my wick.

I'm happy to report that after four whole tanks of juice and the mod being taken to work and out and about that the resistance has been completely stable. I've been enjoying a very reliable and satisfying vape - exactly what I was looking for in the first place!

So, in summary, if you want your Tilemahos to work reliably with temperature control you need to strip it, clean it properly and reassemble it very tightly before using it. You can't use the adjustable centre pin if you are going to use temperature control either, it must be screwed in all the way and tightened with pliers.

I've been also having very inconsistent and temperature control and Tilemahos. I've connected it to the atomiser analyser of the DNA200 and the resistance is jumping up and down. I did tighten everything with pliers but I had to use way too much force for the resistance for it stop moving around. However, every time I reconnect it back on the mod I get a different cold resistance.
 

imeothanasis

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there are several reasons for this Seek.

1. Your wick is dirty. I dont understand why this is happening. But if you remember, that was the advantage of VW vs VV control in past.

2. If the difference is for example 0,75-0,8 thats not a difference that can be controlled because of the other threads you screw and unscrew again and again and again

3. wire is moving while you put wick inside it. While its moving, a very small amount of it changes direction and touch a little more or less the bolts that keep it.

4. It depends on how hard is the connection with the center post of your mod. Also if you center post has a moving pin. Also if the pin is shined or mat.

5. it also depends on how hard you screw the atomizer on the 510 threads of a mod or a device that measures resistance. I read different resistances when I screw a lot Tilemahos on a eleaf cevice that measures resistance and different when I screw it less but still tight. Difference is 0,89 and 0,96. That 0,07 ohms.

I have said before that you try the impossible with nickel or any other NR wire. Thats not the way to seriously vape on a TC device. If your vaping values change with so small and non controlled moves, then you are in the wrong path. Its not your mistake of course.
 

soulseek

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Obviously I'm using Titanium as I have been for a long time now. I would never use nickel. Everything is screwed down as much as possible and nothing is moving around. The difference in resistance is as much as 15% which is a lot in my opinion. I wouldn't be complaining but the cheap chinese tanks that I have seem to work consistently.

I'm waiting for e-smoke to restock the springomizer so I can try TC with it, hopefully I won't have problems there.
 

imeothanasis

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Ah, you use titanium Seek, great!

I will show you a video and you will understand what AD pin of Tilemahos does. Be sure that AD pin doesnt affect at all the measurement EXCEPT if connection is not the right one. I will upload a video about it.

Now, when you measure the resistance, be sure that you didnt move the AD pin of Tilemahos between measurements. Also check if your mod has an AD pin. That will change a lot your values.

What I am trying to tell to all users out there, is that the temperature measurement requires TOTALLY good connections. We try to measure small resistances and EVERYTHING plays a role

Please wait for 10 mins to upload the video and I will explain what you see on it. Be sure that you will understand what is going on with measurements
 
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imeothanasis

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The first measurements are done with a bad connection. Even like that, Tilemahos didnt behave bad lol

When the connection was the right one (because I raised the AD pin of Tilemahos and it did the right contact with the measuring device), the measurements were the half and totally accurate.

The greatest the connection, the better the results. Spring loaded pins, springs, loosy connections on 510 threads, lossy connections on center posts, dirty threads, measurements after you touched atomizer and its 510 threads with your hands etc, are not allowed
 

hobbes4

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Imeo, can you make a domed chimney for Tile like this

c0e3a59ce7bd206f77b7e4f29f398ebd.jpg
 

imeothanasis

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a mouthpiece like this has 2 problems Hob.

1. It will reduce capacity A LOT without a reason
2. You will have liquid in mouth in every inhale

I tried a coned one on Tilemahos and I had liquid in my mouth all the time. The reason is that liquid doesnt stop at mouthpiece's walls but it slips inside the rounded mouthpiece and comes up
 
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