GGTS Clone/CCST/Chi Chi Show and Tell

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Lhartman89

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I don't see them in stock anywhere. I am sure they will be back in stock soon as the Chinese New Year is over now so I would think their orders would be getting shipped soon.

Actually all I have found is a kit.
http://www.vaportekusa.com/Starter_Kits-GG_Telescope_Kit_KTS_X6.html

Or here
http://www.bestvaping.net/2013-hot-selling-telescopic-mod-kts-ecigarette-starter-kits-p-886.html

I got bored so I decided to wrap mine in some pearl white vinyl.

IMAG0503-1.jpgIMAG0509.jpg
 
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Stownz

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Just for the record, di-electric greese in non-conductive. We use it in the automotive field to keep moisture out of electrical connectors, but it doesn't help the actual conductivity of the connection. I have some stuff that is $80 a tube to fix loose connection issues.

Noalox is what you should be using if your wanting something cheap.
 

ethebull

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Just for the record, di-electric greese in non-conductive. We use it in the automotive field to keep moisture out of electrical connectors, but it doesn't help the actual conductivity of the connection. I have some stuff that is $80 a tube to fix loose connection issues.

Noalox is what you should be using if your wanting something cheap.

Interesting. I thought that might well be the case, with the prefix di- which means two, or separate. I used some audiophile contact enhancement grease which has particles of silver in it. I happened to have some and did this before ever using my chichi, so nothing I can report on its effects. Put it on the threaded contacts too.
 
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dirtyrigger

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Just for the record, di-electric greese in non-conductive. We use it in the automotive field to keep moisture out of electrical connectors, but it doesn't help the actual conductivity of the connection. I have some stuff that is $80 a tube to fix loose connection issues.

Noalox is what you should be using if your wanting something cheap.

That's very interesting. Looking back now at my battery post the switch has taken all the bulb grease off the small area it contacts, perhaps having it around the contact point is preventing arcs on the edges of the switch that are close to but not touching the battery post. That could reduce switch heat, I'm very curious now to understand how this worked.
 

BWhare

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When dielectric grease was first suggested, I looked it up and found that it wasn't supposed to be conductive so I couldn't, for the life of me, figure out why it was suggested for this application. So far, I've had the hot switch problem, and I tried the lithium just to see what it would do (for no other reason than I had some on hand - and it was lithium which is used in some batteries).

I've noticed that both the switch contacts and the pole seem to be chromed so they should be connecting properly unless the chrome is somehow messing that up - in which case, I wonder if scraping the chrome off might help.

Then again, I don't know what I'm doing ......
 

bzmotoninja83

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The reason i suggested the Di-electric grease is, while it does keep moisture out, it had helped in the past where i had a turn signal bulb that had loose or corroded contacts. Same with a battery post and terminal in a car. it doesnt conduct electricity itself, it does help promote it. i personally havent had any issues with my switch but, when ahead and lued mine up too for, safe measure? Anyways, Im not nearly as smart or have the experience that some of out senior members have......
 
So I got my white carbon fiber today and decided to re-wrap the CCTS.

View attachment 181961View attachment 181962

Personally I don't care for the carbon fiber wrap on an mechanical mod at all. I think thats more appropriate/aesthetic on a VV/VW APV. I think if you were looking for a way to improve the look you should go to a metal shop and have then take the mod to the lathe and take off the knurling and have some parts of it annodized. On such a small piece it should cost relatively the same as the wrap (if you go to the right shop). Just my $.02
 

OttoBahn

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Personally I don't care for the carbon fiber wrap on an mechanical mod at all. I think thats more appropriate/aesthetic on a VV/VW APV. I think if you were looking for a way to improve the look you should go to a metal shop and have then take the mod to the lathe and take off the knurling and have some parts of it annodized. On such a small piece it should cost relatively the same as the wrap (if you go to the right shop). Just my $.02



FWIW: To many folks, a wrap (of any kind) can be perfectly good/appropriate (or aesthetically pleasing) on many types of devices...
 
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