GGTS Clone/CCST/Chi Chi Show and Tell

[teeemoy]

Here's mine when I got it early last month:



Here it is about 2 weeks later:



Chrome comes off real fast.

Here it is now:



Still use it everyday like an addict. At least I've laid off analogs for good.

 

[Nitrobex]

Now de-knurled and polished

View attachment 197553

That is super awesome...

 

[bzmotoninja83]

Anybody have a picture of the terminator on top of the ccts? Getting a termI and wondered how it would sit

 

[Errol]

If need be, you can get a replacement cap from Hoosier vapes, but currently out of stock. Wonder why

You can screw the cap into the short tube for better grip if you wish to try pulling the pin loose. It appears to be pressed into a silicone grommet fitted into a disc pressed into the cap. If tightened down to much it may have reached the cap itself and caused the short.

ETA - just tried to see if the ring with all the holes would detach from the Bottom cap. Using long needle nose pliers, it turns 4 full turns then sticks(stops) Either direction. Don't know if this piece is threaded or what, but it isn't really pressed in place.

Sorry, not going to trash mine to find out.

Took some serious force to get the pin out. Drilled a block of wood to clamp the cap in, put it in the vice, 8" pair of vice grips and a lot of leverage and the pin finally broke loose. Appears to have been pressed into the bottom of the cap, brass for sure, about 1/16", with some sort of space age glue holding it. Can't figure out how it was supposed to be insulated from the cap as it appear it was connected directly into the cap. The steel pin holder appears to be pressed into the cap about 1/4" and could probably be punched out if I drill a hole in from the end. Not going to do that, probably just put some silicone in the hole and push the pin back in just short of contacting the cap.

Errol

 

[crxess]

Glad you got it done. Enjoy the Chi-Chi
Probably a mis-press situation.
let it cure well before running any pressure down on the pin.

 

[Koman]

Here's mine when I got it early last month:



Here it is about 2 weeks later:



Chrome comes off real fast.

Here it is now:



Still use it everyday like an addict. At least I've laid off analogs for good.

I like it, it looks really cool!

 

[zipflint]

I know this has been answered before, but I want to make sure my head is on straight so I'll ask it again:

Stacking two 18350 batteries effectively doubles the voltage output, right?
So, one 3.7V 18350 puts out apprx 3.7V before taking any voltage drop into account, right.
Same as a single 18650.
But TWO 18350s will output 7.4V, right? Assuming they are freshly charged.

Again, sorry for going through all this again. I did search and found the answer, but I just want to
be absolutely sure.

And yes, a multimeter is definitely one of my next purchases.

 

[Nitrobex]

I know this has been answered before, but I want to make sure my head is on straight so I'll ask it again:

Stacking two 18350 batteries effectively doubles the voltage output, right?
So, one 3.7V 18350 puts out apprx 3.7V before taking any voltage drop into account, right.
Same as a single 18650.
But TWO 18350s will output 7.4V, right? Assuming they are freshly charged.

Again, sorry for going through all this again. I did search and found the answer, but I just want to
be absolutely sure.

And yes, a multimeter is definitely one of my next purchases.

Yes... Check the safety stuff for stacking if you are going to stack... Also full charge it will be 8.4V (cells are 4.2V when full charged.) Unless you are useing LIFPO4 cells they are 3.2 full charge... so 6.4...

 

[zipflint]

Thanks VERY much for the information. I appreciate that. I'll be using Efest 3.7V IMR flat tops. I've got a reuseable 2 Cents for Safety fuse. That still goes on the bottom, right? Between the negative side of the bottom battery and the contact spring?

edit:
Obviously this should only be used on a high-Ohm coil, right? If the resistance is too low it'll short the coil, if I'm understanding everything correctly.

Yes... Check the safety stuff for stacking if you are going to stack... Also full charge it will be 8.4V (cells are 4.2V when full charged.) Unless you are useing LIFPO4 cells they are 3.2 full charge... so 6.4...

 

[Errol]

Glad you got it done. Enjoy the Chi-Chi
Probably a mis-press situation.
let it cure well before running any pressure down on the pin.

That did the trick, all is well. In my previous post I indicated it was pressed into the brass cap as I could see what appeared to be brass but I have since remembered the post rotated freely so it must be pressed into a non-conductive disc that rotates between post guide and the brass cap. Just a clarification.

Errol

 

[itamarb]

Here's mine when I got it early last month:



Here it is about 2 weeks later:



Chrome comes off real fast.

Here it is now:



Still use it everyday like an addict. At least I've laid off analogs for good.

This is very impressive... BIG like...
Is this a hand/home-made wrap?

 

[d9mel]

liking the chichis, hate the tapered top. Made a rough ring out of JB weld steelstick let it cure then filed and sanded to shape to match up with modded AGA-T, took off the chrome with 220 grit then polished with nevr-dull. I like rough finishes so thats probably the only time it will ever get polished.

for the price this thing is a workhorse

 

[b0redagain]

liking the chichis, hate the tapered top. Made a rough ring out of JB weld steelstick let it cure then filed and sanded to shape to match up with modded AGA-T, took off the chrome with 220 grit then polished with nevr-dull. I like rough finishes so thats probably the only time it will ever get polished.

for the price this thing is a workhorse

If my two looked like that I would probably keep them...but they don't so I'm getting rid of them. I just don't like the look of that knurled ring or tapered top and don't want to fiddle with them.

 

[qorax]

liking the chichis, hate the tapered top. Made a rough ring out of JB weld steelstick let it cure then filed and sanded to shape to match up with modded AGA-T, took off the chrome with 220 grit then polished with nevr-dull. I like rough finishes so thats probably the only time it will ever get polished.

for the price this thing is a workhorse

Yep, that's looking cool indeed. Good job there!

 

[d9mel]

I've been talking myself out of buying a high end mech mod almost every day, this will work just fine till I find what I'm looking for. I've actually been using this more than my recessed DNA 20 mod lately, been on a 0.8 ohm binge

 

[WinchellNomNom]

 

[4matic]

Does anyone here have the same issue I'm having with the switch always loosening up and eventually coming off? What can I do to fix this...I've already lost 2 buttons this way... :T

 

[WinchellNomNom]

Does anyone here have the same issue I'm having with the switch always loosening up and eventually coming off? What can I do to fix this...I've already lost 2 buttons this way... :T

Tighten the switch down with needle nose pliers. I cut up an old mousepad to use with my pliers to avoid scratching. The rubber on the bottom of the mousepad is idea for grip.

 

[4matic]

Tighten the switch down with needle nose pliers. I cut up an old mousepad to use with my pliers to avoid scratching. The rubber on the bottom of the mousepad is idea for grip.

Well the issue is with the contacting nut inside of the tubing that connects to the switch post...not the actual housing.

 

[wyckdkarma]

I'm lovin my chi-chi!
I've been having issues with the fire button getting hot. I've seen the posts about filing the finish off the contact point of the firing post and I've done that, but its still building heat. I also read to file the finish off of the positive post... but I'm not sure how to do that?
Thanks in advance for any tips!