Hey....thanks for that. Quality will vary....that's all I'm saying. If it doesn't strip out I think I might grow to like this thing for the money. But love it... I wish.
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Hey....thanks for that. Quality will vary....that's all I'm saying. If it doesn't strip out I think I might grow to like this thing for the money. But love it... I wish.
My threads were loose as well. After several weeks I decided to wrap the threads on the inner tube with teflon tape. Screwing it all together cuts through the teflon so the connectivity is still intact and now there's no wobble. You can't see the teflon until you unscrew one of the sections.
Replaced battery post with solid brass rod and delrin sleve.
3.9v at atomizer terminals with 0.9 Ohm coil and well used AW 18500 IMR.
18350 mode after deknurling and polishing. looks pretty good with a DID standard.
18500 Mode
That looks awesome! Is that what is under the chrome plating or did you get it like that and polish? Also, how in the heck did you get the negative pin/spring out? I've pulled, pried, and wiggled and can't get it free. Since you changed the sleeve, I'm assuming you chopped the top and drilled it out?
I took off like 95% of all my chrome and gave it a rough finish on the top and bottom with a shiny polish on the center, bottom rings, and button.
^^^ That looks really nice too, good job! Looking at the pics, I thought you had covered it with something, looks really good. I'm really liking the polished copper look (it's copper under there right?).
I went ahead and just chopped off the post and drilled it out. Used the middle nipple section of a 1/8" to 1/8" plastic vacuum coupler for a sleeve along with some round brass rod, so it's just a solid brass post. The fit is tight enough to keep the post sturdy and also so it won't easily short out against the bottom. I also made it short enough so that the top and bottom come completely together in 18350 mode (what I use it most in) without the center sleeve showing. It's much shorter and stealthier. I'm using it with a small Terminator drip RBA for ultra stealth vaping but can still extend it out if needed (love telescope mods for this reason). Tested it with a MNKE 18650 flat top and it's the same height as my Kamry K100 (mech mod itself, not full mod with atty).
I went ahead and just chopped off the post and drilled it out. Used the middle nipple section of a 1/8" to 1/8" plastic vacuum coupler for a sleeve along with some round brass rod, so it's just a solid brass post. The fit is tight enough to keep the post sturdy and also so it won't easily short out against the bottom. I also made it short enough so that the top and bottom come completely together in 18350 mode (what I use it most in) without the center sleeve showing. It's much shorter and stealthier. I'm using it with a small Terminator drip RBA for ultra stealth vaping but can still extend it out if needed (love telescope mods for this reason). Tested it with a MNKE 18650 flat top and it's the same height as my Kamry K100 (mech mod itself, not full mod with atty).
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Hey, no, LOL the original post does not screw out LOL. I was a f@#$ing biach, but only because I didn't know going in how it was attatched .It appears the the drilled disc that the post sits in is pressed in place, and the original post is like a post with a washer welded on to the end, so I ended up having to just drill all the way down and through the post til I could remove the waffer thin sleve of metal that remained, leaving the hidden washer or disc of metal in place. No matter really though as I was still able to sand a delrin drip tip (internal diameter was the perfect size for the brass rod I used) to make an unsulator sleve and insete it into the hole for a nice rigid fit.
The mod was originally chrome plated over copper over a pure brass base metal .
Ah, sounds exactly like what I did lol. Cursed at it for a few minutes and after gouging it with some lock pliers just decided to cut the post off and drill out the remainder. I just used a plastic 1/8" vacuum coupler section, pressed right in to the original hole, and the brass rod I used pressed right into the coupler nice and firm. I did have an issue with the switch not making contact due to the size rod I used, but a couple tiny M2 washers gave me the extra throw I needed.
Let me know where to send mine so you can do this for me. Really good stuff.
Had some time to work on my chichi. Decided to keep the caps plated. Ive only modded the switch and 200grit sanded the tubes. Still need to go through 600grit and 1200 grit, then polish.
Pics of work thus far. Cutting off a portion of the negative contact and spring allowed me to reduce the height of the mod in 18350. Looks flush now with battery.
Pics of work thus far. Cutting off a portion of the negative contact and spring allowed me to reduce the height of the mod in 18350. Looks flush now with battery.
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I quit. This is as far as im going. Hand turning everything is overrated. I ended up stripping and polishing the bottom cap only leaving a band of gold chrome.
I must say, the mod feels premium in the hand now.
I must say, the mod feels premium in the hand now.
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I quit. This is as far as im going. Hand turning everything is overrated. I ended up stripping and polishing the bottom cap only leaving a band of gold chrome.
I must say, the mod feels premium in the hand now.
this was just from hand sanding?!
I dont have tools
I do have about 9 new blisters though.
haha legit job though! I might have try this...200 grit right?
wet&dry 200grit, 400grit, 600grit, then a quick turn of brassos on a microfiber cloth.
200 grit takes a while since you have to get rid of the chrome layer and then the copper layer to get to the brass. 400 and 600 together only takes a couple of minutes since this step is only smoothing out the previous grit.
200 grit alone would be my picture from my previous post. But its a bit rougher than your typical satin finish. Still looks good though.
Over the switch heating up even after the brass post mod, so decided to build a new switch.
Parts shown and ohmage of coil (0.8Ohm) used for under load voltage test (3.98v under load, fresh 18500 @4.16v), too tired to list full build info, but will later if anyone is interseted.
Parts,cut section of Did clone center strut, brass rod, m3 screw, springs from cheap allen key set.
Original switch next to mine.
Circlip retainer made from spring loop.
Parts shown and ohmage of coil (0.8Ohm) used for under load voltage test (3.98v under load, fresh 18500 @4.16v), too tired to list full build info, but will later if anyone is interseted.
Parts,cut section of Did clone center strut, brass rod, m3 screw, springs from cheap allen key set.
Original switch next to mine.
Circlip retainer made from spring loop.
Ohms test.
Voltage under 0.8 Ohm load with 18500 IMR
The switch installed in the mod is'nt the best looker, as it needs a machined pan head brass screw or somthing to tidy up the look, but dam! this hits harder than all my other mods, Poldiac, modded Paps hybrid, ect. etc.
Voltage under 0.8 Ohm load with 18500 IMR
The switch installed in the mod is'nt the best looker, as it needs a machined pan head brass screw or somthing to tidy up the look, but dam! this hits harder than all my other mods, Poldiac, modded Paps hybrid, ect. etc.
For the post, how did you take it down a few mm? I think I have a hacksaw and file in the garage!
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