Going to start my first mod this week. Design rough draft.
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I like aluminum also. I want to go stainless steel, but my current workshop cant handle it. I just got a few blocks of black and white delrin in im going to carve to accomodate a few new design 3d models I had printed yesterday. Trying out some 40c lipos with an excellent form factor. Ill post a new thread once I get started. Summer classes just started so spare time is at a premium
Those connectors have gone into the unicorn catagory....they were a kind of a pita with the adjustable pin, plus longer than I would like them to be.
My lathe is pissing me off tonight and I would really like to throw it out the GD window....but the boss says I can't upgrade yet, so it's going to have to do for a while yet.
I haven't used 416 as its not the most readily available that I found in small lengths, but the specs say it isn't the best for corrosion (not to be used for marine applications). I suggest sticking with 303 or 304 unless you have a serious machine and good tools. I made the mistake of getting 316 and its not all that fun. Doable but hard on tools and I have to take real light passes.
My lathe is pissing me off tonight and I would really like to throw it out the GD window....but the boss says I can't upgrade yet, so it's going to have to do for a while yet.
I haven't used 416 as its not the most readily available that I found in small lengths, but the specs say it isn't the best for corrosion (not to be used for marine applications). I suggest sticking with 303 or 304 unless you have a serious machine and good tools. I made the mistake of getting 316 and its not all that fun. Doable but hard on tools and I have to take real light passes.
The Boss........LOL. A bunch of the custom knife maker guys use 416 but as you already mentioned is does not have the best corrosion resistance. I just pick some up online from Mcmaster when I run out. What I like about the 416 is that when machining 416SS produces chips instead of strings.
Nice access to the insides, but what holds it together in use?
You can see the ledge on the inside. Depending on material used eg. alloy, abs plastic, etc.
For abs I would use acetone on the inside seams and the plastic fuses together.
For aluminum I 40 grit sand all the interior seams. Use a thin layer of cotton gauze tacked with protype putty and then use a quick set resin followed by a slow set high psi resin.
On my first protypes, I couldnt tear apart the aluminum housing without two sets of pliers and a torch.
These are permanently closed mods with 4 solder batteries in parallel.
New cases I had 3D printed in nylon. 2 piece design. Recessed standard 510 connector. 2800 mah.
Started on them tonight.
Dimensions 2.9" tall by 1.15x1.60"
Started on them tonight.
Dimensions 2.9" tall by 1.15x1.60"
Dummy question: how do you install the 510 connectors? They look like they would just fall into the body with little pressure (though I'm sure they are secured).
The recess and the well portion are a solid 1 piece design. The 510 connector has a lip going around the top. I press fit the connector from the top and secure with resin on the bottom.
Mamu designed a plastic bezel for the DNA-20 that you can order from a company that does 3-D printing, in various colors, for under $5.
That may help mount the screen in a tube, if you are still considering that design...
Mamu's DNA20D Screen Cradle by bapgood on Shapeways
That may help mount the screen in a tube, if you are still considering that design...
Mamu's DNA20D Screen Cradle by bapgood on Shapeways
Nice job WinchelAre you done now, or will you order more metal cases and build those as well?
I still have 4 dna20 boards to use up. Going to try another design. 2 boards per design. I have 2 5600mah lipos (bapgood suggested) to use, so my next case design will incorporate those batteries.
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