Got a new mod, have some questions

[Tactix]

So, I got a new mod today, it's an ego styled battery, but it has the dna 30 chip in it, cost me $60, really didn't want to get it, but had no choice because I didn't have a backup.

My first question is, I'm using 30 gauge kanthal and used a normal micro coil in my kayfun lite, I kept getting weird metallic like hits at anything over 10 watts, took it apart and dry burned the coil and it literally flopped sideways laying flat on my deck, it was a new coil but I had to trash it because I didn't trust that it'd be alright to use anymore, the question is, the coil was a 0.9 ohm micro coil is there a chance that I just need a larger gauge wire in order to use it above 15+ watts?

My other question was, did I screw up getting the U30-B over the U20 mod? The U20 is an eleaf istick clone that fires as low as .3 ohms but is virtually the same as an istick in terms of whats inside. I was told by the guy that the U30-B uses the dna 30 chip and that's what really sold me over the other, plus being able to go to 30 watts.

I really hope I didn't screw up :\ Thanks guys

 

[DavidAmonettNashville]

So, I got a new mod today, it's an ego styled battery, but it has the dna 30 chip in it, cost me $60, really didn't want to get it, but had no choice because I didn't have a backup.

My first question is, I'm using 30 gauge kanthal and used a normal micro coil in my kayfun lite, I kept getting weird metallic like hits at anything over 10 watts, took it apart and dry burned the coil and it literally flopped sideways laying flat on my deck, it was a new coil but I had to trash it because I didn't trust that it'd be alright to use anymore, the question is, the coil was a 0.9 ohm micro coil is there a chance that I just need a larger gauge wire in order to use it above 15+ watts?

My other question was, did I screw up getting the U30-B over the U20 mod? The U20 is an eleaf istick clone that fires as low as .3 ohms but is virtually the same as an istick in terms of whats inside. I was told by the guy that the U30-B uses the DNA 30 chip and that's what really sold me over the other, plus being able to go to 30 watts.

I really hope I didn't screw up :\ Thanks guys

Is this what you bought? It is not a DNA board.

 

[Tactix]

Is this what you bought? It is not a DNA board.

Yeah, that's it alright :\ Would I have been better off getting the U20?

 

[Smann245]

Use 28g and a larger diameter coil. Try 7/64" (2.7mm) and 9 wraps. I use that build in my kayfun and run it at 16.5watts.

 

[edyle]

So, I got a new mod today, it's an ego styled battery, but it has the dna 30 chip in it, cost me $60, really didn't want to get it, but had no choice because I didn't have a backup.

My first question is, I'm using 30 gauge kanthal and used a normal micro coil in my kayfun lite, I kept getting weird metallic like hits at anything over 10 watts, took it apart and dry burned the coil and it literally flopped sideways laying flat on my deck, it was a new coil but I had to trash it because I didn't trust that it'd be alright to use anymore, the question is, the coil was a 0.9 ohm micro coil is there a chance that I just need a larger gauge wire in order to use it above 15+ watts?

My other question was, did I screw up getting the U30-B over the U20 mod? The U20 is an eleaf istick clone that fires as low as .3 ohms but is virtually the same as an istick in terms of whats inside. I was told by the guy that the U30-B uses the DNA 30 chip and that's what really sold me over the other, plus being able to go to 30 watts.

I really hope I didn't screw up :\ Thanks guys

1: If the 0.9 ohm 30 gauge works great at 10 watts, then if you double the wraps to get a 1.8 ohm it will run at double the power and double the voltage.
If you use larger gauge wire instead, that would tend to need higher watts also.
To get the same ohms with thicker gauge you'd need more wraps too.

2: .....

 

[DavidAmonettNashville]

Yeah, that's it alright :\ Would I have been better off getting the U20?

Here's the stats from the manufacturers page.

​

U30 30W VV/VW Ecig MOD Specification:


1. U30-B 30W huge vapor Mechanical MOD!!
2. Stainless steel solid material
3. Variable wattages 7W --30W
4. Built in 2200mah battery, more safe
5. Atomizer resistant 0.3 Ω-3 Ω, huge vaping
6. OLED screen showing the work voltage, wattage, atomizer resistance
7.Varible Voltage: 3.0V-7.1V

U30-B kit Content:

1pc 30w MOD
1pc USB charger
1pc Manual
1pc gift Box

 

[Tactix]

1: If the 0.9 ohm 30 gauge works great at 10 watts, then if you double the wraps to get a 1.8 ohm it will run at double the power and double the voltage.
If you use larger gauge wire instead, that would tend to need higher watts also.
To get the same ohms with thicker gauge you'd need more wraps too.

2: .....

I already know this lol, what I was asking is if I got higher gauge wire, would it handle the higher wattage more efficiently? Right now I'm running a 30g twisted coil at .7 ohms was aiming for lower but can't complain because it's going up to 17 watts fine in the kayfun. Definitely getting an RDA though XD I really should have thought this out beforehand :\


EDIT: The whole reason I got this mod was so I could finally Sub-ohm, but now i'm realizing that's not such a good idea in a kayfun lite xD

 

[edyle]

I already know this lol, what I was asking is if I got higher gauge wire, would it handle the higher wattage more efficiently? Right now I'm running a 30g twisted coil at .7 ohms was aiming for lower but can't complain because it's going up to 17 watts fine in the kayfun. Definitely getting an RDA though XD I really should have thought this out beforehand :\


EDIT: The whole reason I got this mod was so I could finally Sub-ohm, but now i'm realizing that's not such a good idea in a kayfun lite xD

a 28 gauge kanthal 0.7 ohm coil would need more power to get hot enough than a 30 gauge kanthal 0.7 ohm coil.

Use the 'steam engine' calculator to see how gauge affects temperature.

 

[Foggyroomz]

I don't like kayfun atomizers because they are really tight draw and if you sub-ohm with them they tend to give a burned taste but that is just me personally. If you would like a tank rebuildable atomizer that will run sub-ohm and have the airflow to give you a pleasant vape look into an EhPro billow or a UD Goblin they are both capable of sub-ohm with excellent flavor and great airflow like an RDA without the inconvenience of having to drip juice all the time.
The Kayfun line of atomizers weren't designed for people looking to sub-ohm they were meant to be used on devices that are now very weak in power by today's standards like an MVP 2.0 which was only 11 watts they weren't to be pushed above 15 maybe 20 watts max. With the wattage war that manufacturers are in for the biggest, baddest, most powerful mods, the kayfun and genesis style atomizers are a bit of a relic.
Now there are demands for tank atomizers that will perform like a RDA and in comes the Lemo, Billow, Atlantis, Kanger Sub-tanks, Delta II, UD Goblin, and so on.
For sub-ohm builds use 26,24,22 gauge Kanthal it won't collapse on you under heat and usage. The OCC coils for the sub-tank by Kanger are running 24 gauge wire and at 0.50 ohms if that helps.

 

[Tactix]

I don't like kayfun atomizers because they are really tight draw and if you sub-ohm with them they tend to give a burned taste but that is just me personally. If you would like a tank rebuildable atomizer that will run sub-ohm and have the airflow to give you a pleasant vape look into an EhPro billow or a UD Goblin they are both capable of sub-ohm with excellent flavor and great airflow like an RDA without the inconvenience of having to drip juice all the time.
The Kayfun line of atomizers weren't designed for people looking to sub-ohm they were meant to be used on devices that are now very weak in power by today's standards like an MVP 2.0 which was only 11 watts they weren't to be pushed above 15 maybe 20 watts max. With the wattage war that manufacturers are in for the biggest, baddest, most powerful mods, the kayfun and genesis style atomizers are a bit of a relic.
Now there are demands for tank atomizers that will perform like a RDA and in comes the Lemo, Billow, Atlantis, Kanger Sub-tanks, Delta II, UD Goblin, and so on.
For sub-ohm builds use 26,24,22 gauge Kanthal it won't collapse on you under heat and usage. The OCC coils for the sub-tank by Kanger are running 24 gauge wire and at 0.50 ohms if that helps.

Thank you, that really helped I've decided to buy a 50ft roll of 26 gauge kanthal from temco on ebay.

 

[Foggyroomz]

I'm currently running dual 26 gauge crown coils in my Tobh @ 0.35 ohms and run it @ 65 watts on my Sigelei 150 watt box as my all day vape. I have dual 7 wrap 22 gauge micro coils wrapped on 5/64ths bit @ 0.20 ohms in my plume veil and run it at 125 watts it is a very warm to hot vape but it rocks. So if you want to sub ohm go 26 gauge and down for your builds but get an atomizer with good airflow because at these kinds of builds the lack of airflow will cause burned and dry hits.

 

[Tactix]

I'm currently running dual 26 gauge crown coils in my Tobh @ 0.35 ohms and run it @ 65 watts on my Sigelei 150 watt box as my all day vape. I have dual 7 wrap 22 gauge micro coils wrapped on 5/64ths bit @ 0.20 ohms in my plume veil and run it at 125 watts it is a very warm to hot vape but it rocks. So if you want to sub ohm go 26 gauge and down for your builds but get an atomizer with good airflow because at these kinds of builds the lack of airflow will cause burned and dry hits.

Awesome advice Thanks What are the best new available RTA's and RDA's? I want to upgrade from the kayfun but have no idea which direction I should head in, thanks in advance.

 

[Tactix]

So, do you guys think I got ripped off? I am already considering taking it back due to the fact that it does not have passthrough charging, and the u20 does, did not even consider that last night... Wonder if they'll let me trade it in for the cheaper one and give the rest of the money as store credit or something?

 

[sparkky1]

If your interested in RDA / RTA then I would suggest something with a better chip set ....

 

[Tactix]

If your interested in RDA / RTA then I would suggest something with a better chip set ....

I would, but the store I bought it at only has the mvp 2 for around the same price I got this at, and the main problem with that being it only hits 11 watts, which is pretty much a no go for me because my itaste vv couldn't do nearly anything this current mod does at 20 watts, which is obvious, but I found I like 20 watts, so the u20 would be fine, plus the sub-ohm capabilities are not comparable to anything in their store, which sucks, because it limits me to just about these 2 mods or a sentinel mech mod.

 

[edyle]

So, do you guys think I got ripped off? I am already considering taking it back due to the fact that it does not have passthrough charging, and the u20 does, did not even consider that last night... Wonder if they'll let me trade it in for the cheaper one and give the rest of the money as store credit or something?

Not everything has passthrough charging; to the contrary, most stuff does not.

 

[edyle]

I would, but the store I bought it at only has the mvp 2 for around the same price I got this at, and the main problem with that being it only hits 11 watts, which is pretty much a no go for me because my itaste vv couldn't do nearly anything this current mod does at 20 watts, which is obvious, but I found I like 20 watts, so the u20 would be fine, plus the sub-ohm capabilities are not comparable to anything in their store, which sucks, because it limits me to just about these 2 mods or a sentinel mech mod.

I've got a sentinel m16 with floating pin; the floating pin has a spring in it so I can screw on any 510 tank snugly on it and then screw it onto the mod.
Thinking of picking up another one/2/3; mostly to be able to supply friends.
The downsides:
1: strange threading; haven't figured out what it is yet; might be m22x1
the privatev2 has *almost* the same threading.
2: too short by itself to take a 18650 and a kick; but if I get a second one I can add an extra tube and get more length.
But it could work with a 18350 and a kick so I might put it together that way for a friend of mine that's still smoking.

 

[readeuler]

Here's what I think.

You've got a bit of a fixation on sub-ohm, and that's perfectly OK; I couldn't wait to ditch my 15 watt VTR for something with some more chutzpah. Just realize that in the broader vaping context, you're probably looking for high-power vaping; sending a lot of watts to your atomizer.

On a mech, decreasing the resistance is the only way to get more power. But your 30W mod can put 30 watts into a variety of coils, most likely. So while you need a 0.5 ohm coil (sub-ohm) on a mech to get around 30 watts, you can currently put 30 watts into a variety of coils; from 0.3 ohms to probably 1.5 ohms or more. This is a huge advantage over a mech.

The issue, like you're realizing, is the Kayfun: It's simply not meant for high-powered vaping (be it with sub-ohm builds or a 2 ohm coil). The biggest bottleneck with a kayfun is probably the airflow; there's just too much heat and vapor going through a small route, and not enough airflow to keep things smooth.

So, that being the case, I'd recommend a dripper, something like a Plume Veil or Stillare. Many RDAs are meant for lots of airflow, which is pretty much a necessity to use a lot of watts. That's what I'd look into.

For what it's worth, as long as your 30W mod doesn't fall apart, I think you made a perfectly good choice. It will put out more watts than the u20, which is something you seem interested in.

 

[aki917]

Once you go rda it's hard to come back to tank well that was my case any way. I've started with atomic then got veritas, manta v2, dark hose in that order. Than got tired dripping while driving [emoji14] so try to get rta. Got kayfun v4 clone ( airflow was not enough ) than kanger sub mini ( like the flavor and air was ok not great ) and after that got lemo drop ( I like kanger sub mini way better due to the fact you don't have to drain e juice when you try to build a new coil and airflow was bit better on kanger) well later going to buy goblin wish what I hear is true lol. Right now my favorite rda is atomic and dark horse and tank is kanger sub mini and kayfun v4 coil on tank is 0.3 ohm single 26g. Using 3 mech mod and one box mod. If u want to make 0.3-0.7 on a tank u should get goblin or kanger sub mini. For a RDA I like dark horse due to mass airflow and not too pricy flavor isn't too bad on it as well. Also stingray x clones from infinite was great it's hard to tell deference from authentic and it hits pretty much same just have to work on a switch a little bit.