Got my new GGTS today and it doesn't seem to work properly

[Dellboy]

Hello there,

As the tittle says I received my brand new GGTS TMF version today and I'm not getting much vapour from it.

The best way I can describe it is that it vapes like a PV does when the battery is about to die. So the connection is there but something is not right.

I changed the battery 3 times each time for a one freshly charged one. Just to be sure I then tried the same battery and Atty on another PV and that vapes like a train.

All I have done since getting my GG is nolox the main body parts and apply silicone grease ( food grade ) to the collector tank.

I'd be very grateful if some kind sole could point out my error(s) or could share some hints and tips with me to get my GG going properly.

Tx Dell.

 

[v2kjok3rz]

if you have a multimeter maybe you can check how much voltage is coming out when you activate it?

 

[Dellboy]

if you have a multimeter maybe you can check how much voltage is coming out when you activate it?

No I don't - probably should get one but currently I am without.

 

[eastman]

How would you check that? I have a multi meter and on occasion have the same trouble with mine.

 

[Para]

Since you don't have a meter yet, have you put a drop of Noalox on the center pin where it contacts the battery? How about a drop on the button switch plunger where it contacts the end cap post? Also, make sure the center pin is traveling up to make solid contact with the atty.

Since this is a SS model, make sure you grease the threads to prevent galling.

 

[Dellboy]

There's another thing which is concerning me - what is the spring at the base of the GG made out of - mine is a kinda dull gray colour. Should it not be made out of copper, like the bottom springs they have in other mods, this would surely help with conductivity.

The hot springs made from pure copper made a big difference when they were introduced to other mods

 

[Dellboy]

Since you don't have a meter yet, have you put a drop of Noalox on the center pin where it contacts the battery? How about a drop on the button switch plunger where it contacts the end cap post? Also, make sure the center pin is traveling up to make solid contact with the atty.

Since this is a SS model, make sure you grease the threads to prevent galling.

I have not put nolox on the center pin or on the button plunger - you make it sound like I should be.

I thought it would inhibit conductivity rather than enhance it.

The center pin is making solid contact with the atty.

As stated in the OP I have noloxed all the treads on the GG body and used silicone grease on all the threads of the collection tank, I believe that this will prevent galling.

 

[Poppa D]

Try cleaning the threads and try it dry.

 

[Wylie]

These may sound silly, but I'm just throwing things out without seeing your device...

• Be sure your button lock is all the way open.
• Clean the button's internal surface.
• Without a battery in the base, check that you're getting a full connection from the button end (inside) to the post (where the spring sits).
• Make sure your atomizer center post is making a connection to your atomizer. Remove the atomizer, push the center post all the way through, and then screw on the atomizer. You should see it push the center post down.
• Check the center contact of your atomizer. It may have a little screw that is recessed. You may be able to unscrew that out a little. Note: I've never done this, but know several people who have.
• Add a dab of Noalox to your button's post. It can be a good conductor.
• Make sure your battery is contacting the center post. Can you hear or feel the battery moving inside?

EDIT: What size battery are you using?
EDIT #2: Do you have the collector tank on with the cap? Is the air open?

Again, sorry if these sound dumb...

 

[silentt]

I would probably just throw it away... in a shipping box and address it to me I'm just kidding

Clean everything up and re-apply everything, when you tighten the telescope try not to over tighten it.

 

[Rick.45cal]

I'm with Poppa D on this. The threads in the body actually only need a small amount of vaseline, or whatever, to prevent galling. Too much might be inhibiting your your connection between parts. Just my $.02

 

[atavanhalen]

I'm with Poppa D on this. The threads in the body actually only need a small amount of vaseline, or whatever, to prevent galling. Too much might be inhibiting your your connection between parts. Just my $.02

Yeah, I have heard that overdoing it with the lube keeps the current from flowing. Curious to hear what happens, there really are not many things it could be.

 

[Titan Vapes]

The beauty of an all mechanical mod; everything can be fixed. After you clean it up I suspect you'll report back tomorrow saying how awesome it is ever since. Follow the guidance from those above and all should be fine.

 

[RippleInStillWater]

I'm just spitballing here but why wouuld you use Noalox (No Aluminum Oxide) on any SS one???

 

[Para]

I'm just spitballing here but why wouuld you use Noalox (No Aluminum Oxide) on any SS one???

It's an anti oxidant primarily for alum....not sure why he's got in on the threads. Threads should have a VERY LIGHT coating of vasoline to prevent galling. Since he has it I suggested the two areas to make sure he's got contact.

 

[eyebrook]

Isnt Silicone an insulator, might make no diff on the collector tank threads, but has it been spread around a bit? just my 2 cents worth

 

[Vaypor_Phi]

I had a similar issue when I first started using a GGTS. My problem was with using Tenergy batteries. I had two 3V batteries on a 2ohm atty. The PCB on the batteries did not allow the watts it created.

Please tell us what batteries you are using and what kind of atomizer. Ie standard 2ohm 510 atty with two Tenergy batteries.

This will help us get a better idea of your problem, and help you resolve it.

 

[Rick.45cal]

That has baffled a few folks Vaypor!

 

[Dellboy]

These may sound silly, but I'm just throwing things out without seeing your device...

• Be sure your button lock is all the way open.
• Clean the button's internal surface.
• Without a battery in the base, check that you're getting a full connection from the button end (inside) to the post (where the spring sits).
• Make sure your atomizer center post is making a connection to your atomizer. Remove the atomizer, push the center post all the way through, and then screw on the atomizer. You should see it push the center post down.
• Check the center contact of your atomizer. It may have a little screw that is recessed. You may be able to unscrew that out a little. Note: I've never done this, but know several people who have.
• Add a dab of Noalox to your button's post. It can be a good conductor.
• Make sure your battery is contacting the center post. Can you hear or feel the battery moving inside?

EDIT: What size battery are you using?
EDIT #2: Do you have the collector tank on with the cap? Is the air open?

Again, sorry if these sound dumb...

Tx for all your thoroughly sensible suggestions Wylie - I will go though them all with ya

My button lock is fully open

I haven't cleaned the buttons internal surface but having checked it, it looks spotless.

I am getting a good connection between the button and the internal post.

I have connected the atty exactly as you suggest as such I believe I have a good connection between it and the the post.

I know what you mean about the atty centre contact. I'm using a 306 it has no moveable screw

I haven't put nolox on the centre post - I wasn't sure if this would enhance or would inhibit the conection.

The centre post has a spring coming from it. this spring is dead central so I would assume good contact is been made.

my battery is a AW 18650 2900mah

I have the collector tank on with the value fully open - the holes are clear too.

 

[Dellboy]

Ok guys - I left it alone last night - I just wanted to chill and vape after a day of frustration.

Today I took the top of the collector tank and replaced the XL drip tip I was using ( i needed to use it, to use the collector tank and the variable draw) with my fav glass drip tip. Not a change that would effect anything I wouldn't have thought.

Anyhows I just fired it up leaving everything the same - just to make sure it wasn't working.

Miraculously it worked fine and is still working fine now four hours later. I haven't a clue what has happened overnight and feel even more of an idiot now than I did when I posted my original question lol

I'd still like to know what was going on but if it continues to vape ok the I won't really care.

All I can think of is that after all my fiddling yesterday it has removed enough nolox for a good conection to now be made and that I had applied too much nolox to start with.

The reason I used nolox is because it's what I have used on all my other mods previously and it has worked fine. I used food grade silicone grease on the collector tank because I didn't want to risk vaping nolox ( or Vaseline for that matter ) and figured that silicone grease would be safe and better up to the job with it's heat resistant properties than anything else.