Guess what I got in the mail today?

[lvm111]

Are you talking about the Provari there, (firing when checking ohms and batt)?

Yes the Provari. It fires at a reduced rate when checking the battery, and at an even further reduced rate when checking ohms. When it is turned on of course. You can still check the battery and ohms when it is turned off, but the measurements will be different. Vastly lower on the ohms checker.

I found that out the hard way. I thought it was turned on, but it was off. Going through the menu is the same either way. My PT2 was reading 1.2 ohms (should have been 2.5), and I thought something was seriously screwed up. At the same time I was trying to vape and the damn thing got flooded since it wasn't even turned on. Also I had been holding it while riding in a car and it got heated up. So it really confused me until I finally realized what was going on.

The Provari is a different breed for sure!

best regards, larry mac

 

[Trayce]

@ larry mac ... wow. That is one strange beast. Odd choices for the designers to make, IYAM.

Now that a few people have ordered the air flow controller (AFC) I thought I'd share some pictures so people don't damage the Vamo when installing.

When you put the AFC on the Vamo, it will be fully seated but (like other devices) will leave a small gap. Don't try to eliminate the gap, just wind up the collar on the Vamo to close the gap and lock the AFC in place.

Before you screw on the Protank (or other device), loosen the top ring of the AFC. It is reverse threaded. If you don't loosen it ahead of time it might be hard to ONLY turn that ring without turning something else (once the tank is on).

When you screw in the Protank it will also leave a gap between its base and the top ring of the AFC. Again don't try to eliminate the gap. Just wind up the top ring of the AFC to meet the base of the PT2. Make it snug to stabilize everything and tighten the draw. Or if you don't want to tighten the draw wind it up but leave a small gap for airflow. Even if you leave a gap for airflow you are still saving the Vamo threads from wear and tear by using the AFC.

Here are some pics:








[url=http://postimg.org/image/b5ygdali3/]

 

[FirebornMuse]

Thanks Trayce! What a great little tutorial! I will probably end up making it tighter between air flow controller and my tank. I saw this video on youtube by vaporladylounge or something like that and she cut a piece of plastic and slipped it on the protank to make it a tighter draw... I followed in her footsteps but this lil device is about to make everything all okay. I'll be glad not to have to worry about the threads. I'm using 'kid gloves' with it for now until my order arrives

 

[Trayce]

[...] I will probably end up making it tighter between air flow controller and my tank. I saw this video on youtube by vaporladylounge or something like that and she cut a piece of plastic and slipped it on the protank to make it a tighter draw... I followed in her footsteps but this lil device is about to make everything all okay. I'll be glad not to have to worry about the threads. I'm using 'kid gloves' with it for now until my order arrives

The thing to remember is that when you screw anything on to the Vamo once you're getting resistance only give it maybe 1/4 more turn. To see if the device is truly seated against the pin, press and hold the top, right-hand, small button on the Vamo to check ohms. If the Vamo can tell you the ohms you know the pins are making good contact and the device is installed properly. If you get "9.9 ohms" that means it doesn't detect anything. You can give another quarter turn (as long as it isn't tight) and try again. If it still doesn't register there might be something wrong with the atty.

Of course you can't check the ohms of the AFC but again, it will leave a gap so don't try to eliminate that gap (except by raising the collar)... and once you screw on the PT2 you can check ohms.

Also when installing anything, whether the AFC or a tank, hold whatever you are installing very lightly/gingerly so that you can feel if it's threading properly. It should require very little "help" to screw on. I tend to stand the Vamo straight up when I install anything, rather than holding it at an angle. It you stand it straight up the device will automatically get pulled into the threads as you turn, providing it's not cross-threaded. If you hold it at a horizontal angle you have to apply a little pressure as you turn, which makes it a little harder to tell if it's going on right or not.

I have done this from the beginning and my threads are fine and my pin never got depressed, as some people have experienced. But it's thanks to those people I knew to do this from the start.

EDIT: Btw, if the AFC doesn't tighten the draw enough for you, you can always fill one of the air channels on the bottom of the PT2 base, or plug the hole in the threaded neck of the PT2 base. But I would recommend using something you can remove until you test it to make sure it won't be TOO tight before using something more permanent (like hot glue)... not that you couldn't dig it back out, but...

 

[FirebornMuse]

awwweeessooommmeee... My Air Flow Controller shipped today should have it soooooooon.

 

[darkmader]

My AFC got shipped yesterday too. Thanks for the tutorial and will hopefully bring life back to my V2 but the threads could be completely shot but I also have a V5 coming so that will hopefully add some protection. I screwed up my V1 with the 510 adapter as it pushed the pin down too much and one guy posted that the AFC could possibly do that too so the was talking about filing heads from different tanks etc etc... but I'm not going to bother and just make sure it's not overtightened and hope for the best..

 

[Trayce]

My AFC got shipped yesterday too. Thanks for the tutorial and will hopefully bring life back to my V2 but the threads could be completely shot but I also have a V5 coming so that will hopefully add some protection. I screwed up my V1 with the 510 adapter as it pushed the pin down too much and one guy posted that the AFC could possibly do that too so the was talking about filing heads from different tanks etc etc... but I'm not going to bother and just make sure it's not overtightened and hope for the best..

Yeah the mistake people make is thinking they have to close that gap. On the V3 and V5 just raise the collar of the Vamo to meet the base of the AFC. No need for filing anything.

 

[twgbonehead]

Sorry, I just caught this. The air flow controller can only tighten a draw [for some devices], but it can't make a device with a tight draw looser. To do that you need to modify the device itself with the tight draw by drilling an air hole into the base or some such remedy.

As for tightening a draw, it depends on how the device is built. Some PVs have air channels cut into the top, and many tanks have air channels cut into the base. The air flow controller does not have air channels on the top ring, so depending on if you snug it up tight to the base of the device (eg a Protank), or leave a small gap, you can tighten the draw or leave it unaffected. I personally prefer my Protank 2 with the air controller as it tightens it up just a bit.

Other devices that have an eGo cone thread have air holes in the base and this air controller only works with 510, not eGo devices. There is another air flow controller for eGo devices that has a ring you can screw up over the conical base to partially block those air holes and tighten the draw.

So I got this air flow controller to tighten up the draw of the PT2, but also to protect not just the threads of the Vamo but also if a tank leaks it leaks on to the air flow controller pin, not on to the Vamo pin. (Not that it matters since the Vamo pin is sealed with a grommet, but...) Just one more layer of protection.

Thanks, Trayce! Actually the tanks on their own draw fine, but when I put them on my mods they get too tight to draw on. Loosening them very slightly helps, but can't loosen them enough or they don't make contact. So not sure if these will help or not, but it's worth a try. If nothing else I'll turn them into homemade mods or use them as thread-protectors instead...

Cheap enough, so wth.

 

[darkmader]

Yeah the mistake people make is thinking they have to close that gap. On the V3 and V5 just raise the collar of the Vamo to meet the base of the AFC. No need for filing anything.

I'm sure I'll figure it out when I get my AFC and V5 but 2 questions. When I raise my collar you say lock the AFC. How do you go about doing that? Also with AFC's when changing tanks or whatever I take it you unscrew the reverse section of it all the way out, then put a new tank on it, then screw it back into the base of the AFC?

 

[Trayce]

Thanks, Trayce! Actually the tanks on their own draw fine, but when I put them on my mods they get too tight to draw on. Loosening them very slightly helps, but can't loosen them enough or they don't make contact. So not sure if these will help or not, but it's worth a try. If nothing else I'll turn them into homemade mods or use them as thread-protectors instead...

Cheap enough, so wth.

Yes, using them as a thread protector is putting them to good use... and if you want to create an airier draw you can drill a tiny hole into the very top of the threaded neck on the device. Look for an existing hole (like on the PT2 there is a tiny hole if you look closely) then drill one opposite it. Grimm Green had this cool little hand tool that wasn't electric but some type of little widget thingy that you turn by hand (almost like a screwdriver) to make very small holes for this purpose. But I've seen dozens of his vids and don't know which one it was in. Otherwise I don't know if they make drill bits small enough but it would be easy enough to track down the best way to add a hole by Googling or even asking in the "Ask The Veterans" section of ECF.

 

[Trayce]

I'm sure I'll figure it out when I get my AFC and V5 but 2 questions. When I raise my collar you say lock the AFC. How do you go about doing that?

Just a figure of speech -- when you snug up the collar against the AFC it locks both pieces, meaning it keeps them from turning. Keeps the AFC from inadvertently being screwed down further [into the pin] when putting tanks on, and the AFC keeps the collar locked up against it so it doesn't unscrew down again. I give the collar a solid little twist to lock it against the AFC. Doesn't need pounds of pressure or anything but turn it tighter than you do when putting on a tank... turn it until it stops and you can't turn it anymore, then give it a little extra crank to make sure it stays there.

Also with AFC's when changing tanks or whatever I take it you unscrew the reverse section of it all the way out, then put a new tank on it, then screw it back into the base of the AFC?

The reverse-top ring WILL unscrew completely from the bottom ring, so don't lose it. Your method would work fine and is probably the best way to do it. I might try it! . What I do is wedge my thumbnail on top of the AFC's top ring as I unscrew the tank so that the ring stays in place. Then I give it a little turn to wind it down before seating the next tank to make sure the tank gets seated properly and isn't being kept from the pin by the top ring being too high. Once the tank is seated, I screw up the top ring to meet the tank.

All roads lead to Rome.

 

[specter9mm]

Finally got my VAMO V3 in the mail today after a month and a half. Amazing improvement to the PCB. This thing is awesome. I don't know why so many people hated the spiraling. I kind of like it.

 

[Trayce]

Finally got my VAMO V3 in the mail today after a month and a half. Amazing improvement to the PCB. This thing is awesome. I don't know why so many people hated the spiraling. I kind of like it.

I love it. Imo some people used to the smooth look of the V2 simply didn't like the new version and that attitude sort of started a snowball affect. I like the swirls better than the smooth. Makes it more interesting and nice to feel. The V3 is perfect AFAIC except for not having a removable/serviceable top like the V2 has. If they make a V6 I hope it's the V3 with said top... but please keep everything else the same, including the swirls!

 

[donesmokin]

Thanks for that tip! Never seen those before, and was looking for something just like that!

Got this interesting note from vermillion:

Rewards Notification


This is an automated notification from Vermillion River LLC to let you know that 4.99999999999998E-02 points have been rewarded to you for your order

Damn, I was really hoping to get that extra .00000000000002E-02 points, to make it an even .05! Then it would only have been 20 more purchases just like that to get to a whole point!"

(Sorry for the snark, I actually have high hopes that the airflow adapter will fix some hard-draw problems I'm having with some combos. Just thought the e-mail was a bit feeble for a "thank you" and too bizarre not to share!)

After a few days the draw on my carto tanks gets too stiff for me. An unsealed 510/510 adapter helps.

 

[FirebornMuse]

I love the swirls... and the chrome! I may get a black chrome one next.... unless I end up with a zmax instead, just got my air flow controller today... about to install it

 

[Trayce]

Btw you cannot leave the top ring attached to the base of a tank... there are no threads on it for that... only to connect to the bottom ring. So have to take tanks off by holding the top ring in place with a thumbnail or whatever, while unscrewing the tank. (Which you know by now since you got your AFC.)

 

[FirebornMuse]

ya, no worries there! I'm so glad I don't have to worry about the threads anymore! yay yay yay. I'm lovin' my VAMO