guessing game: which 2.5 will be the last to go?

[DPLongo22]

I guess my issue is I am a newbie when it comes to the 2.5 Provaris. I came to the party with a P3 as my first Provari and so I was a bit backward from everybody else in that I learned to use that menu system comfortably first. Now I just got my first 2.5 last week and have the learning curve of a "new" menu system, with its own unique style of battery meter display.

So I'm still figuring out what 3.6V means in terms of battery life because I'm used to seeing 53% left instead. And not having a screen light up every time you press the fire button seems a little strange to me right now because I've gotten so used to reading the P3 screen. It's a different experience entirely. I just need more exposure to it.

A full battery reads in a 4.2, but will move off that quite quickly (because technically that's being boosted from the base 3.7 voltage the battery puts out). Most 2.5's will begin blinking at 3.4, then cut off around 3.2. It'll hang at 3.7-3.8 for quite some time. Once it drops from 3.7 you're literally in real-time.

You'll quickly come to know approximate life of each battery type, and a clock will probably be your best indicator (once you gain some confidence and understanding).

My batteries rarely ever even make it to the blinking point. I swap 'em.

 

[scotdc]

A full battery reads in a 4.2, but will move off that quite quickly (because technically that's being boosted from the base 3.7 voltage the battery puts out). Most 2.5's will begin blinking at 3.4, then cut off around 3.2. It'll hang at 3.7-3.8 for quite some time. Once it drops from 3.7 you're literally in real-time.

You'll quickly come to know approximate life of each battery type, and a clock will probably be your best indicator (once you gain some confidence and understanding).

My batteries rarely ever even make it to the blinking point. I swap 'em.

I know this has been asked around here somewhere before but I can't find it now. The blinking is at a little lower percentage than the new P3 update at 17%, right? Somewhere around 5 or 10%?

 

[DPLongo22]

I know this has been asked around here somewhere before but I can't find it now. The blinking is at a little lower percentage than the new P3 update at 17%, right? Somewhere around 5 or 10%?

Not really. It's 2 points on a ten point range (3.2 to 4.2), so my guess would be closer to 15-20%. I don't believe it's an exact science though, so it's possible that it's as low as 10% (but I'm guessing here).

 

[YoursTruli]

I'm gonna give the GMZ a whirl over the weekend, if it's as tough as everyone is saying it's probably worth keeping. Besides I only have 4 Provari tube mods - I feel like a poor stepchild.

Now if I can only talk Provape out of an extension ring for the GMZ... I know they have them available for the Classic GMZ but they don't list them individually on the web site.

Count me in for a GMZ extension ring! It would be fantastic if they offered them for sale separately

 

[ENAUD]

Sorry, what I meant was seeing the battery display and everything else every time you fire, rather than clicking through the menu to specifically check it. I know it's not really necessary, but it's kinda comforting to always having that display on the screen. The Classics are like that too, right?

I have a Classic and really like the mod, you gets battery level ( a simple battery icon that goes from full to empty), resistance, ohms, and volts / watts set to.

 

[scotdc]

I have a Classic and really like the mod, you gets battery level ( a simple battery icon that goes from full to empty), resistance, ohms, and volts / watts set to.

Thanks Enaud. I always wondered about the Classic. You don't see them showing up for sale in the classifieds, and we have massively long threads here about the P3 and the Radius and quite a bit of love for the 2.5 but hardly a peep about the Classic.

I was wondering if people thought it was dud and just sprang the extra $50 for the P3, or if it wasn't enough of an improvement over the 2.5 to be worth mentioning.

 

[BreSha6869]

Thanks Enaud. I always wondered about the Classic. You don't see them showing up for sale in the classifieds, and we have massively long threads here about the P3 and the Radius and quite a bit of love for the 2.5 but hardly a peep about the Classic.

I was wondering if people thought it was dud and just sprang the extra $50 for the P3, or if it wasn't enough of an improvement over the 2.5 to be worth mentioning.

I use a Classic almost every day. It is a great device and I have no idea why it doesn't sell much more. I think the battery meter, variable wattage, P3 connector and just the chip/menu in general is worth the additional $$$ over a 2.5. Obviously that goes out the window with the $29.95 blems as I would rather have 5 2.5s over 1 Classic.

The extra hundred bucks for the P3 isn't worth what you get over a Classic IMO/IME. My polished silver P3 was a super cheap Craigslist find but if I did it again, my Zombie P3 I bought new would be a Zombie Classic and a Kabuki tank for the same $$$.

 

[Just Me]

I use a Classic almost every day. It is a great device and I have no idea why it doesn't sell much more. I think the battery meter, variable wattage, P3 connector and just the chip/menu in general is worth the additional $$$ over a 2.5. Obviously that goes out the window with the $29.95 blems as I would rather have 5 2.5s over 1 Classic.

The extra hundred bucks for the P3 isn't worth what you get over a Classic IMO/IME. My polished silver P3 was a super cheap Craigslist find but if I did it again, my Zombie P3 I bought new would be a Zombie Classic and a Kabuki tank for the same $$$.

I decided to upgrade from my 2.5s when everyone was talking about vaping in wattage mode being better. Comparing the chart showing the features of both, I couldn't see springing for the extra money for the P3, and I didn't particularly like the design on the tube anyway. I'm perfectly happy with the Classic, use it every day.

 

[tearose50]

I think the Classic has a great tube body design, looking more like the original mini 2.0 than the 2.5 and ties with the Celtic Knot for great looks. From the pictures, the ProCyon looks the best yet, to me.

As they came out with the P3 first, I'd say many interested ProVi users had already upgraded before the Classic came out and didn't hoard more ProVi's until the 2.5 sales were simply too good to resist.

Seems to me the Classic was exactly what many vapers had been asking for, a more modern type of display and flat top, ProVi reputation for quality, of materials, of vape and safety. With a couple less features and the common bar graph for battery power remaining and the much more familiar VV or VW power choice, it could have replaced the 2.5 in B&M's easily.

 

[440BB]

The Satin Silver 2.5's in the Specials page dropped from $49.95 to $39.95 today. Best price for a non-blem ever!

 

[Freedom2Vape]

The Satin Silver 2.5's in the Specials page dropped from $49.95 to $39.95 today. Best price for a non-blem ever!

and a better price than $49.95 with the 10% flash sale discount!

 

[Capt.shay]

Ok folks, my 2.5 fires then stops and 23 appears on the screen. What does this code represent?

 

[440BB]

I'm guessing it's an E2 error that is upside down - here's a thread where somebody else had the same experience - Error 23?

In a nutshell, it likely means the resistance of your topper is too low for the 2.5 to fire it. Adjusting the voltage down may work. Good luck!

 

[Capt.shay]

I'm guessing it's an E2 error that is upside down - here's a thread where somebody else had the same experience - Error 23?

In a nutshell, it likely means the resistance of your topper is too low for the 2.5 to fire it. Adjusting the voltage down may work. Good luck!

Winner, winner chicken dinner!

I have been running a 1.1ohm coil at 3.8v. I somehow managed to bump it up to 4.2v inadvertently. Turned it back down and life is good again.

Thank you my friend.

 

[Katdarling]

You are so right about the different finishes. I love my Celtic Knot - that satin finish is just brilliant, no fingerprints and a delight to touch. On the other hand, I absolutely hated my Titanium Stealth P3. It was rough and tacky to the touch and fingerprints and oil just lived on the surface - it always seemed dirty to me.

I'm liking the ceramic finish on my Titanium White mini too. On the other hand, I'm still on the fence about the Zenkote. Just got a GMZ mini yesterday and I don't know - it seems kind of "rubbery" as in my fingers don't glide over it like you would expect from a polished finish. I'm getting annoyed with the fingerprints too, having to constantly rub it clean is a PIA. It might go back to Provape for a Satin Black or Deep Sea Blue!

I had lunch in a Chinese restaurant the other day, but the chicken was terrible. So I called the waiter over and I said, “This chicken is rubbery.”
And the waiter said, “Ahh, thank you. Thank you velly much.”



<slinking off>

I was just going to say that I ordered one



11 clicks and you better be ready to slap it to your lips or you'll burn your cotton. Silly, silly feature.

LOL, I can see how you'd think so, Cap'n. When the 2.5s came around, I don't think we were vaping cotton wicks. It's a feature of the chip to check the resistance and batt level while giving the device a quick few seconds fire. Once aware of it, you'll prolly never burn a cotton ever again. You were checking batt life on a non-liquefied wick?

 

[xstitch]

Mini pink ribbon blem and a GMZ P3 blem listed!
Plus a few regular size blems

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Capt.shay]

Oh my, it's on again! A bunch of colors listed.

Edit: Ok, so my Achilles does not screw down flush on my P2 cone top and I have already had some cross threading due to drops. With the P3 top do they change out the 510 connection? If so, does it have more give than the original?

 

[tearose50]

Really? I've never heard of the ProVi threads getting damaged.

Yes, the entire top portion is changed out.

The 510 connection parts of the P3 flat top are replaceable. (and can be found at the parts and rings area)

The actual connection has a little give, too. It's not spring loaded, but a new design by the ProVi people.

 

[tearose50]

I found this picture that should make it more clear:

 

[Capt.shay]

I found this picture that should make it more clear:

View attachment 548653

Do you or any one know if you can back the inner nut out a little so it will snug up to the bottom of my addy or when you install it, does it have to be screwed all the way in. I'm trying to find a way to support the addy so the threads don't suffer again. I might send mine in for a convert if it will work to allow me to use my Achilles as it is my main atty.