halogen atomisers

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ISAWHIM

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Apr 15, 2009
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I like the halogen idea... I was just looking into alternative heating elements. I don't like the fact that the liquid comes in direct contact with a super-heated metal element. (Most elements like this are called dry-elements, and not designed for direct liquid contact. Thus, why I assume the high failure rate of the preferred method of heating device they use.)

I worked in a plastic injection molding plant for five years. We used thermocouplers, which are the same thing as the elements in these devices. However, they were large.

However, again, they have recently come to market with many new micro-injection machines. This may be a good thing for us, as this translates into super small heating devices.

I have done some research, and I did find two micro-halogen bulbs, designed as heating elements. They were a preferred design, due to the full glass enclosure, which can be in direct contact with the plastic and high pressure, without the need for a metal-buffer. (A metal buffer is commonly used between the heating element and the plastic, as it helps to transfer heat and keep plastic from directly contacting the heating element.)

I did also find an interesting series of thermo-couplers which were designed as micro-inline atomizers. They are shaped like a tiny band, with a hole through the center, for air/liquid to pass through. I could easily see a fiberglass wick running through there, with the air/vapor passing around the outer case.

The advantage with these devices, is that they are covered with a chemically inert protective layer, with the coils protected inside a high-thermal transfer material. (This stops them from burning up in the atmosphere. (That was the problem with the first light-bulb, the filament/element would get hot and burn-up instantly. As is the problem with our atomizers.)

I am looking for a few dead atomizers to play with, so that I may try to drop one into an existing device. I don't want to ruin my perfectly fine atomizers. (In time, I may have a few dead ones, but I clean well, so it will be a while.)

Actually, if any of you have other dead components, I will try to make arrangements for those too. (I have limited funds, and at the moment, can only offer to pay for shipping.)

I would love to have a good high quality replacement vaporizer. One that might cost more, but last forever.

FYI: The heating element in these devices is similar to the RC race-car glow-plugs, also found in RC airplane engines. It is just a high resistance wire core with a higher resistance outer protective layer. After many uses, the outer layer gets burned away, exposing the inner layer, which just burns-up once exposed.
 

mschwenk

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Nov 5, 2009
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DealExtreme has lots of really inexpensive lasers that cannot be sold and shipped in the U.S., but can be purchased elsewhere. It would require a redesign of the e-cig, but a laser heater for a lump-type atomizer might solve a lot of problems. Fraught with dangers, however. If anyone could do it, Trog could.


There are other places to get the lasers, sometimes ebay has them. (I just saw a 1000mw 808nm diode, it seems to fit the bill for using a laser for vaporizing purposes - 2.2 volts at 1.2 or 1.3 amps.) If it is >5mw the FDA has to approve of it, but that is not a hard process to go through. DealExtreme simply didn't bother going through the process as they get enough sales elsewhere.

On another note, I don't see a laser being a very good option. The laser would have to be blocked before it reached the cart. Using a mirror would simply bounce the beam back at the source, use of something else would simply heat up that part, eventually causing it to fail.
 

nick779

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most lazer do not provide enough heat, the ones that do are extremely expensive, way to large and not practical for the most part

not exactly, there are people on laser pointer forums that made a keychain cheapo laser pointer, into a half watt+ blue ray burner, granted that would be around $2-300 to buy, but you can make a half watt red pointer for under $100, and a quarter of a watt for under $50

i mean i have a blu ray pointer i made running at 90ma 4v i think producing 120mw and it will light a analog, my red is around 350ma making about 400mw with a special coated lense, so its possible to make a laser heat something,

especially when you can go on ebay and buy multiple watt diodes that just need a lense on them or to be close to what you want to heat up and their fairly cheap (under $40)
 

nick779

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There are other places to get the lasers, sometimes ebay has them. (I just saw a 1000mw 808nm diode, it seems to fit the bill for using a laser for vaporizing purposes - 2.2 volts at 1.2 or 1.3 amps.) If it is >5mw the FDA has to approve of it, but that is not a hard process to go through. DealExtreme simply didn't bother going through the process as they get enough sales elsewhere.

On another note, I don't see a laser being a very good option. The laser would have to be blocked before it reached the cart. Using a mirror would simply bounce the beam back at the source, use of something else would simply heat up that part, eventually causing it to fail.
infrared diodes need to be a much higher power level then that liek a 3-10w because the wavelength is so long it cant heat as effectively


sorry for the 2x post
 

JoshPrototype

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Nov 17, 2009
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Just a few thoughts of mine as I figured out ways to accomplish the first laser cig.

First of all an 8x CD-R burning laser produces about 125-150mw of power, and with such a low boiling point of PG, I could see this working provided the laser isn't directly heating the juice. For instance, instead of using the polyester filling inside a catridge, use stainless braid. Heat the braid with the laser and you'll never have to worry about wicking problems anymore, ofcourse it'll take a few seconds to heat the material up with only 150mw of power. So long slow puffs would need to be taken. However a blue ray diode would be fairly quick I would think at heating up the material.

Second I would suggest we wouldn't need any type of driver for the lazer as our batteries do a pretty good job at making sure a certain regulated curent is supplied once switched on, because Li-Ion would explode if not vented. If I'm correct on how the chip works inside the battery?

I mean, would you pay $50 for a laser powered atty that potentionally would never break unless dropped or misused? And ofcourse dripping would be out of the question when used like this but then again, if the catridge works as stated you woldn't need to drip anymore right?

Just my $0.02 cents.
 

kai kane

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Near da water ...
Wrap wire or flixible flatfoil heating element around ceramic wick which protrudes directly out of sealed and refillable fluid cartridge.

Or maybe a piece of a fishtank airstone might do the job.


Ceramic wicks
www DOT hung-hsin DOT com DOT tw/images/E_B10 DOT htm

was thinking the same thing - and see others have as well. anyone actually try any of these yet? And what is the first pic in your post, Vageorge??
 
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