Hammer Clone

[rucni]

ah i see thank you funk. now to find something to use so the button will make contact. might even hit the hardware store and see if i cant find a screw that will thread into the button that longer than stock.

 

[Funk Dracula]

ah i see thank you funk. now to find something to use so the button will make contact. might even hit the hardware store and see if i cant find a screw that will thread into the button that longer than stock.

Magnet spacers or pennies work in a pinch. Just make sure you have some o-rings or something to hold whatever spacer in place and insulate the sides with to prevent an auto-fire.

I hear fuses work as well, but I don't own any or tried that. Makes sense that they would work as well though.

Cheers

 

[suspectK]

Finally got around to fixing mine... just through a piece of copper I found in it.. next time I go to work, I'm going to get a larger size to fit snuggly. I'm so glad I finally got around to doing this. Easily my favorite mod.. now to figure out the adapter and lock ring being stuck.. tried all the usual tricks.

37, ph0n3 h0m3.

 

[rucni]

i found that the adapter for a faucet threaded into my hammer with a little of filing down i was able to get it to where i could screw the switch on and be able to use something as a spacer to make contact with the battery tube. havent tried it yet cause i dont have a charged 650 right now and nothing to use as a spacer. here is a picture of what i am talking about only the one i have is plastic.

i also filed down the bottom contact pin for a pt head and installed it between the 2 contacts for the 510 connector but until i have a chance to test it on a volt meter i dont know if its going to get rid of the voltage drop.

 

[mohitgarg]

Ordered my Hammer mod from angelcigs, I have also ordered the flat top cap from FT, now, what else do I need to use this so there is minimal voltage drop, switch works fine and switch and top cap reversed so 18650 batteries can be on the atty side.

From what I gather, I need two things fixed:
1. Something to make the switch heavier as it very light (What is the situation with the lock ring, does it work or not?)
2. Something to connect the switch to the brass battery shield? Can I just solder the brass shield and the switch screw using an insulated wire? How about 2-3 of these springs ($1.22 Battery/Driver Contact Support Spring for Flashlights DIY (10-Pack) 10-pack - 7mm diameter / 10mm height / 0.8mm wire diameter at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping) stacked inside a delrin tube to prevent shorting?

The Chi You top cap should take care of the voltage drop, correct?

 

[suspectK]

^fat daddy vapes has magnets for switch..I need to get a caliper, so I can just get them elsewhere.

37, ph0n3 h0m3.

 

[mohitgarg]

I am located in India, so getting these magnets would be a pain at a viable cost and not to mention the fact that since this is a clone, you never know what would fit and what wouldn't. I will wait for my mod to arrive and then measure to see what size magnets would work.

Any other fix, like using some other spring? How about the one linked in my previous post? And the lock ring, does it function as intended or not?

 

[KenD]

I am located in India, so getting these magnets would be a pain at a viable cost and not to mention the fact that since this is a clone, you never know what would fit and what wouldn't. I will wait for my mod to arrive and then measure to see what size magnets would work.

Any other fix, like using some other spring? How about the one linked in my previous post? And the lock ring, does it function as intended or not?

I like the locking ring, and the switch. Like it more than the Nemesis switch, though I'm probably one of the very few who are of that opinion. I haven't moded the switch at all. The top cap though, that's the real problem and the cause of most of the voltage drop. After various trials I chose take out the centre pin from the top cap, put alonger 510 pin in my Kayfun, and extend that through the hole in the top cap. A makeshift hybrid, and the voltage drop is on par with my Origin mech mod.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

 

[SteamHead]

I'm getting ready to order the hcigar clone from 101...I want the purple efest 18350's for the 10.5A limit, problem is, only the button tops are in stock. I know some combos have probs with the button tops. Will I be ok with this combo? Or should I just order one and get more flat-tops elsewhere?

Also, I saw someone in this thread using a hollow copper tubing to replace the center pin... is this a good method? Or should i locate some solid copper rod? What diameter should I be looking for? Is it just tension fit?

Sorry for all the questions lol, very excited to own my first e-pipe and first mech mod!

 

[bce22]

Steam, I don't know for a fact but my gut says you may run into a sizing issue with the button tops. Not that they won't work, but that it may look a little odd. The switch goes into this screw adapter part and this may stick out somewhat with the button tops. My flat top purple efest fit well but even with these the screw adapter isn't 100% flush with the hammer housing.

 

[SteamHead]

bce, thanks for all the help in both threads! I remembered someone posting a possible workaround (read all 47 pages yesterday lol) so i didi a quick thread search.

Button top 350's should work fine in the Hammer. If you screw the SS ring onto the switch first, and then screw that onto the body, you won't get the gap. You can also take a dremel and grind down the little nub inside the brass tube to help.

i was wondering if you or anyone else could confirm if this was true and workable on the Hcigar clone.


Also, how many 18350 batts would you guys recommend? I have a provari already, and this will probly just be for around-the-house vaping, so i was just gonna get two. A single 18350 lasts me close to a full day with a 1.8ohm Protank at ~3.8 volts, but I know low-ohm vaping sucks your batts much faster.

How low can your ohms be with a 10.5A battery?

 

[bce22]

Yeah that matches up with my thoughts. If it was me I'd order the purple flats from another vendor.

This place has them for $6.98 a piece. Might be worth sending them an email.

Efest 10.5Amp 700mAh 3.7V IMR 18350 Flat Top

 

[mohitgarg]

I like the locking ring, and the switch. Like it more than the Nemesis switch, though I'm probably one of the very few who are of that opinion. I haven't moded the switch at all. The top cap though, that's the real problem and the cause of most of the voltage drop. After various trials I chose take out the centre pin from the top cap, put alonger 510 pin in my Kayfun, and extend that through the hole in the top cap. A makeshift hybrid, and the voltage drop is on par with my Origin mech mod.


Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

Thanks, I saw on YT too, and some like the switch, some don't, so I guess I will wait and test ti myself and evaluate how I like it.



Anyone tried this combo, the hammer in the standard 18350 mode with an 18350 inside (Let's call the vertical bat), with the 18650 tube on the atty side housing a second 18350 (Let's call this horizontal bat) in series with the vertical-bat?

 

[Kemosabe]

bce, thanks for all the help in both threads! I remembered someone posting a possible workaround (read all 47 pages yesterday lol) so i didi a quick thread search.



i was wondering if you or anyone else could confirm if this was true and workable on the Hcigar clone.


Also, how many 18350 batts would you guys recommend? I have a provari already, and this will probly just be for around-the-house vaping, so i was just gonna get two. A single 18350 lasts me close to a full day with a 1.8ohm Protank at ~3.8 volts, but I know low-ohm vaping sucks your batts much faster.

How low can your ohms be with a 10.5A battery?

i personally dont feel comfortable going right up to the amp limit. i typically go within an amp or two as to leave a buffer zone. even though voltage drop does create it own buffer, i like to be doubly safe. i recommend no higher than 9 amps. but even only going to 9, you can still use a 0.5Ω coil (and i dont go lower than that anyway, even with my 18650s). a 0.5Ω coil will draw 8.4A on a fresh battery (assuming no voltage drop), well within the safety specs.

to arrive at these answers, use an ohms law calculator (ohmslawcalculator.com or one of several free phone/tablet apps)
plug in 4.2 for the voltage and then either plug in your desired amp draw to see what ohm coil to use, or plug in what ohm coil you'd like to use and compare that with the amp value given. you only need to plug in two values and the calculator will solve for the other two.

 

[bce22]

I go no lower than 0.7Ω. That's my comfort level.

 

[suspectK]

Anyone tried this combo, the hammer in the standard 18350 mode with an 18350 inside (Let's call the vertical bat), with the 18650 tube on the atty side housing a second 18350 (Let's call this horizontal bat) in series with the vertical-bat?

I don't follow...how would that extra battery not be self firing under the atomizer?

37, ph0n3 h0m3.

 

[mohitgarg]

This diagram should help:

 

[SteamHead]

That's a hell of an idea! I really don't like the look of the hammer when the main "block" has to be turned on its side.

 

[mohitgarg]

That's what prompted me to think of this, now the question is, is the 18650 extension tube long enough?

Perhaps someone with the mod could try it out and report

 

[SteamHead]

Series would double the battery life, not the voltage... correct?


EDIT: Nope, that'd double voltage. Isn't that dangerous? Vaping at 7-8V? I'd be all for a parallel circuit, though.