ah i see thank you funk. now to find something to use so the button will make contact. might even hit the hardware store and see if i cant find a screw that will thread into the button that longer than stock.
ah i see thank you funk. now to find something to use so the button will make contact. might even hit the hardware store and see if i cant find a screw that will thread into the button that longer than stock.
I am located in India, so getting these magnets would be a pain at a viable cost and not to mention the fact that since this is a clone, you never know what would fit and what wouldn't. I will wait for my mod to arrive and then measure to see what size magnets would work.
Any other fix, like using some other spring? How about the one linked in my previous post? And the lock ring, does it function as intended or not?
Button top 350's should work fine in the Hammer. If you screw the SS ring onto the switch first, and then screw that onto the body, you won't get the gap. You can also take a dremel and grind down the little nub inside the brass tube to help.
Thanks, I saw on YT too, and some like the switch, some don't, so I guess I will wait and test ti myself and evaluate how I like it.I like the locking ring, and the switch. Like it more than the Nemesis switch, though I'm probably one of the very few who are of that opinion. I haven't moded the switch at all. The top cap though, that's the real problem and the cause of most of the voltage drop. After various trials I chose take out the centre pin from the top cap, put alonger 510 pin in my Kayfun, and extend that through the hole in the top cap. A makeshift hybrid, and the voltage drop is on par with my Origin mech mod.
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bce, thanks for all the help in both threads! I remembered someone posting a possible workaround (read all 47 pages yesterday lol) so i didi a quick thread search.
i was wondering if you or anyone else could confirm if this was true and workable on the Hcigar clone.
Also, how many 18350 batts would you guys recommend? I have a provari already, and this will probly just be for around-the-house vaping, so i was just gonna get two. A single 18350 lasts me close to a full day with a 1.8ohm Protank at ~3.8 volts, but I know low-ohm vaping sucks your batts much faster.
How low can your ohms be with a 10.5A battery?
Anyone tried this combo, the hammer in the standard 18350 mode with an 18350 inside (Let's call the vertical bat), with the 18650 tube on the atty side housing a second 18350 (Let's call this horizontal bat) in series with the vertical-bat?