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This diagram should help:
Wanna come back to this... regardless that the battery that is below 510 cap doesn't have a load on it, the contacts are still engaged on that battery. So you will have one battery leading the other more so than it already will be...I recommend against doing this..at the very least don't make a habit of using the hammer this way.
37, ph0n3 h0m3.
This diagram should help:
It's not really going to fit. You'd have to screw like one thread on the cap to catch, and like one screw on the 18650 tube to catch. It'd barely be on and wonky as hell.
You'll have the same sort of issue stacking in the 18650 tube screwed in the regular way, it's really not going to fit.
I'm getting the impression maybe some people aren't understanding stacking batteries. I'm not going to be one of those guys and insist you not do it, I'm just going to say it's a pain in the balls and not really worth it.
Just to clarify, stacking 18350 batteries doubles the voltage, nothing more. It WILL NOT double the AMP LIMIT or LIFE of the battery. So, visit your ohms law calculator and what not, and plug in 8.4V instead of 4.2V. You'll quickly get up to a 10A draw right below .9Ω.
Vapers stacked batteries back in the day to get more out of high resistance 3.5Ω store bought cartomizers when that's all there was (no RDA's). No VV devices too. And even when it was trendy, it was RCR123 3V batteries that were stacked, giving you 6V, not the 8.4V your getting by stacking 4.2V 18350's.
Some VV devices use stacked batteries with a buck circuit. But your getting voltage adjustment and regulation (amp safety limit) out of the hassle of maintaining stacked pairs and what not.
I'm not implying nobody knows this stuff here, just covering the bases. I found a YT video channel a few weeks ago with a guy clearly under the impression that the 30A on his Sony meant how much power was going through his Innokin SVD. So you never know what people are reading and then thinking...
Better ideas:
- Get a high wattage vape out of a Hammer by just using an 18650 and a sub-ohm coil. Use the reverse assembly trick if you want to keep the pipe look.
- Put a Kick 2 under the 510 cap by using the 18490 tube. I don't have my Kick around, but somewhere back in this thread is a Hammer owner rocking it that way all day. If I recall the tube won't exactly screw down quite all the way flush, but it works.
- Read through this thread. Everything that can be done to a Hammer with success is pretty much covered at some point in this thread. There's a lot that can be done with the Hammer, it's part of it's curse and charm.
Cheers
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Physical constraints are my main concern. I know about the voltage being double and not the current or battery life, but even at 1ohm, you are looking at about 55W.
A single 18650 is better, I was merely suggesting an alternate configuration.
A single 18650 is better, I was merely suggesting an alternate configuration.
I finally ordered one. I really like it. Using 18490 efest w/Force Kick Adapter and Kanger Aerotank.
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Resurrecting a thread, but finally got the Hammer, Tobeco version. Replaced the topcap (POS!) with a Chiyou cap, put battery under atty, and it hits like a champ. Sadly the 18650 tube is too short to allow it to sit flush on the body, and much too short to allow me to adjust the pin so the atty sits flush on the cap. My battery is Sony 18650 vtc5. Is this normal for this configuration? What am I doing wrong?
This is my favorite Hammer configuration and yes, unfortunately it's normal without a little pin mod.
I totally removed the spring loaded pin under the atty cap and replaced it with a solid brass pin.
I made several different length pins to allow me to sit different attys flush.
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Thank you! The ones I have are flattops. The hammer is working really well right now. It hits hard, the chiyou top cap fits perfectly, the firing button is okay (not perfect), threads are fine. Would an 18650 tube from a King or Chiyou be a bit longer? tbh I wouldn't mind replacing the button, too.
Oh wow, I didn't think of that. Yes, the tube fits much better with the original cap. How did you make those brass pins?
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I work in a machine shop so I have access to different rod materials. I used 13/64 brass rod and it works quite well, fits in the stock delron insulator without much effort.
Basically I start with a 7mm pin length, assemble the hammer with atty, then measure the gap from the top cap to the atty base. I then file down the pin the distance I measured leaving a bit extra, reassemble and repeat until I get to the desired length.
Calipers help tremendously with the measurements, take a lot of the guess work out of the equation and I can usually nail it in 2 tries.
I just love my hammer with this solid pin setup, it's almost like a hybrid connection
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I work in a machine shop so I have access to different rod materials. I used 13/64 brass rod and it works quite well, fits in the stock delron insulator without much effort.
Basically I start with a 7mm pin length, assemble the hammer with atty, then measure the gap from the top cap to the atty base. I then file down the pin the distance I measured leaving a bit extra, reassemble and repeat until I get to the desired length.
Calipers help tremendously with the measurements, take a lot of the guess work out of the equation and I can usually nail it in 2 tries.
I just love my hammer with this solid pin setup, it's almost like a hybrid connection
Unfortunately I don't have access to a machine shop, and wouldn't know how to cut a brass rod. What do you recommend for cutting and filing? Another option online is to buy a few copper springs and squish them together, making a very dense spring to replace the original spring in the mod.
I really want to get this as close to perfect as possible; ergonomically, this is probably my favorite mod.
Hacksaw with metal cutting blade and a medium grain metal file should do the trick.
Brass is fairly soft and doesn't take much effort to cut or file down.
Personally I would go for a solid pin vs any type of spring mod, but my route requires different pin lengths for different attys if they don't have adjustable 510 connections.
I've heard good results from the dense spring method, so that is also a very viable option.
looks nice, rhean! where did you get that great pipe stem/drip tip?
the chi you button threads onto the hammer quite nicely. looks awesome too. i never get to see the nice work on the chi you button, but with it on the hammer, blam- its right in your face. and if you use the tobeco hammer switch on the chi you, you can stand up the chi you unlocked without firing.
the chi you button threads onto the hammer quite nicely. looks awesome too. i never get to see the nice work on the chi you button, but with it on the hammer, blam- its right in your face. and if you use the tobeco hammer switch on the chi you, you can stand up the chi you unlocked without firing.
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