Without a kick, you must wind your coil so that it does not discharge your battery over the max amperage that it's rated for at full charge. When you do, that's when it can blow up in your face. From what I understand, the 18650 has a max of 6 amps.
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Without a kick, you must wind your coil so that it does not discharge your battery over the max amperage that it's rated for at full charge. When you do, that's when it can blow up in your face. From what I understand, the 18650 has a max of 6 amps.
@Caligrower, @epcii (sorry for the Twitter @) Thank you!
What is a "kick"? I don't rebuild my Protank coils, and I use 1.8 ohms. Do I need a different coil? Is there something on the Hammer that will let me know if I'm over max amperage at full charge?
ALSO, what is the life expectancy of a mech mod itself, apart from the battery?
I'm editing like crazy, sorry.
What is a "kick"? I don't rebuild my Protank coils, and I use 1.8 ohms. Do I need a different coil? Is there something on the Hammer that will let me know if I'm over max amperage at full charge?
ALSO, what is the life expectancy of a mech mod itself, apart from the battery?
I'm editing like crazy, sorry.
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a kick is a little electronic disk that you put in your battery compartment that allows you to adjust the wattage on your device. im not into all of the calculations of wattage,ect but i wind all of my coils at 1.7-2.0 ( for me, 1.8 works best) and ive never had any issues at all. if your going to be using something like a protank, youll be pretty good using 1.8 coils. EPCII is absolutely correct though, if your rebuilding your own coils or using a rebuildable atomizer ( such as the AGI, AGA T2 or KayFun series just to name a few...) ALWAYS make sure you wind your coils as he said or you very well could end up with a leaking or worst case exploded battery, but your more likely to pop your coil before that happens. ive been vaping for years and rebuilding my own stuff for quite some time and have yet to explode a battery. many popped coils but never a shorted or blown up battery myself, but it CAN happen for sure..
also, if your rebuilding your own coils in the future, ALWAYS check them with a meter BEFORE using them on a PCB AVP. there are KNOWN ISSUES that the REBUILDABLE ATOMIZERS (RBAs) ( and poorly/wrongly/incorrectly built regular replacable coil units such as the protank,vivis ect when rebuilt) can and will fry PCB controlled mods if they are not built correctly!
once you get to the point youll be rebuilding your own stuff youll have done enough research and trial and error youll know how many turns of whichever wire you use in making coils produces which ohms,ect
also, if your rebuilding your own coils in the future, ALWAYS check them with a meter BEFORE using them on a PCB AVP. there are KNOWN ISSUES that the REBUILDABLE ATOMIZERS (RBAs) ( and poorly/wrongly/incorrectly built regular replacable coil units such as the protank,vivis ect when rebuilt) can and will fry PCB controlled mods if they are not built correctly!
once you get to the point youll be rebuilding your own stuff youll have done enough research and trial and error youll know how many turns of whichever wire you use in making coils produces which ohms,ect
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A kick is a regulator that somewhat converts your mech into a mod like a Vamo or Provari, minus the ohms reader, but it does have some protective features. At 1.8 ohms, you're safe on an 18350 mech, but you could go lower if you wanted to. Also, you do still have to make sure you don't drain the battery too low, which you would likely catch before it happens from the low-quality vapor. There is nothing on the Hammer, or any mech for that matter, that will let you know if you're running your battery too hard, apart from the battery getting very hot. I don't know the life expectancy of the Hammer, as mine's coming in the mail sometime soon. Can't wait!
as far as life expectancy,probably 100 years ..lol
in looking at mine, really it doesnt look like theres much to go south on them with the exception of the spring in the switch, and thats easily replaceable, and maybe the pin insulator ( which youll find is pretty much the same in most mods/tanks. ive used protank burner pin insulators to replace pin insulators in mods such as the evic,ect with a perfect fit). the quality hammer mods such as the hcigar and tobeco are made from solid stainless steel and the switch is mechanical, so not much to go wrong with them at all.
in looking at mine, really it doesnt look like theres much to go south on them with the exception of the spring in the switch, and thats easily replaceable, and maybe the pin insulator ( which youll find is pretty much the same in most mods/tanks. ive used protank burner pin insulators to replace pin insulators in mods such as the evic,ect with a perfect fit). the quality hammer mods such as the hcigar and tobeco are made from solid stainless steel and the switch is mechanical, so not much to go wrong with them at all.
Caligrower, Epcii, THANK YOU! I guess I'm pretty safe as I don't rebuild; I only dry burn, then replace flavor wicks with cotton wicks when necessary. Also, things will probably become way clearer after the thing is physically in front of me.
OK, so now I have to figure out which Hammer clone to get. This is fun
OK, so now I have to figure out which Hammer clone to get. This is fun
Caligrower, Epcii, THANK YOU! I guess I'm pretty safe as I don't rebuild; I only dry burn, then replace flavor wicks with cotton wicks when necessary. Also, things will probably become way clearer after the thing is physically in front of me.
OK, so now I have to figure out which Hammer clone to get. This is fun
Mini Overview:
Hcigar: (Stainless steel/Silver plated tube), near 1:1 replica of the original. Stainless steel with a silver plated brass inner tube.
Tobecco, Rainbow Heaven, Infinite: (Stainless steel/Brass) Reportedly get their parts from the same source. Stainless steel with a brass inner tube.
Rainbow Heaven: DO NOT BUY!!!(Brass/Chrome plating) Apparently a cheaper 2nd version from RH. Made from chrome plated brass. Does not come with battery extension tubes. $8 cheaper than the SS version.
Edit: FastTech has two different versions (apparently). The chrome plated brass 18350 only model, presumably made/sold by Rainbow Heaven, and a second Stainless steel version that is made/sold by Rainbow Heaven or Infinite with a smooth, rather than knurled, locking ring. I have not been able to confirm 100% that the more expensive version is stainless steel. I'll be finding out in a couple of weeks (months?) when I receive it from FT.
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i think that pretty near sums the whole thing up right there PLANofMAN!.......what i might do is order one or two of the rainbow clones and then get all the clones (hcigar, tobeco,rainbow,ect) and the authentic hammer all in one place and take some pix of the quality,ect all together. would solve alot of debate issues. as i posted before, ive examined the hcigar, the tobeco and the authentic hammer mod all and the hcigar was the best quality and the closest to the original out of the two.
i can always use the crappy cheap copies ( i cant even call them clones as from the pix ive seen the rainbows are crap quality) for fishing and hunting and other outdoor activities with maybe a protank or a vivi and wont sweat much if i drop one overboard or loose one in the woods or drop it off the bikes...LOL
From what I read on FT, the difference between the two (chrome plated brass and Brass and SS) is that one comes with SS extension tubes. The comments seemed to indicate that the "Rainbow Heaven?" version was superior to the Tobecco version, but didn't have the rounded fire button like the Hcigar version.
Since I was ordering the Kayfun clone and a drip tip anyways, I added the CHammer to my order. I got the one with tubes so I could upgrade to a Kick later if I wanted. I guess you attach the small tube to the mod, insert kick, and then add the Atty attachment. See picture (not my picture).
Sorry if that has already been covered.
I'm thinking of getting the FT clone with extension tubes, but really would want to use it with a kick (set up like in the picture there). No point in ordering before next year though. I have no experience of mechs, or of kicks, but it seems to me that there's no reason why a kick couldn't work as long as it fits. I'd be really grateful if someone who knows could explain why the mod wouldn't work with a kick, if it indeed doesn't, and even. More grateful if someone who has both the mod (not necessarily the FT one, but one with the shorter extension tube) and a kick would test if it works.
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its a mechanical mod and comes with thelonger and shorter tube. with the shorter tube installed why WOULDNT it work with a kick?
Yeah, that's what I've been thinking. Only difference to a standard mod (functionwise, that I can see) is that the 510 connector doesn't sit on top of the battery. This shouldn't matter though (right?), the kick needs to sit between the atomizer and wherever the voltages are coming from.
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as long as the output is between the 510 positive pin and the battery oriented correctly, it should work just as if it was in a straight tube mod. i dont have a kick handy to try it ( i gave my last one to my daughter cause i never used it) but ive got 2 on order right now, so if someone else doesnt chime in before they get here i will post results when i get them, but from what i can ascertain it should work fine
Thank you. I'll go for Hcigar first, then Tobeco or Infinite, stay away from RH. Prices seem reasonable, even if I don't order from Fasttech.
Tobeco Hammer in a variation of 18650 mode, kick fits under the fire button in this configuration with a little Pin modding.
Personally I think it looks better setup this way in 18650 mode, sure beats the Big "L" setup.
Personally I think it looks better setup this way in 18650 mode, sure beats the Big "L" setup.
Tobeco Hammer in a variation of 18650 mode, kick fits under the fire button in this configuration with a little Pin modding.
Personally I think it looks better setup this way in 18650 mode, sure beats the Big "L" setup.
it looks great is it possible to do this with out the kick? Is the set up difficult?
Yes, it's possible without the kick too. You will have to use a longer firing pin screw to make contact with the brass tube. I think another poster mentioned using magnets, but I'm unfamiliar with that method.
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1501000
You can get a knockoff Kick from Fast Tech too. (I think this is actually the "Stomp by Sigelei" as it has the same 33.3 hz chipset as the Vamo). Edit: Correction, this is a clone of the Stomp clone, done right. It goes up to 12 watts and is the smaller version 2.0, so it fits everything now.
An authentic Kick 2.0 will go up to 15 watts. Knockoffs go to 10 or 12 watts. The Kick will also produce an almost straight DC like vape, whereas the knockoffs can give you the "rattlesnake" vape sound and taste like the Vamo mod. Both will protect your batteries from over drain.
You can get a knockoff Kick from Fast Tech too.
(I think this is actually the "Stomp by Sigelei" as it has the same 33.3 hz chipset as the Vamo). Edit: Correction, this is a clone of the Stomp clone, done right. It goes up to 12 watts and is the smaller version 2.0, so it fits everything now.An authentic Kick 2.0 will go up to 15 watts. Knockoffs go to 10 or 12 watts. The Kick will also produce an almost straight DC like vape, whereas the knockoffs can give you the "rattlesnake" vape sound and taste like the Vamo mod. Both will protect your batteries from over drain.
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That "Kick" wont fit in the setup I posted because of the 18 mm height. The "Crown" barely fits (8 mm height).
I cant screw the fire button assembly entirely to the base, theres still a couple threads showing.
Heres where I got my Crown, they are currently out of stock here, but might be available elsewhere.
http://jazzepipe.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=92
I cant screw the fire button assembly entirely to the base, theres still a couple threads showing.
Heres where I got my Crown, they are currently out of stock here, but might be available elsewhere.
http://jazzepipe.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=92
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