No need unless the plating wears off, which would require heavy use.
Cleaning it with ISO alcohol, or PGA would help keep the tarnish away.
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No need unless the plating wears off, which would require heavy use.
Cleaning it with ISO alcohol, or PGA would help keep the tarnish away.
Yep, I'd agree here. My clone seems to drop around 0.3 volts at the posts, using a 0.27 ohm coil. Rather impressive, though I don't have a lot of references. I even need to polish the button contact to see what that does.
I get the common usage of the term "hardest hitting"... but wouldn't the more accurate question be least voltage drop..?
Hitting in most usage scenarios refers to vape or smoke production. Variability in battery specs/performance plays a greater role than the mod. Obviously what sits on top of the mod plays and even greater role...
In most cases, accurately measuring voltage drop aren't we just talking variances generally less than a volt from one mod to the next... in most cases a difference in 10th's or 100th's of a volt..?
Hitting in most usage scenarios refers to vape or smoke production. Variability in battery specs/performance plays a greater role than the mod. Obviously what sits on top of the mod plays and even greater role...
In most cases, accurately measuring voltage drop aren't we just talking variances generally less than a volt from one mod to the next... in most cases a difference in 10th's or 100th's of a volt..?
In my limited experience nothing compares to copper. My Hydra B (Vaportech) copper mod hits like a beautiful beast. My copper Paragon clone too.
My stainless steel Panzer Blackhawk (clone) doesn't even come close to my copper mods. No comparison.
Finding a great vape is all trial and error. My error was buying a mod made out of anything but copper.
My stainless steel Panzer Blackhawk (clone) doesn't even come close to my copper mods. No comparison.
Finding a great vape is all trial and error. My error was buying a mod made out of anything but copper.
Smk flagship is my best mod with the lowest voltage drop (i switch between this and my buster the most). I also have a authentic stainless rig, authentic brass ameravape buster, authentic smpl, and clone Manhattan.
I liked the Stingray's I have the brass, copper, and Stingray x. They all hit pretty hard with a sub ohm rda. I have since switched to the IPV3 150 watt box mod though and it puts everything else to shame. I put my Dark Horse .18 build on my Stingray copper the other day with a fresh battery and it didn't even come close to the IPV 3 set at 70 watts.
I've got an OG stingray that hits like a champ, my Surfrider hits like a champ. If have to imagine the SMPL is a hard hitter unless that button isn't very good - but I haven't done any research on it. IPV3 you say? Hmmm
Out of all the mech mods I have. I would have to say the SMPL is the best by far. BTW, I have a 26650 Stingray, 18650 Brass King and the SMPL.
I haven't been using mech mods for a long time so I dunno but to me I cant really notice a difference in my mods. I have a couple Praxis mods, Fournines, SIMPL mods, Stingray Xs, Nemis, Cartel mods and a Fuhattan and I cant really tell to much a difference in the way they hit. I notice the diffrence between a hybrid and a non hybrid though. I find they vape very different and I much prefer hybrids.
Authentic Copper SMPL. Copper, no seams in top cap with direct connection to atty, and only thread are in the button...this thing is pretty much no drop and only limiting factor is your battery. WEEHOOO.
There's a lot of chat about copper, and measurably, copper is a better conductor than most of the other common materials (SS, brass, etc).
However, you'll find a great deal more of the VD in any given mod in its contact connectivity than in its material. The threads, positive post, and ESPECIALLY the button.
Have a good look at pbusardo's alternate method of measuring conductivity, and gaze in wonder at the el cheapo telescopic "arachnid" mod that competes pretty well with copper and brass mods.
It's in the button.
The more pieces in the circuit, the more places that the electricity has to jump from one solid conductor to the next, the more VD.
That's why a stainless SMPL will measure out to pretty darn close to a copper interior Stingray X.
Ultimately, if you REALLY wanted to do ultra low VD right you'd design a hybrid atty to thread onto your mod tube. This makes the positive center pin of the atty 1 solid piece with the positive contact for the batt, and gives only one thread contact with the tube. If you make the atty in such a way (see Tobh, for example) that the negative posts are integral and one piece with the body, there's another removed contact point. Then, a well designed, consistent and low VD button. The basic design elements of Stingray, nemesis, etc. is a tried and true design that could use a little refinement, but it's the same basic button design that reappears in the best.
Make the whole thing out of fine .999 silver. Then have the threads and contact points gold plated.
You probably wouldn't be able to measure any VD without seriously pricey research grade equipment.
I've even toyed with the idea of doing a kickstarter to make this a reality. There's a machine shop down the road from me who charges fairly, does one offs, small runs, and prototyping, and is generally a reasonable place to do business. Silver is kinda expensive, but not prohibitively so. Etc.
However, you'll find a great deal more of the VD in any given mod in its contact connectivity than in its material. The threads, positive post, and ESPECIALLY the button.
Have a good look at pbusardo's alternate method of measuring conductivity, and gaze in wonder at the el cheapo telescopic "arachnid" mod that competes pretty well with copper and brass mods.
It's in the button.
The more pieces in the circuit, the more places that the electricity has to jump from one solid conductor to the next, the more VD.
That's why a stainless SMPL will measure out to pretty darn close to a copper interior Stingray X.
Ultimately, if you REALLY wanted to do ultra low VD right you'd design a hybrid atty to thread onto your mod tube. This makes the positive center pin of the atty 1 solid piece with the positive contact for the batt, and gives only one thread contact with the tube. If you make the atty in such a way (see Tobh, for example) that the negative posts are integral and one piece with the body, there's another removed contact point. Then, a well designed, consistent and low VD button. The basic design elements of Stingray, nemesis, etc. is a tried and true design that could use a little refinement, but it's the same basic button design that reappears in the best.
Make the whole thing out of fine .999 silver. Then have the threads and contact points gold plated.
You probably wouldn't be able to measure any VD without seriously pricey research grade equipment.
I've even toyed with the idea of doing a kickstarter to make this a reality. There's a machine shop down the road from me who charges fairly, does one offs, small runs, and prototyping, and is generally a reasonable place to do business. Silver is kinda expensive, but not prohibitively so. Etc.
the copper praxis hits harder than the smpl.
I have both and the smpl is very good but the praxis is better Imo.
I have both and the smpl is very good but the praxis is better Imo.
Any parallel box mod will hit harder than a single battery mech.
Take your pick...
Take your pick...
true but people use tubes cos of the size.
I use my hybrids more than my sigelei 100w plus cos they look better and are a lot smaller
I use my hybrids more than my sigelei 100w plus cos they look better and are a lot smaller
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