Has anyone used the Vamped 40 amp batteries?
- Thread starter Raynman
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Gee, in addition to wanting genuine quality batts for my grand I'd love to see an improvement in the 18490 category for my REO minis...
an 18490 with the specs of an aw 18650 1600mah please!
an 18490 with the specs of an aw 18650 1600mah please!
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Just for the record, no bs, 2 of the 4 vtc5 cells that I have been running since they came out, have fallen out of my hand, I dropped my mod, into a lake , and sat underwater for 5 to 10 min while I dove multiple times, 30 to 40ft down to get them back. In both cases I did retrieve them and nothing bad happened, no venting no nothing, that was 2 months ago probably, and I have been running them everyday probably 3x each @0.2ohm to 0.35ohm all day everyday...no problem. If your talking smack about vtc's your not correct. They have well surpassed any expectations I have.
I'm not too sure about that. I've been content and I've blown up by about 20 pounds so far.
If you were referring to any comments I made in my posts, not talking smack about them... Take some time and research the VTC's and you will find that for months now there has been a problem with them pitting due to subΩ vaping... There has also been a problem with the wrapping on them as well. It seems they are prone to some sort of sweating beneath the wrapper and are showing spots beneath... As far as I am aware no one has come up with an actual reason as to why they are doing it. Maybe all the problems they are having is why Sony has stopped production on them. Not real sure... I am in no way saying that VTC's are the only batteries that have incurred these problems, as there have been reports of AW's, LG's, Samsung's, Efest's, and others that have a pitting problem also. They are just not as pronounced as the VTC's... It's good to hear they have passed all you expectations and you haven't had any problems with them. There are plenty of other people out there that have had problems though...
It's not so unbelievable that one could be fooled and buy a counterfeit battery...it can happen to anyone. I buy mine from Randy at RTD but when there is a outbreak of posts of a particular counterfeit battery by a host of different people I'll investigate the Candle Power forum for up to date news.
Ok, pitting is always a possibility, especially with sub ohm builds, on mechanical mods. The only variable is, where the pitting will occur, depending on the design of the mod. The pitting might occur on the battery positive or negative contact; or it may occur within the switch of the mod itself. In most side button tube mods, the battery is held tight at both top and bottom, and the electrical connection is made within the switch itself. Examples are Poldiacs, Atmomixani 69, GGs, Rollers, etc. A few bottom button tube mod switches also work this way, where the electrical connection is made within the switch. An example is the Stingray. On these types of mods, the switch must be disassembled periodically, in order to clean the contacts. On most other bottom button mods, the top (positive end) of the battery is in constant contact, and the circuit is completed as the button is pressed up, causing the bottom contact to make contact with the bottom end of the battery. Examples of this are the GP Paps, MM Nanos, Akuma, Nemesis, etc. Pitting will never occur in these mods on either the positive battery post or the top connection of the mod. if pitting occurs, ot will likely be on either the bottom of the battery or the bottom post of the mod.
With the Reo, the bottom of the battery is in constant contact, as long as the top of the spring is clean. The switching is done at the positive end, when the button is pressed, and the switch makes connection with the top of the battery. If the button is not pressed quickly enough, firmly enough, or if the contact is dirty, arcing can occur, and pitting will be the result, either on the positive pole of the battery, or on the switch.
With the Reo, the bottom of the battery is in constant contact, as long as the top of the spring is clean. The switching is done at the positive end, when the button is pressed, and the switch makes connection with the top of the battery. If the button is not pressed quickly enough, firmly enough, or if the contact is dirty, arcing can occur, and pitting will be the result, either on the positive pole of the battery, or on the switch.
I sub-ohm on a Magneto and a Stingray and have not had any pitting but I generally don't go below 0.3.
Both of these devices are activated by the switch, the battery is tight against the top and bottom. In my opinion these type devices are the least likely to experience any type of arcing or pitting. The Magneto has a spring loaded brass pin in the bottom so it is possible this device could be arcing inside where the spring is but I haven't had any problems with it.
Both of these devices are activated by the switch, the battery is tight against the top and bottom. In my opinion these type devices are the least likely to experience any type of arcing or pitting. The Magneto has a spring loaded brass pin in the bottom so it is possible this device could be arcing inside where the spring is but I haven't had any problems with it.
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I dunno how you would be able to blame your battery arching or causing pitting on the battery...I'd think that would simply be setting up your mod correctly ....maybe I'm missing something
I think it also has to do with how the user presses the button. Slow, tentative presses are more likely to create arcing and pitting than firm, quick presses.
I guess it might be possible a batt could use an inferior metal on the caps that would cause an increased rate of pitting when arcing occurred....
None of my 3 VTC5s have had any pitting. That's because they are a well built, and I take measures to reduce arcing. The fact that a mod is arcing so bad that it creates pits in the metal means that there is something wrong with the connection in the mod.
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Exactly what I was thinking, user error. Not battery related.
So how bout those new batteries.
So how bout those new batteries.
What about the Nitecore NL18650A IMR 30A 2000mah http://www.illumn.com/flashlights/n...18650a-2000mah-high-discharge-button-top.html
Are these rewrapped? I don't know of another batt with those specs (assuming their correct)
Are these rewrapped? I don't know of another batt with those specs (assuming their correct)
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I should have my vapor flask in saturday and I'll toss my two vamped in for a review
Just a little note. Anyone looking for a vapor flask v1. There is one for sale in the classified section.
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