Hate to bring up this issue AGAIN...

Status
Not open for further replies.

JamHam666

Full Member
Oct 16, 2013
23
25
AZ
but this is starting to piss me off. If you'd understandably not want to hear about a burnt taste anymore, please stop reading.


Regaring Triton.

Tank A works great.
I cleaned tank B in order to change juices. After cleaning Tank B, I get a horrible burnt taste every tenth or twentieth hit.

I do everything I'm supposed to: make sure wicks stay wet, make sure to loosen coil "very slightly" per Triton manual to avoid burnt taste. Nothing works.

I came to conclude that after cleaning, I didn't assemble the coil pieces exactly correct, which cause the burnt taste.

Time to clean Tank A. This time, I am meticulous in making sure I assemble it exactly as I found it. Guess what? Tank A now has burnt taste every tenth or twentieth hit. Almost making me want to tear up my Halo Army membership card. Getting a surprise burnt hit after taking a Massive long drag is so gut-wrenchingly horrible that I want to throw my triton thru my bigscreen TV and smoke a carton of Camel 99's

Please help me in this time of need, ECF!
 
Last edited:

stevegmu

Moved On
ECF Veteran
May 10, 2013
11,630
12,348
6992 kilometers from home...
What pieces did you take apart to clean? When I wash a tank and coil head, I rinse under warm water, let air dry overnight and am good to go. I don't take anything apart, save for unscrewing the drip tip and removing the coil head from the tank. If you take apart the coil assembly, odds are it may not go back together correctly.
 

jefsview

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
May 2, 2013
9,756
11,127
Crete, Il
Many factors to consider:

Coil assembly could be tightened too tight. Always remember in the vape world: snug, not tight
Darker colored juices tend to gunk; same with liquid heavy on sweetner
Tanks are all about airflow -- make certain the top, flavor, wick isn't smothering the coil wick. I know that sometimes after cleaning when I return the extra wick, I have a tendency to hold it down too close when replacing the silicon sleeve, and that cuts off airflow.

Never hurts to take a few primer puffs if the tank has sat for a short while without being used. Make certain the wicks stay wet by tilting, turning the tank upside down, etc. Just because the bottom of the wicks are resting in eliquid, that doesn't mean it's reaching the coils.
 

Boston Vapah

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 26, 2013
216
272
Boston, MA, USA
I'm new with the Triton too and I was getting occasional burnt hits but only with Voodoo and Southern Classic. When it would happen I'd back off the coil just a bit and then screw the mouthpiece back on without cranking it down as I noticed that it would also turn the coil inside if I overtightened it. I've found that you only need to snug up the mouthpiece and not crank it down. With both the coil and the mouthpiece, I tighten just enough for the gasket to take a tiny bit of pressure which I'm finding takes a little bit of experience to feel it as well as some patience. I was getting frustrated with it too but it's happening less and less now as I tinker with it.

My other 2 tanks are Prime and Malibu and so far I've not run into problems so I'm sure stevegmu is right about asking about the juice. By the way, I'm using both the standard and VV batts for my setup.

If you haven't already, search the threads on the forum for "Triton burnt taste" and read/apply some suggestions cos they work. As with everything it take practice but now that I'm 5 days in, I'm finding burnt taste isn't happening nearly as much so be patient and tinker...you'll get past this and before you know it, it'll be a thing of the past. It's a huge payoff when you get your technique down.

Hope it works out for ya :)
 

JamHam666

Full Member
Oct 16, 2013
23
25
AZ
Many factors to consider:
make certain the top, flavor, wick isn't smothering the coil wick. I know that sometimes after cleaning when I return the extra wick, I have a tendency to hold it down too close when replacing the silicon sleeve, and that cuts off airflow.
QUOTE]


Thanks for this! This could be my issue! On this topic, exactly how snug should the top wick be to the coil? barely touching?
 

BigBen2k

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 1, 2013
2,323
1,678
MA, USA
It's all about that soft plastic sleeve. If it's too tight, it chokes the wick. If it's too loose, it allows juice to leak to the battery.

Thick juices don't wick well, and you may never be able to find the perfect balance, but... you can thin them out with a drop or two of water per tankful (or PGA if you don't mind an alcoholic taste).
 

Boston Vapah

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 26, 2013
216
272
Boston, MA, USA
No surprise, I've read many of jefsview's threads and he's mostly spot on. There are a handful of folks on here that know what they're doing IMO and jefsview is on of them.

Shout out's to BigBen, SeniorBoy too as they'll give detailed solutions which always work for me. There are others but just can't amemba all the names (no disrespect) off the top of my head.
 

JamHam666

Full Member
Oct 16, 2013
23
25
AZ
Yes thanks everyone for the input. I use halo TriBeCa and torque and some other MVBs. All light colored juices, and I believe my issue is smothering the coil with the top wick. What happens if you completely remove the top wick? At this point, I feel like its more trouble than it worth.

Another thing is I can't really take out the coil to try a solution until my tank is empty or close to it
 

Chinook

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 16, 2013
987
807
OR, USA
This is what worked for me:

1) Take apart everything, clean (soak in water and/or PGA)

2) Take a look at the coil from the top of the head. The coil should be centered with a small gap in the center between the wraps. For example, a 7 wrap coil should look like this where x is the center of the coil head :

IIII x III

The wraps should have some space in between and none should touch to the sides of the coil assembly. If something is off, using a small wire (like a thin paper clip wire), GENTLY reorient the coil and its wraps.

3) If necessary, dry burn the coil when it's slightly damp with water (not PGA). 2-3 second short pulses until the coil glows red NOT orange.

4) Blow off the ashes, rinse, soak again

5) When the wicks are completely dry, push the silicone down just so that the top of it is flush with the small metal tip of the coil assembly.

6) Gently screw the coil back into the tank JUST with your finger tips, similar pressure like holding a water glass with your fingers. You'll know when it's tight enough. Do not tighten it further with extra leverage from your hand, arms or body.

7) Gently screw the mouthpiece, it'll push down the silicone sleeve hopefully just enough.....

If you got some severe dry burns in some tanks, you might need to retire those tanks and coils...

Edit:

1) Send warm feeling to everyone who contributed to the list I posted above

2) Wish every Halo employee who knows about these things but keep quiet, a lifetime of only plasticky and burnt rubbery tasting vaping :)
 
Last edited:

Fulgurant

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 21, 2013
677
2,581
Philadelphia, PA, USA
For what it's worth, I never touch the head assembly when washing. I just unscrew it, rinse, and throw the whole thing into vodka to soak for about an hour. If I've been using the head for awhile, I might very gently pull the wicks to one side or another to see if there's any lingering burn mark in the center after soaking.

Learned my lesson after seating the silicon sleeve incorrectly once; there's no need to disturb it. In fact, you can accidentally disturb it fairly easily just by unscrewing the head.

If all else fails, and as Boston suggests, don't be afraid to replace the head. They're not expensive.
 

Chinook

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 16, 2013
987
807
OR, USA
For what it's worth, I never touch the head assembly when washing. I just unscrew it, rinse, and throw the whole thing into vodka to soak for about an hour. If I've been using the head for awhile, I might very gently pull the wicks to one side or another to see if there's any lingering burn mark in the center after soaking.

Learned my lesson after seating the silicon sleeve incorrectly once; there's no need to disturb it. In fact, you can accidentally disturb it fairly easily just by unscrewing the head.

If all else fails, and as Boston suggests, don't be afraid to replace the head. They're not expensive.

The problem is that the replacement heads can have problems right out of the box:

1) Manufacturing grease or some other residue.
2) Coils that are wrapped bad (not centered, touching to metal sides, multiple wraps touching each other)
 

Fulgurant

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 21, 2013
677
2,581
Philadelphia, PA, USA
The problem is that the replacement heads can have problems right out of the box:

1) Manufacturing grease or some other residue.
2) Coils that are wrapped bad (not centered, touching to metal sides, multiple wraps touching each other)

1) Right, I always wash new equipment before using it.
2) Haven't had any problems.
 

Fulgurant

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 21, 2013
677
2,581
Philadelphia, PA, USA
hoping for some more insight on this

The top wick's there for a reason. A lot of people remove the so-called flavor wick (top wick) on various different types of clearomizers for a variety of reasons, but they often encounter leaking problems later, because one of the top wick's jobs is to soak up excess juice.

I wouldn't mess with it, but if you're feeling adventurous, go ahead. :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread