Have a qustion regarding amount of power I supply to my coil >

[Flt Simulation]

I understand ohms law, and also use the 'Steam Engine' calculator, but am confused with something here ...

I have an atty with a single Kanthal coil mounted in it that measures exactly 1.20 ohms on both my accurate Fluke multimeter and on my innokin Disrupter mod. I like the vape I get using exactly 13 watts of power to this 1.20 ohm coil.

Now, if I put this same atty with the same 1.20 ohm coil in it on my eVic VTC Mini, it reads 1.30 ohms (which is not accurate / it's really showing 0.10 ohms too high).

Since the eVic VTC Mini is reading a higher ohms that the coil actually is, in order to get the same vape, do I need to set the watts lower or higher on the eVic VTC Mini than the 13 watts I normally set on the very accurate Innokin Disrupter?

 

[Rossum]

In principle, lower. If a mod reads resistance higher than it really is, it will apply more voltage to that coil than it would if it read the resistance correctly.

But in reality, you're talking about a single digit difference in the least significant digit of the reading here, right? So if these were identical mods, one could be reading 1.24 ohms and rounding down while the other is reading 1.26 ohms and rounding up..

 

[Flt Simulation]

If a mod reads resistance higher than it really is, it will apply more voltage to that coil than it would if it read the resistance correctly.

As per the 'Steam Engine' calculator .....

Ok, I think I understand ..... if I have a coil that is in fact exactly 1.20 ohms and power it to 13.0 watts, the VW mod will apply 3.95 volts to the coil.

If this same 1.20 ohm coil is being powered by another VW mod that incorrectly reads the ohms as 1.30 ohms, I would need to lower the watts of this VW mod down to 12.0 watts in order to get the same 3.95 volts applied to the coil.

 

[MorpheusPA]

Technically, yes. But like Rossum noted, the last digit on your multimeter (and mod) always has some inaccuracy. The error simply may not be that significant.

Your Disrupter's and your eVic's accuracy isn't as good as the Fluke, but what it reads is what you get--sometimes, if you unscrew and re-screw the device, the resistance will change. Still, some adjustment to the wattage would be required to account for the differences.

The difference between 12 and 13 watts will be noticeable by some users on some devices, so yeah, fiddle until it tastes right. There are days I adjust things by 0.1 watts simply because I can detect the difference...

 

[mcclintock]

If the increased resistance is due to losses outside the atomizer, you would need to increase the power setting. But unless you know the reason, it's just an error and you can't predict which way it goes. It could be taken that the device probably has other errors as well.

"Your Disrupter's and your eVic's accuracy isn't as good as the Fluke,"

I can't believe people keep saying this. I've yet to see a multimeter where the probes can be relied upon to be consistent on different surfaces to less than a .3 ohm range. Besides, you'd only be using the bottom .00001% of its range -- surely a specialized instrument could be expected to beat it?

 

[MorpheusPA]

"Your Disrupter's and your eVic's accuracy isn't as good as the Fluke,"

I can't believe people keep saying this. I've yet to see a multimeter where the probes can be relied upon to be consistent on different surfaces to less than a .3 ohm range. Besides, you'd only be using the bottom .00001% of its range -- surely a specialized instrument could be expected to beat it?

Obviously not. I just unscrewed and re-screwed my tank and it changed from 2.30 to 2.29 (cold). A third time is 2.27. #4 is back up to 2.31.

I'm varying more than 1.5% on a "specialized" instrument...which would be an absolutely abysmal level of accuracy.

At best, most mods are "meh" in terms of measuring resistance. Personally, I can't believe people keep claiming they're anything approaching accurate.

Follow the instructions on a good meter and accuracy should be comparable to better than that when re-measuing exactly the same coil.

Now, following all the instructions, including temperature of the probes, cleanliness, methodology? Good luck with that. Most people are much more careless.

 

[Woofer]

Obviously not. I just unscrewed and re-screwed my tank and it changed from 2.30 to 2.29 (cold). A third time is 2.27. #4 is back up to 2.31.

It is the connection not the meter.

 

[MorpheusPA]

It is the connection not the meter.

It's the Fluke's connection, not the meter as well--the complaint above. Those Flukes are rock solid internally in terms of the electronics.

So it would actually be smarter to say that life ain't perfect, and adjust the wattage appropriately--because you can't rely on your mod or your meter to be completely accurate.

 

[93gc40]

The readings on your mod and steam-engine will not tell you the correct amount of power to use. The meter on the mod will tell you what it sees, YOU and your reaction to taking a hit will tell your how much power is the correct amount and how much is too much and how much is too little. There is no technology to make this determination, for you.

You want to find the right amount of power for your build.. Start at the lowest setting, and increase power till you get the hit you want. If you can't get a good hit, try a different build.

 

[duc916]

I can't believe people keep saying this. I've yet to see a multimeter where the probes can be relied upon to be consistent on different surfaces to less than a .3 ohm range. Besides, you'd only be using the bottom .00001% of its range -- surely a specialized instrument could be expected to beat it?

100% right. The thing that makes a cheapo but specialized 510 ohmmeter the far better choice is the operating range... a 510 ohmmeter only reads resistance below 2 or 3 ohms, where coil builders are interested, hence the accuracy is literally thousands of times better than a Fluke multimeter. Without getting too much into it... When Fluke and other manufacturers make claims of 0.1% accuracy, casual multimeter users (like vapers) grossly misunderstand exactly what that means.

Even if they had the same accuracy at 1 ohm, standard Fluke multimeters only resolve to tenths of an ohm (and bounce around +/- a few tenths sporadically, while 510 meters measure down to a hundredth of an ohm rock-solid.

Measurements made with rigid, torqued on 510 electrical contacts versus those oxidized Fluke test probes that sit in your garage toolbox? Yet another no-brainer.

 

[Frenchfry1942]

The reading of the ohms, for me, is alwaysvslightly different. I prefer 14 watts with a 1.1 ohm. In your case, I would start at 11watts and slowly go up.

Just tinker and take notes, include the mod name in the notes. I swish my mouth out 3-4 times to establish a mouth "baseline".

 

[EverPresentNoob]

I use Steam engine and my meter to ensure a build is safe. I use my lungs to ensure a vape is satisfactory. I try to not worry about what watt or power level my mod is set at. if the vape is good, the vape is good. Wattage be damned. Dont get to wrapped up in the numbers. Just make sure your builds are safe, and the vape is good.