Hcigar VT 40 anticipation thread

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ZeroOhm

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Yes as Tony said I am using the full sized kayfun quartz tank FT sold once upon time and the Nano erlk they also sold.

Its well used vaped a few litres through it!

94a9734a0ae8ddc810a50e186d62a3d8.jpg


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it's very nice looking but too little too late, especially at the price
aside from a recently outdated, underpowered chip, my gripes are as follows:

1. I vape my rtas at 35w. 5w is not headroom I feel good about.
2. Forget about drippers or sub ohm clearos, see #1.
3. vaping near capacity on a single 18650 is no bueno
4. that 510 connector is way too Fisher Price for anyone who's had a Fat Daddy or Varitube
5. ugh, that name plate

you can discount most of my complaints if you vape >30w or use TC
even so, there are better options at the same or less money IMO
all this said while still using an HB DNA 40 as my everyday commuting device, I wanted to like the VT40 but I just don't


My thoughts exactly.
 

peterforpats

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just a follow-up....been vaping the vt40 constantly for one week now with absolutely no issues at all. no screen glitches and by far and away the smoothest vaping i have ever encountered. just push the button and clouds of vapor with not a sound. this is the best vaping i have had(i own the sx mini m and s class). while i love the sx minis this board/chip produces the better vape. YMMV, but this is the best, so far......
 

Waddle

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My VT 40 has been working great for approximately the week or so. Today I started getting the check atomizer warning on every atomizer I put on it. When using Kanthal the resistance is also jumping around, not much, but enough to indicate a problem with the 510 connector. :(

EDIT: Fixed using ZeroOhms recommendation to tighten the ground screw.
 
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Waddle

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Sorry to hear that, not sure if you have sent it back if you look at the bottom of the mod where the battery cap is you will see a screw this is the GND chassis screw make sure this is tight and hasn't worked loose in transit.

Here you can see on the right hand board at the bottom you will see a silver connection extending from the board this is the GND connection.
3bb637212f8a04e15205a15df319719d.jpg


Here you can see the GND chassis grub screw top right of the C chassis.
f2cc1be4dc5175fd08b88a0d0213fa48.jpg


Its pretty much the same as all C frame mods I have seen. Great design by Hcigar there are only 2 connections to the board + and Atty out. There using a daughter board like the RDNA.

Adjusted the screen position all good now
c578bf8f82838f760e2bde9ecb2af5fe.jpg


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Thanks ZeroOhm...this did the trick for me. Everything solid again and no serious resistance jumping.

Not that it really bothers me but was adjusting the screen position difficult? I don't really want to tear it apart since its working so well.

Also is it normal in regular mode with Kanthal for the resistance when firing to jump a little say 1.34 to 1.35 to 1.36? I've never had a mod that would read resistance to the 100ths.
 
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ZeroOhm

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Thanks ZeroOhm...this did the trick for me. Everything solid again and no serious resistance jumping.

Not that it really bothers me but was adjusting the screen position difficult? I don't really want to tear it apart since its working so well.

Also is it normal in regular mode with Kanthal for the resistance when firing to jump a little say 1.34 to 1.35 to 1.36? I've never had a mod that would read resistance to the 100ths.
On the 2 I have seen all is well you could try a tiny amount of thread lock on the grub screw head once tightened up, but be careful not to apply to the threads as it will act as a insulator.

Fixing the screen alignment requires you to remove the screen holder which is held in by 2 screws. You will need to desolder the +V and Atty out and slide the board out. The screen is fixed in with double sided tape so either use heat or IPA to soften it. You can then flip up or remove the screen, you then need to cut the screen holder and realign the screen replacing the double sided tape to fix it in place once you have positioned it to where you want it.

Yes I have a few TC mods you will see some variation of 1/100th of an ohm on firing this is normal. All the DNA40s I have seen do this.

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KenD

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VT40 is on sale at gearbest for $99 for the next few minutes (only 10pcs per color). But it seems ppl are not really interested in it :)
I was considering buying, but I have three tc mods already (non authentic Evolv) so I decided to refrain and instead wait for a next generation device and/or something with more wattage and options than a dna40. If I was to buy a dna40 device though it probably would have been the VT40.

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ZeroOhm

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So I picked this up the other day. Pretty nice device with a good feel. I am kind of stumped though. Are you not able to turn it off?
You can't turn any evolv board off! Unless you pull the battery or it depletes below the voltage threshold cut off.

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edyle

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Thanks ZeroOhm...this did the trick for me. Everything solid again and no serious resistance jumping.

Not that it really bothers me but was adjusting the screen position difficult? I don't really want to tear it apart since its working so well.

Also is it normal in regular mode with Kanthal for the resistance when firing to jump a little say 1.34 to 1.35 to 1.36? I've never had a mod that would read resistance to the 100ths.

It absolutely is.... it's just that usually you're not using a mod that can display those small variations.
 

bluecat

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You can't turn any evolv board off! Unless you pull the battery or it depletes below the voltage threshold cut off.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk


Thanks. It was driving me nuts trying to figure out how to turn it off. 2 hours of google searching and nothing stated how to turn it off. I read somewhere that you should turn it off before removing the battery. I got confused at that point.

I guess you may tell it is my first evolve board. Well if you don't take the kick into consideration. I really like whatever material the covered part is. Oh and screen looks fine to me.
 

bluecat

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I have been using this for a couple weeks now. It has turned into my favorite device. I was never a guy that could tell the difference is a cheap device and a higher end. I have to agree with Peter this thing has a very smooth vape with whatever topper I put on.

I did have one weird thing happen. I am a low wattage vaper. All of the sudden the vt40 jumped from 4 volts up to 9 volts. Man it was a hot vape. I took the arty off and waited 30 mins and all was good so far. I only build at 1.8 ohms. It was tasty at 9 colts but way too hot for me.

I have tried the tc yet. I have the ni200 just to lazy to try and getting a great vape now.
 
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