HCigar VT200
- Thread starter MegaVap
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I know what u mean when u say mushy. That's how the dna200 buttons are. They aren't clicky like a sig 150tc is. It's a softer feel when u push them. Only way to change it would be to bypass the on board switch and use something like a mitec. But the involves removing the on board and the filling the whole in the case. Then u would have wire up and install the new switch in a different location. Alot of work to change how the button press feels.
You will be happy with the vt200. I'm more than happy with mine. Like everyone else , my battery life isn't the greatest. Coming from a sig 150 tc which would last all day and halfway through the next it took some getting used to having to charge alot more often. Good thing is u can vape the vt200 while it charging which I couldn't do with the sig. I will say i get a whole work day out of the vt200 so it isnt that bad . Also the quality of vape of vt200 is 10 fold better than the sig. The temp contollers on the dna 200 is outta this world . Soon enough hcigar will have spare lipos for sale. There listed on few sites so it shouldn't be long before we can get them. Then when u add the escribe software into the mix u really start to realize just how much better the vape is with these new boxes.
And I will also add that the battery has been alot better than it was the first week. Lipos don't really shine until they have been cycled a few times. So if the battery life really sucks the first few days it will get a Lil bit better after u charge and discharge a few times.
The mod will most likely not be calibrated when u get it so u will need to do that. When u get it just ask here and I'm sure few people will be glad to help. I've configured mine best I could so if u need a value for some setting I can give u what I came up with . I also have a battery curve I can send u .
I've been reading the thread and got the numbers for the mod resistance and the battery setting for the 14.43wh. I don't know about battery curves so that would be helpful.
14.43 is a little optimistic for battery life, you'll probably end up cutting it to about 11 or 12
I've read some say that's good and others say the 11 or 12. I'll start there and tweak as I need to.
I keep seeing this about changing the Watt Hour in Escribe gives better battery life. It's just not true. The mod can't control how long the battery lasts...that's all Watt Hours is. The only thing it can do, as an example, is change the battery meter to move more fluidly. So it doesn't quickly go to half then sit at half for 90% of the battery's run time then quickly go to empty. Battery life is based on how much power is sitting in the battery, the mod can't control that. Unless you change the wattage you are vaping at, it doesn't matter if you have it at 50Whr or 9, the battery will still run just as long....placebo...
I don't think anyone's been making that assumption lately, we've just been trying to home in on getting the battery meter to die RIGHT when the mod actually starts reading "low batt" or w/e it says when the cutoff voltage is reached
I don't think I would call the on-board switches clicky, personally I think mushy is a better description.
Clicky to me is exactly how the DNA200's are. I think the other buttons on other mods are overly clicky. I shouldn't hear the damn button, but I should feel it. Mushy to me means the click can hardly be felt. But if you've been using these loud overly clicky buttons, anything will feel mushy.
I am so excited right now I have to I have to tell someone. Many pages ago in this thread I stated that my Hcigar Vt200 had started showing an error message : Warranty Service. No one had seen such a message before.
So I contacted vendor I preordered the Vt200 through and they said I was not using the USB cord that came with the VT200. What????/ They wanted to see a picture of the error message. I sent it to them and after that they have not responded to any of my emails. Not one.
So I finally contacted Evolv just to find out about the error message and for any advice they could offer. The representative recognized me from being a regular on The Plumes of Hazard FaceBook page (don't know if that had anything to do with it... ) He said send it in to them at Evolv and they will take care of it. He also said Hcigar VT200s are very easy to work on.
So I boxed it up and it is on it's way to Evolv for a hospital visit. I am excited and very pleased with the attitude & cheerfulness with which they offered to step up and help me out. The original vendor is hiding under a desk, but Evolv is going out of it's way to be a stand up company.
Just had to share this.
So I contacted vendor I preordered the Vt200 through and they said I was not using the USB cord that came with the VT200. What????/ They wanted to see a picture of the error message. I sent it to them and after that they have not responded to any of my emails. Not one.
So I finally contacted Evolv just to find out about the error message and for any advice they could offer. The representative recognized me from being a regular on The Plumes of Hazard FaceBook page (don't know if that had anything to do with it... ) He said send it in to them at Evolv and they will take care of it. He also said Hcigar VT200s are very easy to work on.
So I boxed it up and it is on it's way to Evolv for a hospital visit. I am excited and very pleased with the attitude & cheerfulness with which they offered to step up and help me out. The original vendor is hiding under a desk, but Evolv is going out of it's way to be a stand up company.
Just had to share this.
I think I read somewhere recently that Evolv was willing to fix certain devices that followed the proper guidelines for installation (correct wire gauges etc.). It's a board problem so the vendors would have to send it to Evolv anyways. I think that's why Evolv is cutting out the middleman for repairs. Just saves shipping costs and length of time for repair.
Just another thing I thought I'd mention...
Since changing the mod resistance from 0 to .00455, I've had no coil gunking at all @ 420F. (preheat set to 200w but it never uses more than 90)
This could be just because the temp it's heating to is lower b/c when no mod resistance was set, it assumed all resistance was due to the coil and heated until .08166 ohms of resistance were added to the original .07 of the coil (194.444*.006*.07=.08166) but now it knows to only heat until .07628 ohms are added. (194.444*.006*.0655=.07628)
Previously it looks like it was heating to 207.79+21.11 = 228.89C = around 444F (.08166/(.006*.0655)= 207.79, assuming all resistance comes from the coil and the resistivity coefficient of temperature for the mod is 0)
But even when I turn the mod up to 450 now it doesn't gunk as much as it did before, so it appears to have done more than this? Confused
Maybe I've just been keeping the coils wetter, idk. Spitting seems to be reduced as well too though. (went from very noticeable to completely gone.) The only thing I can think of to explain this is that the mod's preheat algorithm won't allow a coil's temperature to rise beyond a given rate, either because of battery limitations or intentional programming. This would also explain why the preheat never fires more than 90w even set to 200w.
Since changing the mod resistance from 0 to .00455, I've had no coil gunking at all @ 420F. (preheat set to 200w but it never uses more than 90)
This could be just because the temp it's heating to is lower b/c when no mod resistance was set, it assumed all resistance was due to the coil and heated until .08166 ohms of resistance were added to the original .07 of the coil (194.444*.006*.07=.08166) but now it knows to only heat until .07628 ohms are added. (194.444*.006*.0655=.07628)
Previously it looks like it was heating to 207.79+21.11 = 228.89C = around 444F (.08166/(.006*.0655)= 207.79, assuming all resistance comes from the coil and the resistivity coefficient of temperature for the mod is 0)
But even when I turn the mod up to 450 now it doesn't gunk as much as it did before, so it appears to have done more than this? Confused
Maybe I've just been keeping the coils wetter, idk. Spitting seems to be reduced as well too though. (went from very noticeable to completely gone.) The only thing I can think of to explain this is that the mod's preheat algorithm won't allow a coil's temperature to rise beyond a given rate, either because of battery limitations or intentional programming. This would also explain why the preheat never fires more than 90w even set to 200w.
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Just checked the battery limitation theory and it's probably not that because even with my recharge set to maximize recharges w/ voltage being 3x4.1v, it should be able to achieve about 175 watts
I realize that it's not possible to achieve the max current flow instantly but given the relatively even ramp down in current even before the coil is heated to the desired temp, I'm starting to think the chip has a programed rate that it won't let the coil heat faster than.
And it seems to be JUST high enough to heat 50/50 juice without spitting, as when I didn't have the mod resistance set and it heated faster there was a fair amount. Really interesting if this is actually what's going on and it's not just a huge coincidence, really shows the lengths evolv goes to in r&d
I realize that it's not possible to achieve the max current flow instantly but given the relatively even ramp down in current even before the coil is heated to the desired temp, I'm starting to think the chip has a programed rate that it won't let the coil heat faster than.
And it seems to be JUST high enough to heat 50/50 juice without spitting, as when I didn't have the mod resistance set and it heated faster there was a fair amount. Really interesting if this is actually what's going on and it's not just a huge coincidence, really shows the lengths evolv goes to in r&d
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When I get back from class I'll try setting the preheat punch higher and getting it to spit, but if so it's looking like the preheat punch option would ideally be used to raise the maximum rate the coil temperature can rise in order to let you heat higher VG juices faster, and is set to 5 by default as that's the lowest rate that the thinnest commonly used juices can heat at without the differential between the coil and juice being too high and causing spitting.
If this were true I'd guess a punch setting of 1 would only allow a heating rate fast enough to not cause spitting with 100 percent vg, and a setting of ten would do the same with a 100 percent vg juice
This would explain why the people itt who had previously changed the setting didn't notice a difference, as 1) this would mean the difference between a setting of 1 and 10 is relatively small, probably enough to be unnoticeable without real-time heating outputs or a physical tell (like spitting) and 2) all the people I saw who tested had their preheat power significantly below 200w, so it wouldn't have mattered anyway. (if a heating rate of x is allowed but it needs y watts to heat at that rate and y is less than the amount needed to heat at rate x, it won't heat any faster than allowed by y)
Another thing I'll be doing later to test this is building stupidly big coils (20+ wrap 26g duals) and seeing if the preheat wattage rises above what it's been with at on my dual 14 wraps.
If this were true I'd guess a punch setting of 1 would only allow a heating rate fast enough to not cause spitting with 100 percent vg, and a setting of ten would do the same with a 100 percent vg juice
This would explain why the people itt who had previously changed the setting didn't notice a difference, as 1) this would mean the difference between a setting of 1 and 10 is relatively small, probably enough to be unnoticeable without real-time heating outputs or a physical tell (like spitting) and 2) all the people I saw who tested had their preheat power significantly below 200w, so it wouldn't have mattered anyway. (if a heating rate of x is allowed but it needs y watts to heat at that rate and y is less than the amount needed to heat at rate x, it won't heat any faster than allowed by y)
Another thing I'll be doing later to test this is building stupidly big coils (20+ wrap 26g duals) and seeing if the preheat wattage rises above what it's been with at on my dual 14 wraps.
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Clicky is being able to hear it, tactile click is being able to feel it, mushy is no click whatsoever.
Yeah the mod resistance definitely affects the ohm reading of the coil. So it would be ur coil plus the mods internal resistance. Setting the mod resistance tells the chip to minus that from the reading to give more accurate temp control and readings. When I set mine it helped.
Vapenw is selling spare lipos for 20 bucks. I just ordered 2 for a total of 44 $ that includes shipping. Just incase anyone is looking for an hcigar vt200 spare lipo. There in stock according to the website.
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