HCigar VT200

[Jalcide]

Q for VT200 owners: I like clicky buttons that have no play / throw until the pressure applied reaches a tipping point, and then it clicks in that very tactile way, buttons like this do. No mushiness. Like an almost binary action.

E.g., bb style buttons on hana modz. The Snow Wolf 200W's buttons are also like this.

Will I be disappointed with the buttons on the VT200?

It's been said that all buttons on DNA200 mods interact mechanically with the underlying switches on the board, is this true? Or, are there DNA200 mods that solder their own "real" push-style switches in?

If so, are there any that offer a true clicky, mitec / bb / etc. style button?

Thanks, all.

 

[Rockwell222]

Q for VT200 owners: I like clicky buttons that have no play / throw until the pressure applied reaches a tipping point, and then it clicks in that very tactile way, buttons like this do. No mushiness. Like an almost binary action.

E.g., bb style buttons on hana modz. The Snow Wolf 200W's buttons are also like this.

Will I be disappointed with the buttons on the VT200?

It's been said that all buttons on DNA200 mods interact mechanically with the underlying switches on the board, is this true? Or, are there DNA200 mods that solder their own "real" push-style switches in?

If so, are there any that offer a true clicky, mitec / bb / etc. style button?

Thanks, all.

I honestly like the buttons on the hcigar vt200 but the fire button isn't as clicky as it could be but I know the onboard buttons of the DNA200 aren't too clicky. The up and down buttons have much more of a click then the power button but they all feel good to me. Some people have stated they are mushy while some reviewers say they are clicky but it could differ slightly from device to device. I know my vaporshark DNA200 has REALLY nice clicky buttons, I heard they use a separate switch thing lol (can't think of the word I'm looking for). By far I love the vs200 buttons, but I use my hcigar much more then the vs200.

 

[jj6404]

Q for VT200 owners: I like clicky buttons that have no play / throw until the pressure applied reaches a tipping point, and then it clicks in that very tactile way, buttons like this do. No mushiness. Like an almost binary action.

E.g., bb style buttons on hana modz. The Snow Wolf 200W's buttons are also like this.

Will I be disappointed with the buttons on the VT200?

It's been said that all buttons on DNA200 mods interact mechanically with the underlying switches on the board, is this true? Or, are there DNA200 mods that solder their own "real" push-style switches in?

If so, are there any that offer a true clicky, mitec / bb / etc. style button?

Thanks, all.

As far as I know all dna200 mods interact mechanically with the underlying switches like you say.

I thought I wouldn't like the buttons on the VT200 after hearing all the reviews. I'm used to the clicky buttons on the sigelei 150 and the koopor mini but after I got my VT200 I actually really like them. They definitely don't have a bb click, but I feel like they have a nice little quiet click. I actually really like that the buttons are quiet. They feel good to me. Not mushy like a playstation controller but somewhere in between that and a sigelei I guess.


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[Jalcide]

I honestly like the buttons on the hcigar vt200 but the fire button isn't as clicky as it could be but I know the onboard buttons of the DNA200 aren't too clicky. The up and down buttons have much more of a click then the power button but they all feel good to me. Some people have stated they are mushy while some reviewers say they are clicky but it could differ slightly from device to device. I know my vaporshark DNA200 has REALLY nice clicky buttons, I heard they use a separate switch thing lol (can't think of the word I'm looking for). By far I love the vs200 buttons, but I use my hcigar much more then the vs200.

Thanks for that. I think that confirms what I suspected. Decisions, decisions (but I won't consider the VS, due to its bottom screen).

 

[Jalcide]

As far as I know all dna200 mods interact mechanically with the underlying switches like you say.

I thought I wouldn't like the buttons on the VT200 after hearing all the reviews. I'm used to the clicky buttons on the sigelei 150 and the koopor mini but after I got my VT200 I actually really like them. They definitely don't have a bb click, but I feel like they have a nice little quiet click. I actually really like that the buttons are quiet. They feel good to me. Not mushy like a playstation controller but somewhere in between that and a sigelei I guess.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks much. That helps.

I guess the another advantage of a mod using the onboard switches, with a device this sensitive and powerful, is less of a variable in calibrated internal residence, and less worry about how a custom switch would handle current. There is less to go wrong, electrically-speaking.

 

[jj6404]

Thanks much. That helps.

I guess the another advantage of a mod using the onboard switches, with a device this sensitive and powerful, is less of a variable in calibrated internal residence, and less worry about how a custom switch would handle current. There is less to go wrong, electrically-speaking.

Yeah the buttons aren't like strong clicky bb buttons for sure man. But they are nice. I like them a lot. Just don't expect that feel but know that most every owner I've heard talk about theirs have no problem with the buttons and like them.


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[jstrong]

Is the SS 510 Version out yet?

 

[AtmizrOpin]

Is the SS 510 Version out yet?

yep

 

[jstrong]

NVM I see it. The new 510 is SS gold plated I kinda want one as a beater mod so my VS can stay in the house

 

[k2zs]

Well, I purchased one today. Was working in a mall yesterday in Niagara Falls and there was a Vape Shop there that had them on display. Got to hold and play with one in person. Since I was there for a service call he offered a fairly substantial discount (on B&M pricing) but I told him it would have to wait. Today I was sitting here thinking about it and "shinyeitis" took hold and I made a road trip back there (only 1 1/2 hours away ). lol...

Question; I'm running the case analyzer right now but was wondering if anyone knew what to put in for "mod resistance"?

 

[Rockwell222]

I know when the vt200's started coming out some people did the process to find out the mod resistance and I went with .0045 I think. But don't just take that and put it in, I know it's in this thread maybe around page 14 or so lol. All I know is it's in here somewhere.

 

[k2zs]

I know when the vt200's started coming out some people did the process to find out the mod resistance and I went with .0045 I think. But don't just take that and put it in, I know it's in this thread maybe around page 14 or so lol. All I know is it's in here somewhere.

Found it (actually way up in pages, 30-40 something) thanks...

 

[Rockwell222]

Found it (actually way up in pages, 30-40 something) thanks...

Sorry about that, I feel bad I sent you to page 14. What was the number that most used?

 

[k2zs]

So, Day 1:

Resurrected my Subtank Mini (first version with single sided air intake) and put in a new NI200 coil. Had bunches of issues even after setting up a profile for it. First it was cool, then it was hot, always asking me if it was a new coil after letting it sit for a bit. Then I tried using a blank profile (default) and it came out of TC and the coil popped!

I did some more research and played with the device monitor and watched what was going on. I let it cool and used the atomizer analyzer and locked in my ohms and it's been good since. I have my profile set up perfectly now and am getting a nice, consistent vape with the STM. Not my favorite atty but it will do for now.

Made a NI200 coil for my Derringer Dripper. First thing I notice is that a spaced coil w/ 28ga NI200 @ 2.5mm ID with 8 wraps barely fits and is right at the bottom edge of the allowed ohms (.093). How do you make a coil that will fit in a Kayfun and still be above .09 ohms? I'm more of a low wattage MTL vaper (ok, say it, I'm a tootle puffer). Should I get some 30ga NI200? What about Titanium? Would that work better?

 

[k2zs]

Sorry about that, I feel bad I sent you to page 14. What was the number that most used?

I just found the post with the .0045 and went with it lol... I may try using a shorted dripper and the atty analyzer to see if it's any different. At those values though, it's probably not that significant.

 

[Rockwell222]

So, Day 1:

Resurrected my Subtank Mini (first version with single sided air intake) and put in a new NI200 coil. Had bunches of issues even after setting up a profile for it. First it was cool, then it was hot, always asking me if it was a new coil after letting it sit for a bit. Then I tried using a blank profile (default) and it came out of TC and the coil popped!

I did some more research and played with the device monitor and watched what was going on. I let it cool and used the atomizer analyzer and locked in my ohms and it's been good since. I have my profile set up perfectly now and am getting a nice, consistent vape with the STM. Not my favorite atty but it will do for now.

Made a NI200 coil for my Derringer Dripper. First thing I notice is that a spaced coil w/ 28ga NI200 @ 2.5mm ID with 8 wraps barely fits and is right at the bottom edge of the allowed ohms (.093). How do you make a coil that will fit in a Kayfun and still be above .09 ohms? I'm more of a low wattage MTL vaper (ok, say it, I'm a tootle puffer). Should I get some 30ga NI200? What about Titanium? Would that work better?

I don't use ni200 anymore because of several reasons but mainly because of how low the resistance is. The dna200 chip says .08 for the lowest resistance but a lot of people says it can go down farther then that. I'm not suggesting making it a normal habit but I'm sure it could handle .05 without issues. I only use titanium in TC and sometimes SS but SS has had iffy results. With titanium your resistance will be higher so your build options are much greater, and it's much easier to work with. Make sure if you get titanium that first it's grade 1 and read reviews to be positive it's not springy titanium. As long as you get good titanium you should be very happy.

 

[Netranger]

I just found the post with the .0045 and went with it lol... I may try using a shorted dripper and the atty analyzer to see if it's any different. At those values though, it's probably not that significant.

Funny I also tried the .0045 setting and got a check atomizer on all my attys ??.I trolled the interwebs for hours and finally found a post from a vape shop who had done extensive tests and said to use .002.I tried that,and it seems to work good.

 

[Rockwell222]

Funny I also tried the .0045 setting and got a check atomizer on all my attys ??.I trolled the interwebs for hours and finally found a post from a vape shop who had done extensive tests and said to use .002.I tried that,and it seems to work good.

That's odd because if you put .0045 it should not say check atomizer unless you put a very high number in the place of it. All it's doing is adjusting the resistance by the amount you put to make TC especially more accurate. It's the mods internal resistance, I just find it odd that it said check atty to you. What atomizers did you try when it said that?

 

[mackman]

Netranger got a link to the post?

 

[k2zs]

Oh and BTW...

Starting with a full charge, I've put an entire tank through my Subtank Mini and maybe 2ml through a dripper and I'm still at 79% battery charge...