HCIGAR VT75

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GeorgeS

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  • May 31, 2015
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    When it comes to battery life and 26650 mods I've just resigned to making and using low energy/power builds.

    My two VT75's are usually set to a mere 20W in TC mode and can easily equal or exceed the run time of my dual 18650 mods under the same conditions.

    For low energy/power builds the VT75 with a 26650 is a killer form factor. However above 25-30W not so much. (I get out my dual 18650 mods or iJoy Lux for higher power needs)
     

    Jim_ MDP

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    When it comes to battery life and 26650 mods I've just resigned to making and using low energy/power builds.


    I think it looks like things are getting better since I got my VT75 back in Spring.
    Despite, or because of, Sony dropping out of the high CDR 26650 game... other's may be taking up the slack. I think there's a lot of potential to be tapped though, what with that humongous can. We'll see what comes.

    Or rather... likely, you all will.
    My 75's batt cap is still hard seized and that may end my 26650 experimentation. :(
     

    TrollDragon

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    I think it looks like things are getting better since I got my VT75 back in Spring.
    Despite, or because of, Sony dropping out of the high CDR 26650 game... other's may be taking up the slack. I think there's a lot of potential to be tapped though, what with that humongous can. We'll see what comes.

    Or rather... likely, you all will.
    My 75's batt cap is still hard seized and that may end my 26650 experimentation. :(
    Sounds like Dremel Time!!! Cut it out! :thumbs:

    FT sells the battery cover and even the Frame if you go too far... ;)
    Cover
    $7.04 Authentic HCigar VT75 75W Battery Cover - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

    Frame
    $15.16 Authentic HCigar VT75 75W Frame Body - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

    Threaded 510 connector too!
    $3.26 Authentic HCigar VT75 75W 510 Connector - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
     

    Jim_ MDP

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    SLM

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    TrollDragon

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    @Jim_ MDP are you in the UK?

    Hobbycraft must be like Michaels in North America.

    A couple of bucks for these should do the trick.
    Hobbycraft Bent Nose Pliers | Hobbycraft

    I'd put a little Liquid Wrench on the battery door threads as well to assist in getting it out. You can always clean up the oil later.
     
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    GeorgeS

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  • May 31, 2015
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    I think it looks like things are getting better since I got my VT75 back in Spring.
    Despite, or because of, Sony dropping out of the high CDR 26650 game... other's may be taking up the slack. I think there's a lot of potential to be tapped though, what with that humongous can. We'll see what comes.

    Or rather... likely, you all will.
    My 75's batt cap is still hard seized and that may end my 26650 experimentation. :(

    I have a few different 26650 powered mods. Since I'm a 'toodle puffer' at heart the low power low energy builds suit my vaping style well.

    (as an example, one of my favorites is a Nautilus with a NiFe build mounted on a Boxer 26650 mod. I can nearly drain the tank on one charge!)

    I did skip the "Pico Mega". IMHO I just don't like the battery cap thingie.
     

    trentenmarschel

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    Feb 22, 2014
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    So I found a great trick for getting the battery cap on. I was having issues with it and it was taking me like 5 minutes to try to get the dang thing on. But because the threads only snap on the device in one spot, I found that on mine if I line the vent holes up with the serial number and that other screw, and turn counter clock wise just a hair past that mark, it clicks and screws in perfectly every time now. I have attached a picture to help illustrate what I mean.
    smkSH8n.jpg


    Now the threads may not be in exactly the same spot on every device, so yours might have a different spot where the threads click. But pay attention to that sweet click where it threads on the correct way, and make a note of the alignment when it clicked, and it will be the same spot every time for either side of the battery cap.
     

    Eskie

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    So I found a great trick for getting the battery cap on. I was having issues with it and it was taking me like 5 minutes to try to get the dang thing on. But because the threads only snap on the device in one spot, I found that on mine if I line the vent holes up with the serial number and that other screw, and turn counter clock wise just a hair past that mark, it clicks and screws in perfectly every time now. I have attached a picture to help illustrate what I mean.
    smkSH8n.jpg


    Now the threads may not be in exactly the same spot on every device, so yours might have a different spot where the threads click. But pay attention to that sweet click where it threads on the correct way, and make a note of the alignment when it clicked, and it will be the same spot every time for either side of the battery cap.

    Nice find! I'll keep it in mind next time I swap a battery out. Haven't done so in quite some time as I just charge it though the usb, but if I'm ever caught short, it would be nice to easily swap for a charged 26650.
     

    _pierced_

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    Well my VT75 started acting weird. I'd take a few puffs and it would say short or check atomizer. If I unscrewed my tank and selected old coil it would work for a minute or 2. So I dealt with it for a few days. Figured it was my build so I rebuilt my mutation rta. Problem fixed? Ish... worked fine then started doing it again on top of my battery draining super fast. Turns out the ground screw (I think, the screw above the battery cap) was super loose. The battery cap screw was loose too. Tightened them up and it's working like new again. Totally forgot about them so if it happens again I know what the issue is. Any who just wanted to share my aggravating experience lol maybe someone else has had this issue. Still love this device. Pocket friendly and easy to carry around :D



    Sent from my 2PQ93 using Tapatalk
     

    TrollDragon

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    Well my VT75 started acting weird. I'd take a few puffs and it would say short or check atomizer. If I unscrewed my tank and selected old coil it would work for a minute or 2. So I dealt with it for a few days. Figured it was my build so I rebuilt my mutation rta. Problem fixed? Ish... worked fine then started doing it again on top of my battery draining super fast. Turns out the ground screw (I think, the screw above the battery cap) was super loose. The battery cap screw was loose too. Tightened them up and it's working like new again. Totally forgot about them so if it happens again I know what the issue is. Any who just wanted to share my aggravating experience lol maybe someone else has had this issue. Still love this device. Pocket friendly and easy to carry around :D



    Sent from my 2PQ93 using Tapatalk
    Thanks, great info! :thumbs:

    I ran mine today as well with the Ohmega Calypso, a nice pairing.
     

    TrollDragon

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    Any tips on how to remove the 510 ring from the tank ?
    Use a piece of heavy cloth, rubber or leather to protect the threads and turn it off with a pair of Channellock's (Water Pump Pliers).
    426-345.png


    When you get the 510 ring off, drill the two holes all the way through. Then you can use just about anything to get it unstuck that will fit in the holes.

    If you totally wreck the threads trying to get it off, Fasttech sells replacement 510 rings.
    $3.26 Authentic HCigar VT75 75W 510 Connector - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
     
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