Thank you kindly
Sadly they charge even more for shipping even though I'm just across the North-Sea, but you couldn't know that.
HCIGAR VT75
- Thread starter Lorenzo Morchio
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Thank you kindly
Sadly they charge even more for shipping even though I'm just across the North-Sea, but you couldn't know that.
That same amount, which makes it 3 to 4 bucks more expensive then the American version.
The savings in shipping time is probably worth the extra bucks though, but I'll look in to making something myself first because I'm cheap that way
I have an old South Bend Lathe in my work shop. It would be easy to make one. Although I don't think it will cut metric threads, nor do I have any pure copper stock either. And that one from Signature Tips looks better than the one I could make anyway. Mine would look more like the $11 one from Smoke Free mods.That same amount, which makes it 3 to 4 bucks more expensive then the American version.
The savings in shipping time is probably worth the extra bucks though, but I'll look in to making something myself first because I'm cheap that way
HCigar VT75 Nano Preview (Evolv DNA75) - Vaping360
There looks to be a new 18650 version called the Nano. I think I'd like this one better.
There looks to be a new 18650 version called the Nano. I think I'd like this one better.
Toodle puffing on a VT75
Both my VT75's have new Basen Blacks and low energy builds which get to 380F with a mere 20W of power. I've been very pleased with the use time I get out of these setups. However, my use time does not match the battery bar. Not in the least.
On both mods I've been monitoring the discharge cycle from time to time, usually graph in Escribe every morning to note the battery voltage and droop caused by the mere 20W of drive on my builds.
Yesterday AM my RED VT75 had a 56% battery indication (in escribe) and would droop from 3.69V all the way down to 3.17V however would quickly recover to 3.5-3.51V for the duration of the vape (or fire button press). Not to horrible.
This AM was a different story. I'd drawn the battery down to 53% and baseline voltage of 3.65V. Hitting fire in this case caused a droop to 2.96V and the battery was only able to recover to 3.13V. (the battery voltage would eventually recover back to 3.65V long after the vape was done)
While I did not capture it I experimented with my higher power profile (30W preheat and 25W drive) and found the mod was unable to satisfactory regulate the temperature with this profile.
I'm not sure about the rest of you but I'm a bit uncomfortable allowing droops into the sub 3V batter voltage.
Needless to say, the mod and almost new Basen Black is now on the charger.
It would seem to me that the mods 53% is really more akin to 3%.
Is there a way we can get the battery bar to more closely indicate the remaining battery? At this point I'm thinking if the battery indicator appears 1/2 way across the screen it is time for charging.
Both my VT75's have new Basen Blacks and low energy builds which get to 380F with a mere 20W of power. I've been very pleased with the use time I get out of these setups. However, my use time does not match the battery bar. Not in the least.
On both mods I've been monitoring the discharge cycle from time to time, usually graph in Escribe every morning to note the battery voltage and droop caused by the mere 20W of drive on my builds.
Yesterday AM my RED VT75 had a 56% battery indication (in escribe) and would droop from 3.69V all the way down to 3.17V however would quickly recover to 3.5-3.51V for the duration of the vape (or fire button press). Not to horrible.
This AM was a different story. I'd drawn the battery down to 53% and baseline voltage of 3.65V. Hitting fire in this case caused a droop to 2.96V and the battery was only able to recover to 3.13V. (the battery voltage would eventually recover back to 3.65V long after the vape was done)
While I did not capture it I experimented with my higher power profile (30W preheat and 25W drive) and found the mod was unable to satisfactory regulate the temperature with this profile.
I'm not sure about the rest of you but I'm a bit uncomfortable allowing droops into the sub 3V batter voltage.
Needless to say, the mod and almost new Basen Black is now on the charger.
It would seem to me that the mods 53% is really more akin to 3%.
Is there a way we can get the battery bar to more closely indicate the remaining battery? At this point I'm thinking if the battery indicator appears 1/2 way across the screen it is time for charging.
First... check that the "hard limit" for the battery is around 2.8. It won't go below that (I believe).
The default battery curve is pretty conservative, you may want to hunt down one for the Basen. And do install the battery behavior update. I don't know that it addresses your situation, but it might.
That's all I got at the moment... busy shopping on FT (broke down... had to do it sometime ).
The default battery curve is pretty conservative, you may want to hunt down one for the Basen. And do install the battery behavior update. I don't know that it addresses your situation, but it might.
That's all I got at the moment... busy shopping on FT (broke down... had to do it sometime
).
I just ordered a 'Opus" testing charger and 4 more Basen's as I can see a dual 26650 mod in my future.
While I like the size and 'feel' of the VT75, its not without DNA75 and build limitations:
As an example, the Presa 100 offers arguably a better vaping experience as it is usable over a wider range of builds and has a more user friendly menu system besides being offered at a mere fraction of the cost of DNA75 devices.
While I like the size and 'feel' of the VT75, its not without DNA75 and build limitations:
- the flathead screw on the bottom has tripped my RED one up more than once. First time ever I had to resort to a tool to fix a brand new out of the box mod.
- the DNA75 has a 1.4ohm build limit, while other mods/chipsets have similar (or less) specifications, (for example) a build I regularly use on a Pressa TC100 will yield "low resistance" messages on the DNA75.
- Oddly the DNA is limited to a mere 6V output making its usefulness in even VW mode limited. (I guess everyone is building subohm these days)
- The "preheat boost" is fairly to completely worthless on low energy builds. One might assume that a "SOFT" setting would be visible on the graph (and effect the resulting droop) however this is not the case.
- The VT75 was designed to be used with 26650 batteries however there is no setting for those batteries. It should of came with baseline profiles for popular 18650's as well as 26650's. (there is only LION and LIPO settings available)
As an example, the Presa 100 offers arguably a better vaping experience as it is usable over a wider range of builds and has a more user friendly menu system besides being offered at a mere fraction of the cost of DNA75 devices.
You must be a DTL (direct to lung) only inhaler. As MTL there is a huge difference in the quality of the DNA TC vape. And when connecting up an oscilloscope to the output of the chip, it is clear why the DNA gives you such a perfect vape.
Using an oscilloscope on a YiHi SX350J-V2 for example, and you see why the damn thing gives you such a rattlesnake vape. The thing is using pulses to regulate the temperature. That is like having an automobile's cruise control only floors it or idles it to maintain the speed. Maybe you like that kind of vape, but many of us doesn't.
The thing with YiHi's is that you can't simply drive your build with maximum joules output and expect a smooth vape! The YiHi's need to be turned down to setting that will bring your build up to temperature within a reasonable amount of time (say 0.5sec) and then let the "boost modes" take care of the preheat.
What your describing is user error as whatever 'rattlesnake' the YiHi's can produce is completely avoidable.
Yes, the YiHi's can be set so they will noticeably pulse or 'rattlesnake'. They can also be set so that does not happen or at least the regulation is not noticeable. The same could be said about a few other chipsets that I have. With the right 'wrong' settings they all can deliver a crappy vape.
I don't know of any single MTL vaper who vapes at full power. Yet the difference is quite noticeable. I have four oscilloscopes myself and I can see it on the scopes. Cheap VW and VV mods also use pulses to simulate a flat DC level. Yeah most people can tell it isn't very good. While I haven't done any testing on this yet, but I would assume regulating by pulsing will also gunk up coils much faster.
The difference being is that most of us don't judge the quality of our vape with a oscilloscope. "Pulsing" can be heard while vaping (the sound of the vapor 'skips') or felt in the draw.
If I can't "feel" or hear the regulation that does not mean it is not there but rather that it is not noticeable or effect the quality of the vape.
I've been able to get "pulsing" out of SXK, Dicodes, Yihi and Joytech chipsets. (just about everybody else) I've also been able to adjust them to get a smooth vape.
While the DNA chips offer a smoother DC output as evidenced by the oscilloscope, all the other players can offer a quality vape beyond the limitations of the DNA chips.
This is sort of like the old "Betamax" vs "VHS" conversation or the never ending wick material debacle.
I don't know why but I just don't really get DTL vaping, probably comes from 24 years of smoking.
I'd actually love to enjoy it because the whole big clouds thing looks fun but every time I try dual coils I either choke myself or just find it incredibly unsatisfying.
Funny, I don't get the M2L thing. I smoked for 44yrs.
- push fire button
- wrap lips around drip tip
- start inhaling
- release fire button
- stop inhaling
- disengage drip tip (remove lips from it)
- exhale
That is the cool thing about vaping. There is no WRONG way. Ton's of room for customization of the mods, builds and juice.
I think people's sensitivities changes all of the time. As one day it is fine and one day it is horrible. Then there are the connoisseurs that can always tell. Sure even I can get pulse regulation to vape sort of ok. But you have to give up things you like to get it usable. But then there are people who wouldn't know the difference and wouldn't care. And there must be lots of them out there because poorly designed and cheap mods do sell well.The difference being is that most of us don't judge the quality of our vape with a oscilloscope. "Pulsing" can be heard while vaping (the sound of the vapor 'skips') or felt in the draw.
If I can't "feel" or hear the regulation that does not mean it is not there but rather that it is not noticeable or effect the quality of the vape.
I've been able to get "pulsing" out of SXK, Dicodes, Yihi and Joytech chipsets. (just about everybody else) I've also been able to adjust them to get a smooth vape.
While the DNA chips offer a smoother DC output as evidenced by the oscilloscope, all the other players can offer a quality vape beyond the limitations of the DNA chips.
This is sort of like the old "Betamax" vs "VHS" conversation or the never ending wick material debacle.
It is pretty rare, but some smokers actually smoked DTL. Is that how you smoked? I vape both (most often) MTL and DTL. Both are quite different and even the same e-liquid can often tastes totally different.
I guess it is a personal perspective thing. I think "M2L" is rare. I've never have witnessed anyone doing it. Never actually heard of it until coming across ECF.
Everyone I know who smokes cigarettes does so 'direct to lung' as I pointed out before. What folks describe 'M2L' as I liken to smoking a cigar or tobacco pipe - puff a little into the mouth and sometimes inhale. Just not the way I or anyone I know smoked at all.
While there was and quite possibly is still some junk being sold on the market the current generation of Joytech (read inexpensive) does actually quite well as does the other high end chip sets. But then again they need to be operated properly.
I just watched a Pbusardo video on the DNA75/YiHi350J2 where he blindly set the SXminiML to maximum joules in TC mode "because he likes to vape that way" then complained about the rattle snaking.
Given that it takes a mere fraction of a second to fill my mouth up with vapor vs 3-5 seconds to fill my lung, I'd think D2L vapor's would be MUCH more exposed to pulsing and rattle snaking then M2L vapor's ever would be.
At the end of the day, all the other chip set OEM's products will fire and regulate a wider range of builds in TC/VW mode then the DNA75. The YiHi's don't have the stupid 'kick out of TC mode' feature that the DNA's have. (only the Joytech's share that stupid feature with DNA's)
Actually, I rate the Presa100 over the YiHi, Dicodes and DNA75 for ease of use and flexibility.
When does the DNA kick out of TC? I have only ever experienced that on the Cuboid with a poor build on the RTA.
Yeah... cigar puffing is akin to MTL. But that is a bit different. When I was a teenager and started smoking, one of the cooler kids said I was smoking wrong. I was puffing like a cigar. They told me instead of exhaling, you take it into your lungs. Wow! Cool nicotine rush! I was hooked! MTL to me is very much like sucking through a straw. Then instead of swallowing afterward, you inhale.
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