I torched my wires a few times before joining them in case of something like this but it didn't make a difference. Still though, it's probably not a bad idea to try wiping them down with alcohol and rinsing them before I do my next build so I'll give that a go a little later and see.
Heat Issues with Odysseus, Penelope, and Ithaka :/
- Thread starter gheebee
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I torched my wires a few times before joining them in case of something like this but it didn't make a difference. Still though, it's probably not a bad idea to try wiping them down with alcohol and rinsing them before I do my next build so I'll give that a go a little later and see.
I do wipe mine down with alcohol but I would think torching them should do it too!? Well try it out later and let us know
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Well, I took apart Odysseus and checked the plastic piece. It was the same thickness and shape as the new one but it looked old and worn so I replaced it and rebuilt with wires wiped down in alcohol and things seem a little better but there is still a little heat in the switch. I'll keep playing with it, I did use it for a good while before I noticed anything.
I didn't mention this before but might the magnets (3) I'm using in my switch have something to do with it? I haven't found anything to say they would but maybe I'll switch them out for a spring tomorrow...
I didn't mention this before but might the magnets (3) I'm using in my switch have something to do with it? I haven't found anything to say they would but maybe I'll switch them out for a spring tomorrow...
That would be a great idea Ghee. Switch back to the original switch spring and try it out.
Kind of forgot about this thread months ago after a long weekend but I'm still struggling with this so I thought I'd give trying to find a solution another go. Sometimes I'll be good for a couple of builds but then, like yesterday, I build over and over again only to get the same result over and over again (warm switch, mouthpiece, and/or base and, sometimes, increasing resistance). Anyway, I thought I'd try a less open-ended question this time; are there any other potential causes for shorts other than what I list below?
- positive lead touching base
- positive lead touching native feeding control piece (Ithaka) or upper ring (Odysseus, Penelope)
- positive lead touching side of mouthpiece (threaded part)
- positive lead touching negative wire (if even possible...)
- wraps in coil touching each other
- coil touching mouthpiece
This was all I could think of or find mentioned, is there anything else? Of course, I check all of these things every time I build so I'm posting this in the hope that there is something, hopefully simple, that I'm overlooking! As before, the vape usually seems more or less perfect when having these issues...
btw, I did try switching out the magnets for the spring but it didn't have any effect; seem to encounter the issue with the same frequency with magnets vs spring. Went back to magnets for all switches. Also, I've since purchased a wire welder to hopefully eliminate the possibility of the issue being with my joins; using this to make my wires makes no difference in how frequently this issue occurs either.
- positive lead touching base
- positive lead touching native feeding control piece (Ithaka) or upper ring (Odysseus, Penelope)
- positive lead touching side of mouthpiece (threaded part)
- positive lead touching negative wire (if even possible...)
- wraps in coil touching each other
- coil touching mouthpiece
This was all I could think of or find mentioned, is there anything else? Of course, I check all of these things every time I build so I'm posting this in the hope that there is something, hopefully simple, that I'm overlooking! As before, the vape usually seems more or less perfect when having these issues...
btw, I did try switching out the magnets for the spring but it didn't have any effect; seem to encounter the issue with the same frequency with magnets vs spring. Went back to magnets for all switches. Also, I've since purchased a wire welder to hopefully eliminate the possibility of the issue being with my joins; using this to make my wires makes no difference in how frequently this issue occurs either.
This has happened more with GGTS but it has happened with Just GG as well. With the GGTS, I could be using Odysseus, Ithaka, or Penelope and with the Just GG, I only really use Ithaka. As for wires, I make them myself using either 30 or 32 gauge Kanthal as the resistance wire and 32 gauge Nickel as the non-resistance wire. Lately wires are joined with the welder (Zapper 2) but the problem began back when I was twisting them.
thats why I asked you about wires gh. Its obvious that your joins touch where they must not touch, like on mouthpiece. Please make smaller joins or use premade wires or use your wire welder
I've been using the wire joiner since I got it and normally pay attention to that list of things I put in my earlier post when I build, including making sure that the wick and coil are somewhat recessed in the ceramic so that nothing can touch the mouthpiece. I did that again when I got home and the build got the warm button after a few vapes so I put it down and started typing a post about it. When I was done, I vaped it again and it didn't get warm; it's been a few hours now and it's been fine. I don't know, I've had plenty of builds that worked and worked great but plenty that gave me the warm button as well so I figured that there was some potential for a short that I was missing (besides the center post top nut on the coil that I forgot to include in my earlier list! 
). Looked into this so much and have had tons of practice but I still can't seem to consistently build anything problem free anymore and I have no idea why; I honestly can't see any difference between the coil I removed earlier and the one I have in now, besides the fact that I am not getting a warm button, and in doing what you said, I was just doing what I normally do. Is there any other way to give your build a short besides these:
- positive lead touching base
- positive lead touching native feeding control piece (Ithaka) or upper ring (Odysseus, Penelope)
- positive lead touching side of mouthpiece (threaded part)
- positive lead touching negative wire (if even possible...)
- wraps in coil touching each other
- coil touching mouthpiece
- coil touching center post top nut
?
). Looked into this so much and have had tons of practice but I still can't seem to consistently build anything problem free anymore and I have no idea why; I honestly can't see any difference between the coil I removed earlier and the one I have in now, besides the fact that I am not getting a warm button, and in doing what you said, I was just doing what I normally do. Is there any other way to give your build a short besides these:- positive lead touching base
- positive lead touching native feeding control piece (Ithaka) or upper ring (Odysseus, Penelope)
- positive lead touching side of mouthpiece (threaded part)
- positive lead touching negative wire (if even possible...)
- wraps in coil touching each other
- coil touching mouthpiece
- coil touching center post top nut
?
I wonder why all of your atties get hot suddenly after so many months of use. I would say that its the GGTS but it happens with justGG too. Maybe its the wick you use that brings you burn taste? Or you changed the way you build the wick by putting more or less wick on your atties?
last time my button was hot all was resolved with a thorough clean. I also replaced the button spring for a good measure. No more hot button since then.
The threads get really gunky as it seems.
The threads get really gunky as it seems.
I'll try again to take some pictures the next time I build and if it doesn't work, I'll post them and maybe that will help. As for the device, what issue with a GGTS itself might cause this? I figure it's not the device since I have a few and it's the same on all of them but it couldn't hurt to look into since in the short while that I've owned it, I've maybe had slightly more success with Just GG than GGTS. Never really get any burnt taste though, this problem kills me because the vape is usually excellent when it's happening. As for cleaning, I keep everything pretty clean; every so often I'll disassemble and give all the parts a few cycles in an ultrasonic cleaner.
For now though, they're all actually working good so I'm not going to mess with them. It'll be time to rebuild some of them soon enough though so I'll report back when that happens!
For now though, they're all actually working good so I'm not going to mess with them. It'll be time to rebuild some of them soon enough though so I'll report back when that happens!
GGTS or justGG cant be shorted in any way, so its the atomizers gh. Just check if wires are installed properly. Also keep in mind that big joints between R and NR wire can cause shorts. Also burn taste can come from big joints because wick on those big joints is compressed too much.
Well, for the past few days all of my builds have been OK so I've left them alone but with today came the inevitable rebuild of Odysseus. This is more or less the same setup that I have in an Ithaka right now and what will probably go into all of my others once they need to be rebuilt but, unlike the one in Ithaka, I get a warm switch with this build and have no idea why. I get a warm mouthpiece and base sometimes in both but I'm assuming this is because there is a few mm of resistance wire in the channels so I am not really concerned about this (of course, if it looks to you that this is not the reason when you see the pics, please let me know!).
Anyway, I attached some pictures as suggested a few posts back in the hopes that someone will notice something that I didn't notice. Regarding the picture that shows the positive channel, the ceramic was discolored from a previous build, not this one, and the wire does not touch the ceramic housing. As usual, flavor, vapor production, and throat hit are excellent...
edit: Hope the pictures are big enough. After jerking me around about the file sizes when I went to upload them, the site went and made them even smaller after I brought them down below the max size and uploaded them...
Anyway, I attached some pictures as suggested a few posts back in the hopes that someone will notice something that I didn't notice. Regarding the picture that shows the positive channel, the ceramic was discolored from a previous build, not this one, and the wire does not touch the ceramic housing. As usual, flavor, vapor production, and throat hit are excellent...
edit: Hope the pictures are big enough. After jerking me around about the file sizes when I went to upload them, the site went and made them even smaller after I brought them down below the max size and uploaded them...
I just spent the last 2 hours rebuilding this thing over and over again, but the result was the same every time. This time, I didn't bother with microcoils but everything else is the same. Even did one build with a wire that I twisted instead of using the welder and had the same result. Is there something else I should have taken pictures of?
Is the neg side attached to anything? Or does the silica hold it down.
Is there anyway to get a side profile shot from channel to channel? It's probably shadow, but it looks like the coil may be sitting low.
How far down does the r go in ceramic channel?
The pos wire. I can't see the end or at least not clearly. Double check to make sure there isn't a tail still sticking out. Loosen the nut if there is and tuck it in.
I'll keep looking.
Is there anyway to get a side profile shot from channel to channel? It's probably shadow, but it looks like the coil may be sitting low.
How far down does the r go in ceramic channel?
The pos wire. I can't see the end or at least not clearly. Double check to make sure there isn't a tail still sticking out. Loosen the nut if there is and tuck it in.
I'll keep looking.
Do you have a multimeter? If so when you tear it down completely turn your meter to the continuity beep setting (the one that beeps if you touch your 2 leads together. Touch the threaded part of the ceramic housing with 1 lead and the positive post with the other. You should not have a beep if so you have a short. If there is a beep take the housing apart and check the o-ring/plastic between the pin and the bottom of the housing. Also check your ceramic to make sure it has no weird cracks.
If no beeps there put in a wick and coil but trap the negative wire between the ring and the base instead of just in the channel. Wet your wick and put it on your mod without the mouthpiece or tank. Fire it a bit giving juice as needed to see if your button warms up. If it does then your positive wire is touching the base somewhere . Once you are sure the button isn't heating up put the mouthpiece on and screw it all the way down. Repeat the firing process. If the button starts heading up with the mouthpiece on loosen it all the way only have it on the base by about half a turn and repeat firing. If it is still heating up at this point then the coil or the positive end of the wire is touching the mouthpiece.
Good luck hope you get it going.
If no beeps there put in a wick and coil but trap the negative wire between the ring and the base instead of just in the channel. Wet your wick and put it on your mod without the mouthpiece or tank. Fire it a bit giving juice as needed to see if your button warms up. If it does then your positive wire is touching the base somewhere . Once you are sure the button isn't heating up put the mouthpiece on and screw it all the way down. Repeat the firing process. If the button starts heading up with the mouthpiece on loosen it all the way only have it on the base by about half a turn and repeat firing. If it is still heating up at this point then the coil or the positive end of the wire is touching the mouthpiece.
Good luck hope you get it going.
Thanks for the replies! I did a few more builds since my last post, noting the items that you mentioned and on the last one, at first, the button was getting a little hot but now it seems to be OK.
For all of the builds up until the last, I just had the silica holding the negative wire down. On this build that I just did and took pictures of, I have it trapped between the knurled ring and the base. Is the first picture attached to this post what you were looking for as far as the channels go? As far as the coil itself, I do try and recess the coil a bit to eliminate the possibility of it touching the mouthpiece when I screw it on but there is definitely plenty of space between it and the nut at the bottom of the ceramic. Also, with the positive lead, I screw the nut down on it to make a connection and then make circles with the wire, like in igetcha69's videos, to break it off. Made sure there was nothing sticking out with the last build though.
Never used the continuity beep setting but it was easy enough to find based on your description! Great tip. This helped eliminate a possibility I had been considering for a while, that something, maybe the post against the housing, was shorted with the rebuildable part itself but there was no beep when testing it with nothing installed. I did also follow your steps and, at first, got some heat when I put the mouthpiece on. Took it apart, took the pictures, put it back together again, and now there seems to be no heat; I got it fully assembled and will vape it for a while and keep an eye on the switch. The thing is though, it literally looks the same to me as before. One thing I keep thinking of is that when I'm screwing in the rebuildable part is that it's moving the positive wire but I kind of can't see why this would happen. I never force the part when screwing it down and have played with screwing it down harder sometimes and softer other times with no real difference in results.
It does seem to be something with the base and/or the mouthpiece though; any tips on avoiding this? It seems obvious enough to just keep the positive wire as flush as possible in the channel and I do this though. Basically, I seat the coil, gently pull the wire down into the channel, and use the blunt tip of a syringe to create a 90 degree bend in the wire so that, in the channel, it is flush with both the side and top of the ceramic; then I wrap at around the post, pull it snug, and tighten the nut.
Thanks again; I think we've made some progress but time will tell. In the mean time, hopefully everything looks as good to you all as it does to me in the picture! Please note that in the second picture, no coils are touching; it kind of looks like it a little because of some glare.
For all of the builds up until the last, I just had the silica holding the negative wire down. On this build that I just did and took pictures of, I have it trapped between the knurled ring and the base. Is the first picture attached to this post what you were looking for as far as the channels go? As far as the coil itself, I do try and recess the coil a bit to eliminate the possibility of it touching the mouthpiece when I screw it on but there is definitely plenty of space between it and the nut at the bottom of the ceramic. Also, with the positive lead, I screw the nut down on it to make a connection and then make circles with the wire, like in igetcha69's videos, to break it off. Made sure there was nothing sticking out with the last build though.
Never used the continuity beep setting but it was easy enough to find based on your description! Great tip. This helped eliminate a possibility I had been considering for a while, that something, maybe the post against the housing, was shorted with the rebuildable part itself but there was no beep when testing it with nothing installed. I did also follow your steps and, at first, got some heat when I put the mouthpiece on. Took it apart, took the pictures, put it back together again, and now there seems to be no heat; I got it fully assembled and will vape it for a while and keep an eye on the switch. The thing is though, it literally looks the same to me as before. One thing I keep thinking of is that when I'm screwing in the rebuildable part is that it's moving the positive wire but I kind of can't see why this would happen. I never force the part when screwing it down and have played with screwing it down harder sometimes and softer other times with no real difference in results.
It does seem to be something with the base and/or the mouthpiece though; any tips on avoiding this? It seems obvious enough to just keep the positive wire as flush as possible in the channel and I do this though. Basically, I seat the coil, gently pull the wire down into the channel, and use the blunt tip of a syringe to create a 90 degree bend in the wire so that, in the channel, it is flush with both the side and top of the ceramic; then I wrap at around the post, pull it snug, and tighten the nut.
Thanks again; I think we've made some progress but time will tell. In the mean time, hopefully everything looks as good to you all as it does to me in the picture! Please note that in the second picture, no coils are touching; it kind of looks like it a little because of some glare.
Could it maybe be shorting on the place marked with the red circle?, try to place the NR wire in one of the little cuts, as is shown in the picture (green stroke):
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