Heat Issues with Odysseus, Penelope, and Ithaka :/

[gheebee]

I often look at the build when it is having problems and think that I found the problem when I notice that but, when I look at it from a different angle there is a few mm of space between the wire and any metal there. Still though, I get what you mean about having the wire come straight down instead of on an angle. It seems a bit hard to do for me and it's something I haven't really worried about but on the next build, I will try and do it like in your annotations; definitely couldn't hurt!
As for now, I'm happy to report that everything is still going good with no recurrence of the warm switch! Thanks again everyone, tomorrow or Monday I think it will be time to rebuild an Ithaka so I will keep all of this in mind (whatever applies anyway, since we've been talking about Odysseus lately) and keep my fingers crossed that I get it on the first try!

 

[fright88]

Just one extra tip. Keep that bottom o-ring lubed well and don't over tighten. I doubt this is happening but it is possible the oring is catching if you are over tightening and twisting the positive pole just a bit causing the wire to touch the housing. Either way glad it is working for you now.

 

[BmoreJeff]

are you using magnet switch or using the spring? i had heat issues using magnet switches so i went back to spring and problem solved

 

[gheebee]

I got magnets in all of mine right now but had previously tried it with a spring only to get the same results. Maybe if it happens again, I'll give the switch another clean and put it back together with the spring instead.

 

[BmoreJeff]

yeah i had serious problems with magnets, not a fan of them. i vape between .3-.6 ohms dual coil at 3.7v and i do see the mod/atty getting warm but that is understandable, its gonna generate heat. even when i vape 1.2-1.6 ohms dual coil at 7.4v i have less heat issues. attys at low ohms will always get warm or give off some heat, there is a heat source we create inside that is absorbed by the metal housing but that should occur after 8-10 drags continuous not after one or two drags.

 

[gheebee]

I didn't have time to switch to a spring last night but, all of a sudden, an Ithaka that was working good for a couple of days started giving me the warm button. I did try something new though, I took the Ithaka off of the Just GG, screwed on it's 510 base, and put it on a ProVari. After dialing in the voltage, the atomizer fired every time and did not give any errors. Based on this, I'm guessing that it would have to be the magnets since the ProVari would (should) have detected any shorts. Going to switch back to a spring again when I get home and see what happens.
In the mean time I wonder, what does it mean if the heat in the switch is caused by the magnets, why does it happen? Like if you knew for a fact that your atomizer was good, would there be some danger in using the magnets if they were getting hot? Just curious. If the magnets are the cause then I will probably just remove them.

 

[Mddally]

I've had this happen a couple of times and every time it was the coil touching the roof of the mouthpiece.
Sometimes this problem is notably inconspicuous The switch gets hot and then it doesn't and you're trying to figure out why, it's probably the mouthpiece when making adjustments with juice control turning the mouthpiece open and then closed and now it's touching the coil.
You can chase your tail for days trying to figure this one out when all along it's the build. Check your coil make sure there are absolutely no wire above the top of the ceramic and the re-buildable part, push the wire down and I bet this problem will be solved.

 

[Mddally]

Couldn't help but notice in the pics posted that the nr wire is right at the top of the ceramic traveling down the wick channel in the re-buildable part, make sure you push this wire down.

 

[gheebee]

Well, switching from the magnets seems to have made a difference as I've been vaping this new Odysseus build since yesterday and I haven't gotten a warm switch once! Glad that this was suggested again because I probably would have not thought to try it again; maybe when I did it last time there was a problem with my build or something that I didn't notice. I have only switched out the magnets in one device though; what I'm going to do with the others is see how the switches are after I rebuild their atomizers and then if it gets warm again, I'll switch the magnets out of those as well and see what happens. I already miss the feel of the magnets though and while I will not use them anymore if they are the cause, I really wonder why they would cause heat while the spring seems to not do this.
Concerns about my coil touching the mouthpiece have come up a few times in this thread and similar threads and even though I really don't see how it could happen in my build (the last set of pictures posted were OK; I do see where one would think the wire was sticking up but it is just the picture, had a good look at it before I rebuilt it the last time), I've started building in a way that will further minimize, if not eliminate, the possibility of this. I'll post some pics next time I build but I just wrap the coil around a single wick, cut it short so that the ends are flush with the inside of the channels, and then lay a full wick over that and in the channels.

 

[Aal_]

What magnets are you using. Maybe they have high resistance and they are heating up.

 

[gheebee]

The magnets that I have are the Old Sam magnets. I know there are a few others that work in the switch, perhaps there is a better brand with a lower resistance? It's not a huge deal but I do prefer the feel of the magnets in the switch over the spring.

 

[Aal_]

I have the Old Sam magnets and I never had a problem. I am putting 3 there from button to body S-N-N. never had a problem with the button heating up but I never tried subohms on that particular GGTS.