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Heat Treatment/Torching to Color Stainless Steel and Titanium

Discussion in 'Cosmetic Mods' started by Sero, Apr 24, 2013.

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  1. manji1

    manji1 Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 11, 2013
    Dayton OH
    Has anyone tried coloring one of their mods in a kiln? I have access to one but I'm not sure of temperatures, length of time firing, proper cooling and sealing methods. Any input is appreciated.
     
  2. vapero

    vapero Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 13, 2013
    monterrey,mexico
    I really want to blue my nemesis clone lock ring but want a complete uniform finish I think the oven would suit it best but I need some pointers before i dive in, I don't want to ruin my best looking mod at the moment
     
  3. lunchb0x47

    lunchb0x47 Full Member

    Sep 10, 2012
    ontario
    Hey manji I pulled some info from a facebook post a long time ago. Made by some guy who torches mods in a kiln or oven. He said it doesn't take very long, whenever your piece gets up to temp take it out. Don't know how good it works I haven't done it myself yet, about to go try tho ^.^

    . Awesome"................... Pale Yellow----300°F
    Bright Yellow—350°F
    Straw Yellow---400°F
    Dark Straw Yellow--425°F
    Bronze------------450°F
    Purple------------475°F
    Violet------------500°F
    Dark Blue-------525°F
    Light Blue------550°F
    ”Clear” (Very Light) Blue---575°F
     
  4. ProjectIntegra

    ProjectIntegra Full Member

    Feb 9, 2013
    Ventura, California
    Nice info.. This might help on my next project.. :)
     
  5. Texaslimo

    Texaslimo Woof! Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 5, 2013
    TX
    Agreed

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
     
  6. Sero

    Sero Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Apr 29, 2009
    Spa City, AR
    Here is a titanium Bagua/Axiom that I anodized using 6 9v batteries. I do not recommend that by the way, get a power supply if you anodize titanium. Much easier and safer. Anodizing titanium is the same thing as torching titanium or Stainless Steel. The heat from the electricity/torch forms that oxide layer and reflects light which our eyes see as different colors. Aluminum is different because dye has to be added to get color. I decided to anodize instead of torch because I could get a more uniform result. In the end, it probably would have been just fine either way.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. VIPOD

    VIPOD Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 15, 2010
    NB,Canada

    That's it! the finish I wish!
     
  8. jakve

    jakve Full Member

    Jul 29, 2013
    Lappeenranta, Finland
    I tried torching on my Sigelei 8W and UD AGI yesterday evening. I was going for a kind of golden patina finish, and I think it turned out pretty decent considering I did it pretty much in the dark on the balcony and with a small, pen-style welding torch. Here's the result:

    [​IMG]

    There are a couple of darker spots here and there, but I really don't mind since the aged-kind-of look was exactly what I wanted.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  9. Texaslimo

    Texaslimo Woof! Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 5, 2013
    TX
    That looks to be pretty even..
     
  10. AveryJ

    AveryJ Full Member

    May 29, 2013
    United States
  11. AveryJ

    AveryJ Full Member

    May 29, 2013
    United States
    Well, here are my initial results. I used an old oven I keep in the barn for occasional projects.

    I pre-heated the oven to 550 and put the parts as centered as possible. Remember though, SS is conductive. So it will transfer the heat to whatever it can! Be it a pan or the rack itself. In this case, the 550 degree oven gave me results of heating the SS up to 450 degrees. I left it in for about 45 mins, but I don't think that was necessary, as I was at a good yellow in about 5 mins.

    View attachment 277507

    Overall, I'm pretty happy with it!

    View attachment 277508

    A little bit around the etching was not to even. That's about it.

    And remember, this process is creating an oxidation layer on top of the steel. So, if you are not happy with it, take a little scotch-brite to is and it will back to a brushed finish in no time!
     
  12. AveryJ

    AveryJ Full Member

    May 29, 2013
    United States
    Double post, Sorry.
     
  13. tharper2202

    tharper2202 Full Member

    Aug 4, 2013
    Ohio
    So I really enjoy building coils and tinker with stuff. After I rebuilt all my RBAs, I decided to heat treat a few extra drip tips I have. I really like how they came out and the contrast they add to my mods. I haven't tried doing a RBA top cap yet but I have an extra IGO-L cap just screaming for the torch.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Texaslimo

    Texaslimo Woof! Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Sep 5, 2013
    TX
    the links for your pics are broken..
     
  15. AveryJ

    AveryJ Full Member

    May 29, 2013
    United States
  16. Akolite

    Akolite Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Oct 25, 2013
    Eugene, Oregon
    I have a Igo-T and a Titanium drip tip that I want to do this to. What would I need to get it done?
     
  17. Blitzcrunk

    Blitzcrunk Full Member

    Jan 5, 2014
    alameda, CA, USA
    Oh man! thank you for this! Like alot!
     
  18. Slose

    Slose Full Member

    Jan 8, 2013
    Portland Oregon
    image.jpg
    Heres what I did a little two-tone action.
    I tried do this in my oven at 575 degrees and nothing happened for 3 hours. I had to used a torch to do this. I think I need a klin or more chromium in the stainless or something for this to work in a oven.
     
  19. Akolite

    Akolite Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Oct 25, 2013
    Eugene, Oregon
    Here's an Igo-T with a titanium drip tip. I did this with a torch obviously. The colors are much better in person.

    IMAG0019.jpg
     
  20. sumoman25

    sumoman25 Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Oct 27, 2011
    South Dakota
    Since no one has mentioned this yet, the color doesn't appear until you've taken the torch off the steel/titanium. The color will appear around the area the torch is focused on but that color won't be the exact same as the color of the area the torch is focused on. Also, it isn't always necessary to make the steel glow to achieve a color change, try heating it up slowly and stop before it glows.

    The best way I've found to get a uniform look is to attack the piece with a torch from the top, never from the sides. Put your piece on a chunk of ceramic to support it, and if your piece has a hole going down the middle (drip tip, rba top caps etc.) then the ceramic will block the heat from escaping out of the bottom, giving you a more even finish.
     
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