Has anyone tried coloring one of their mods in a kiln? I have access to one but I'm not sure of temperatures, length of time firing, proper cooling and sealing methods. Any input is appreciated.
Heat Treatment/Torching to Color Stainless Steel and Titanium
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I really want to blue my nemesis clone lock ring but want a complete uniform finish I think the oven would suit it best but I need some pointers before i dive in, I don't want to ruin my best looking mod at the moment
Hey manji I pulled some info from a facebook post a long time ago. Made by some guy who torches mods in a kiln or oven. He said it doesn't take very long, whenever your piece gets up to temp take it out. Don't know how good it works I haven't done it myself yet, about to go try tho ^.^
. Awesome"................... Pale Yellow----300°F
Bright Yellow—350°F
Straw Yellow---400°F
Dark Straw Yellow--425°F
Bronze------------450°F
Purple------------475°F
Violet------------500°F
Dark Blue-------525°F
Light Blue------550°F
”Clear” (Very Light) Blue---575°F
. Awesome"................... Pale Yellow----300°F
Bright Yellow—350°F
Straw Yellow---400°F
Dark Straw Yellow--425°F
Bronze------------450°F
Purple------------475°F
Violet------------500°F
Dark Blue-------525°F
Light Blue------550°F
”Clear” (Very Light) Blue---575°F
Here is a titanium Bagua/Axiom that I anodized using 6 9v batteries. I do not recommend that by the way, get a power supply if you anodize titanium. Much easier and safer. Anodizing titanium is the same thing as torching titanium or Stainless Steel. The heat from the electricity/torch forms that oxide layer and reflects light which our eyes see as different colors. Aluminum is different because dye has to be added to get color. I decided to anodize instead of torch because I could get a more uniform result. In the end, it probably would have been just fine either way.
Here is a titanium Bagua/Axiom that I anodized using 6 9v batteries. I do not recommend that by the way, get a power supply if you anodize titanium. Much easier and safer. Anodizing titanium is the same thing as torching titanium or Stainless Steel. The heat from the electricity/torch forms that oxide layer and reflects light which our eyes see as different colors. Aluminum is different because dye has to be added to get color. I decided to anodize instead of torch because I could get a more uniform result. In the end, it probably would have been just fine either way.
That's it! the finish I wish!
I tried torching on my Sigelei 8W and UD AGI yesterday evening. I was going for a kind of golden patina finish, and I think it turned out pretty decent considering I did it pretty much in the dark on the balcony and with a small, pen-style welding torch. Here's the result:
There are a couple of darker spots here and there, but I really don't mind since the aged-kind-of look was exactly what I wanted.
There are a couple of darker spots here and there, but I really don't mind since the aged-kind-of look was exactly what I wanted.
If anyone is interested here is the link lunchb0x47 was referring to with that temperature chart for SS heat coloring. It also covers a couple methods to accomplish it. Good reading if you're going to attempt it.
M.A.I.L. - Maille Artisans International League - Article
M.A.I.L. - Maille Artisans International League - Article
Well, here are my initial results. I used an old oven I keep in the barn for occasional projects.
I pre-heated the oven to 550 and put the parts as centered as possible. Remember though, SS is conductive. So it will transfer the heat to whatever it can! Be it a pan or the rack itself. In this case, the 550 degree oven gave me results of heating the SS up to 450 degrees. I left it in for about 45 mins, but I don't think that was necessary, as I was at a good yellow in about 5 mins.
View attachment 277507
Overall, I'm pretty happy with it!
View attachment 277508
A little bit around the etching was not to even. That's about it.
And remember, this process is creating an oxidation layer on top of the steel. So, if you are not happy with it, take a little scotch-brite to is and it will back to a brushed finish in no time!
I pre-heated the oven to 550 and put the parts as centered as possible. Remember though, SS is conductive. So it will transfer the heat to whatever it can! Be it a pan or the rack itself. In this case, the 550 degree oven gave me results of heating the SS up to 450 degrees. I left it in for about 45 mins, but I don't think that was necessary, as I was at a good yellow in about 5 mins.
View attachment 277507
Overall, I'm pretty happy with it!
View attachment 277508
A little bit around the etching was not to even. That's about it.
And remember, this process is creating an oxidation layer on top of the steel. So, if you are not happy with it, take a little scotch-brite to is and it will back to a brushed finish in no time!
So I really enjoy building coils and tinker with stuff. After I rebuilt all my RBAs, I decided to heat treat a few extra drip tips I have. I really like how they came out and the contrast they add to my mods. I haven't tried doing a RBA top cap yet but I have an extra IGO-L cap just screaming for the torch.
imgur: the simple image sharer
imgur: the simple image sharer
Sorry about that. Should have used imgur to begin with!
imgur: the simple image sharer
Sorry about that. Should have used imgur to begin with!
I have a Igo-T and a Titanium drip tip that I want to do this to. What would I need to get it done?
Heres what I did a little two-tone action.
I tried do this in my oven at 575 degrees and nothing happened for 3 hours. I had to used a torch to do this. I think I need a klin or more chromium in the stainless or something for this to work in a oven.
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Here's an Igo-T with a titanium drip tip. I did this with a torch obviously. The colors are much better in person.
Since no one has mentioned this yet, the color doesn't appear until you've taken the torch off the steel/titanium. The color will appear around the area the torch is focused on but that color won't be the exact same as the color of the area the torch is focused on. Also, it isn't always necessary to make the steel glow to achieve a color change, try heating it up slowly and stop before it glows.
The best way I've found to get a uniform look is to attack the piece with a torch from the top, never from the sides. Put your piece on a chunk of ceramic to support it, and if your piece has a hole going down the middle (drip tip, rba top caps etc.) then the ceramic will block the heat from escaping out of the bottom, giving you a more even finish.
The best way I've found to get a uniform look is to attack the piece with a torch from the top, never from the sides. Put your piece on a chunk of ceramic to support it, and if your piece has a hole going down the middle (drip tip, rba top caps etc.) then the ceramic will block the heat from escaping out of the bottom, giving you a more even finish.
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