HELP! Can I use my flat-top 18650 batts in my proVari V2??

[HolmanGT]

I'm sure it doesn't. Are they that hard to get? BTW, I love the look of the Tesla, may it RIP.

No the Teslas are everywhere and you can pick one up for about $60 rupees.

"hyperventilating" - It is called the Provari Syndrome - no known cure that I know of.

 

[Kristin0624]

Actually you can buy 99% alcohol at Wal-Mart and Costco and I assume most Rx shops these days. I was very surprised to see it and had never seen it available in local stores until just recently. And remember I live in the middle of nowhere - really.

But if you really have trouble finding the 99% stuff just go to your local liquor store and pick up a bottle of "Ever Clear" = almost 200 proof = around 95+% (more than close enough and no denaturing agents). Caveat no fair drinking the Ever Clear between cleanings... it will definitely clean "your clock".

I am sure the Provari will be everything you hope it to be and as far as hi-maintenance it really should require less than a lot of the Chinese mods. The Provari is built pretty tight without a whole lot of places to catch dirt and grim. I think the guys have more to clean than women because we are always sticking it in our jean pockets. And if you have ever pulled the pockets out before putting them in the wash you know what I am talking about.

@ EddardinWinter - WOW, what is that a life time supply of Noalox LOL

Really? Have you ever cleaned out a purse? lol

Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk 2

 

[tom_chang79]

This is a question I would like to hear Thrasher or Technonut's (sp?) opinion on.

I think I know what Baditude will say, which is what I say. The site for Provape says specifically to use AW IMRs. The owner's manual PDF, however only says IMR. So it may be these batteries are fine.

Only genuine AW IMR batteries, for me at least, mainly because I know they are safe and don't have the energy to do the research Thrasher has on batteries. To me there is no reason to risk anything, I only use AW IMRs.

EDIT: OP--I sent PMs to both of them, please check in for their responses.

When the difference in pricing between AW batts and other brands is a McDonald combo meal (large sized) why bother risking a thermal runaway or crappy performance? AW all the way for my Provari too...

 

[moishesmom]

No the Teslas are everywhere and you can pick one up for about $60 rupees.

"hyperventilating" - It is called the Provari Syndrome - no known cure that I know of.

I was referring to you getting your 'silver dream' today, not the Tesla. Good luck on that!

I already have CRS & now I'm going to have ProVari Syndrome? Wonder if Blue Cross covers that?..Hmmm, wouldn't that be sweet?

When my new baby arrives & all is well, the eternal search will be over. ProVari Syndrome can be good & save a lot of green in the long run (probably short run), can't wait.

 

[EddardinWinter]

Okay, here's the deal on the alcohol in my opinion. I tried the 91%. It is not as effective as the 99%. The 99% takes the oxidation/rubbish off immediately. Some if it seems to resist the 91% no matter how hard I try to remove it. It's up to you, Mo, but the 99% pint bottles are like 5 bucks + shipping. In this lion's opinion, well worth the resultant loss in aggrivation. Plus, it dries faster. I don't know about 95% ethanol for cleaning, I have never done it and don't plan to. Maybe it is fine...

I would not hesitate to try the alcohol bath (EDIT: with 99% isopropyl alcohol). I grew up nursing my SNES with alcohol and Q-tips so I could keep playing Techmo-Bowl, however. If you try the bath and it fails, you just send it in. I don't see the problem, really.


EDIT in bold for clarity.


Tapped out

 

[EddardinWinter]

Of course, I am coming fresh off of this "repair" which is fully endorsed by Provape. So you gotta have some faith. I read the instructions on the site, blinked, red them again, and went and got my hammer...

Here is the full tale:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/eddardinwinter/5000-problem-my-provari-top-cap.html

 

[moishesmom]

Okay, here's the deal on the alcohol in my opinion. I tried the 91%. It is not as effective as the 99%. The 99% takes the oxidation/rubbish off immediately. Some if it seems to resist the 91% no matter how hard I try to remove it. It's up to you, Mo, but the 99% pint bottles are like 5 bucks + shipping. In this lion's opinion, well worth the resultant loss in aggrivation. Plus, it dries faster. I don't know about 95% ethanol for cleaning, I have never done it and don't plan to. Maybe it is fine...

I would not hesitate to try the alcohol bath. I grew up nursing my SNES with alhohol and qtips so I could keep playing Techmo-Bowl, however. If you try the bath and it fails, you just send it in. I don't see the problem, really.

Good morning Edd. I'm going to go to Amazon today so I'll check it out. I've never given anything a 'bath'. All my mods have control tops so that leaves only the tubes & they've never needed a cleaning. I don't understand: If the well is deep enough & sealed - how & why would gunk get into the unit?

 

[moishesmom]

Of course, I am coming fresh off of this "repair" which is fully endorsed by Provape. So you gotta have some faith. I read the instructions on the site, blinked, red them again, and went and got my hammer...

Here is the full tale:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/eddardinwinter/5000-problem-my-provari-top-cap.html

Totally amazing! I wouldn't have the guts to do that. How is that possible without stripping the threads or messing up the board (which after a drop like that, well guess that part wouldn't be a concern).

 

[Technonut]

The contacts and threading on all of my mods, including mechs need maintenance . It's about the electrical conductivity. The threads become oxidized, e-liquid residue gets on the firing pin, etc.. This will act as an insulator against the flow of electrical current. While not to the degree of most folks noticing it much, over the long-term, performance can suffer. Especially battery life in an electronic mod. In the mechs, it will cause a degree of voltage drop.

EDIT: I personally clean my mods contacts once a week.. I clean and Noalox the threads every 2-3 weeks.

 

[moishesmom]

The contacts and threading on all of my mods, including mechs need maintenance . It's about the electrical conductivity. The threads become oxidized, e-liquid residue gets on the firing pin, etc.. This will act as an insulator against the flow of electrical current. While not to the degree of most folks noticing it much, over the long-term, performance can suffer. Especially battery life in an electronic mod. In the mechs, it will cause a degree of voltage drop.

Ready for another 'stupid' question - where's the 'firing pin'? I clean the well constantly & use Noalox when necessary.

 

[Technonut]

Ready for another 'stupid' question - where's the 'firing pin'? I clean the well constantly & use Noalox when necessary.

No such thing as a stupid question.. The brass pin in the 510 connector which makes contact with the atty.. It's good to get all the residue off of it once a week or so.. That's why the Lion likes the high-percentage alcohol to accomplish this.

 

[moishesmom]

No such thing as a stupid question.. The brass pin in the 510 connector which makes contact with the atty.. It's good to get all the residue off of it once a week or so.. That's why the Lion likes the high-percentage alcohol to accomplish this.

Thanks for trying to make me feel better but at this point I do feel 'stupid'. I just took my tank off the mod & all I see is the well. Are you talking about the brass bottom of the well as the 'pin'?

 

[Technonut]

Concerning the ProVari, the other contact point to be concerned with cleaning is the one inside the tube, where the top of the battery connects. This area is not sealed from the electronics, and needs a long Q-Tip to reach. The lower percentage alcohol has more water in it, which will take longer to evaporate. The higher the percentage, the quicker the evaporation, and less risk of water moisture hanging around on the electronics if some runs in when cleaning.

EDIT:

I just took my tank off the mod & all I see is the well. Are you talking about the brass bottom of the well as the 'pin'?

Yep, the brass piece in the bottom of the well..

 

[Technonut]

 

[Technonut]

 

[Technonut]

BTW: I don't agree with the paperclip scraping of brass (or any other metal) contact points like shown in the vids. After cleaning with alcohol, I just use a pencil eraser, followed by alcohol if necessary..

 

[moishesmom]

Concerning the ProVari, the other contact point to be concerned with cleaning is the one inside the tube, where the top of the battery connects. This area is not sealed from the electronics, and needs a long Q-Tip to reach. The lower percentage alcohol has more water in it, which will take longer to evaporate. The higher the percentage, the quicker the evaporation, and less risk of water moisture hanging around on the electronics if some runs in when cleaning.
EDIT:
Yep, the brass piece in the bottom of the well..

Thanks Techno - I feel better knowing that I was 'close' in my understanding what the pin is. I never considered cleaning the inside & I do have some mods where I can see that can be done & it shall be. Logic tells me that after the inside cleaning, I should let the piece sit & air out just to be sure there's no moisture left?

Adding long q-tips to my shopping list & thanks for the videos. They're being saved.

 

[moishesmom]

BTW: I don't agree with the paperclip scraping of brass (or any other metal) contact points like shown in the vids. After cleaning with alcohol, I just use a pencil eraser, followed by alcohol if necessary..

Paperclips NOT added to shopping list. I'd be afraid to scrape any part with anything that sharp. Never thought of an eraser - great idea!

 

[HolmanGT]

Okay, here's the deal on the alcohol in my opinion. I tried the 91%. It is not as effective as the 99%. The 99% takes the oxidation/rubbish off immediately. Some if it seems to resist the 91% no matter how hard I try to remove it. It's up to you, Mo, but the 99% pint bottles are like 5 bucks + shipping. In this lion's opinion, well worth the resultant loss in aggrivation. Plus, it dries faster. I don't know about 95% ethanol for cleaning, I have never done it and don't plan to. Maybe it is fine...

I would not hesitate to try the alcohol bath (EDIT: with 99% isopropyl alcohol). I grew up nursing my SNES with alcohol and Q-tips so I could keep playing Techmo-Bowl, however. If you try the bath and it fails, you just send it in. I don't see the problem, really.


EDIT in bold for clarity.


Tapped out

ED,

Well that is a surprise on the 91% not working very well. I wouldn't have thought there would be that much difference but good to know you have compared the two.

The ethanol suggestion I made reference to was from the old days when I worked for the DOD. We used 99.9% medical grade ethanol for cleaning because it left the least amount of residue - at least that was what I was told was the reasoning for using it. The only problem I had with the ethanol was when my buddy discovered you could mix it with Orange Crush and well you know the rest of that story.

But I won't suggest anything that is not specifically called out by ProVape. Between ProVape and your experience... well far be it from a newbie to suggest anything less than what the pros and experienced users suggest. (Hmmm... that sounds a little snippy - but is not intended to be).

 

[HolmanGT]

Paperclips NOT added to shopping list. I'd be afraid to scrape any part with anything that sharp. Never thought of an eraser - great idea!

Paperclips, boy am I glad you mentioned that. I saw that cleaning video also and I would never, ever, use a paper clip on the contacts. I would however use the wood end of the long Q-tips wetted with alcohol to burnish the contact.

That paper clip video frankly looks like the worst idea I have ever seen suggested for cleaning contacts. And from over 30 years working in the field of electronics it would take one heck of an argument for me to back down on that issue.