Help deciding what to stockup

[Bea-FL]

What's scary to me is not the coiling itself or installing them; and wicking I'm ok with. It's the current/electricity - I read somewhere about messing with electricity and what can happen if you don't do it right. Like causing an explosion. But I supposed an ohm meter would assure me that I did ok?

Does anyone here who does coiling live in northern Florida and is willing to do a class for us newbies?

Ok, so I cancelled the premade coils order - actually I hadn't quite completed it by the time I checked and all of you had already posted. So I'll order the kayfun that Two Bears suggests - should I order any spare parts?

 

[Two_Bears]

I should have said I got the pre built wires, they still need wicking so I have that learning curve too I am sure wrapping coils is easy just a lot to do and learn and so much to stock up on, I think I'll take it a bit slower LOL

Well you have to start somewhere.

Start as soon as yoy can.

start with wrapping coils

Then move on to installing the coil. Cut the leDs

Then fire the Kanthal coil.

Put the barrel over The coil and see if it touches tge barrel. Anywhere

Fire the coil. If you have a short your regulated mod will protect yoy by reporting a short.

In a mech the battery will get very hot and possibly vent or blow up.

 

[Two_Bears]

What's scary to me is not the coiling itself or installing them; and wicking I'm ok with. I read somewhere about messing with electricity and what can happen if you don't do it right. Like causing an explosion. But I supposed an ohm meter would assure me that I did ok?

Does anyone here who does coiling live in northern Florida and is willing to do a class for us newbies?

Exactly.

that is what is so great about an ohm meter. It provides current enough to read the resistance bur not enough current to fire the coil.

There's another option.

A LOT of people come to Tucson for tourism.

Come out for a vacation. Let me know when you're in town, and I will have you confidently rebuilding in 1 1/2 - 2 hours. Then see tge sites like tge Presidio, Sabino Canyon, architecture, anf hang out in a city older than America. Tucson was founded in 1775 about a year before the Declaration of indepence.

 

[Two_Bears]

Yep, hard core tootler here, and pretty much all my toppers are KFs, most are the EHPro V2Lite +. Great mtl tank. If a vaper is more inclined to DL, not a good choice

Same here.

I vape at 8-12.5 watts depending on the Juice.

My toppers are Kayfun mini's and s Silverplay Nano.

One Kayfun Mini has the Monster V3 base.

The other has a lite plus base under it.

 

[Bea-FL]

Exactly.

that is what is so great about an ohm meter. It provides current enough to read the resistance bur not enough current to fire the coil.

There's another option.

A LOT of people come to Tucson for tourism.

Come out for a vacation. Let me know when you're in town, and I will have you confidently rebuilding in 1 1/2 - 2 hours. Then see tge sites like tge Presidio, Sabino Canyon, architecture, anf hang out in a city older than America. Tucson was founded in 1775 about a year before the Declaration of indepence.

Thanks for the invitation Two Bears - maybe some day I will but not likely anytime soon. In the meantime maybe I'll start a new thread about a class for coiling.

 

[Two_Bears]

What's scary to me is not the coiling itself or installing them; and wicking I'm ok with. It's the current/electricity - I read somewhere about messing with electricity and what can happen if you don't do it right. Like causing an explosion. But I supposed an ohm meter would assure me that I did ok?

Does anyone here who does coiling live in northern Florida and is willing to do a class for us newbies?

Ok, so I cancelled the premade coils order - actually I hadn't quite completed it by the time I checked and all of you had already posted. So I'll order the Kayfun that Two Bears suggests - should I order any spare parts?

Yes you need spare O rings, and spare screws. Others can direct you to the orings and screws. I am about to run out for errands.

 

[lynn508]

Bea, you really need to watch a couple videos of simple builds for a coil. When I first started there were very few videos available so it was all trial and error. Nowadays you can actually buy pre-made coils and just pop them in the atty. The big thing is to just try, learning a new skill never hurt anyone and you will be so glad you did, not to mention the fact you will save money. I had absolutely no knowledge of electronics at all.

 

[DavidOck]

What's scary to me is not the coiling itself or installing them; and wicking I'm ok with. It's the current/electricity - I read somewhere about messing with electricity and what can happen if you don't do it right. Like causing an explosion. But I supposed an ohm meter would assure me that I did ok?

Does anyone here who does coiling live in northern Florida and is willing to do a class for us newbies?

Ok, so I cancelled the premade coils order - actually I hadn't quite completed it by the time I checked and all of you had already posted. So I'll order the Kayfun that Two Bears suggests - should I order any spare parts?

If using a regulated mod, the risks are minimal (although stuff happens!) since the mod - if working properly - will not fire if the resistance is too low. But checking the value at each step is important.

There are various "calculators" to determine how many wraps of each gauge wire to use for a desired final value. Steam Engine is one used by many. After a few, and if using the same gauge and wanting the same value, well, you no longer need the calculator.

Wind and mount the coil. Check resistance. If good, test fire. It should glow from the middle of the coil outward. Still good? Ready to wick.

How it's wicked will depend on what material you use and the geometry of the tank, another subject

Wet the wick well with juice and finish assembly. Check resistance. (Yeah, seems superfluous, but sometimes assembly can show up problems, like a tag of coil sticking out, which, in free air is ok, but may touch the sides when assembled.)

Still good? Fill and vape

Spares.... if going for the KFs, maybe some extra poly center tubes, o-rings, and some of the spare parts kits.

$0.97 Rubber O-Ring Seals for E-Cigarette (20-Pack) 20-pack - 19*17*1mm (OD*ID*T) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$1.92 Spare Parts Kit for Kayfun Lite Plus V2 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

and maybe these for the fill screw
$0.80 Rubber O-Ring Seals for E-Cigarette (10-Pack) 12-pack - 4*1.8*1mm (OD*ID*T) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

But most KFs come with spare terminal screws and tank o-rings as well.

 

[JCinFLA]

Maybe in my earlier posts I should've made it more clear what I meant by the different coils I'd ordered. My terminology may not have been the common wording used for them.

By ready-made coils, I meant the factory produced coils that come blister-packed and in a box of 5...totally ready to use. Those I ordered a few boxes of (the OCC ones) for my SubTank Minis.

When I said premade coils, (which I suggeted to Bea-FL), I meant I'd ordered boxes of the already wrapped coils (not wicked yet)...that I'd need to wick in order to use. It's those that I ordered 2 boxes of 100, in 1.5 and 1.8ohms. Got those for use in the STMs RBA deck and a few RDAs I got.

Since several others have said they also use the 2nd kind above...I don't see what's wrong with using them. If I feel more comfortable with them, rather than totally making coils from scratch, why the recommendations of not using them?

 

[DavidOck]

If they're the material and resistance you want, no reason not to - other than, perhaps, long term. There may not be any problems getting them in from China. Or there may be. And, while cheap enough, a spool of kanthal is cheaper. (But not a real significant cost either way.)

Personally, I like being able to look at my spools of kanthal and know I'll not have to wait on mail to vape

You do know that your STM factory heads are easily rebuildable? Easier than the old Kanger single coils that many of us started building on.

 

[Bob Chill]

I have 3 of these. They are darn good for 10 bucks. Buy the 34mm orchid plastic tanks and you have a full capacity kayfun lite without the weight of the steel rings. The one in the link is 27mm tank. Nice and stealthy.

$9.97 Kayfun Lite Pawns Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer (4ml) (Kayfun Lite Pawns, SS + PMMA) at m.FastTech.com

 

[lynn508]

Maybe in my earlier posts I should've made it more clear what I meant by the different coils I'd ordered. My terminology may not have been the common wording used for them.

By ready-made coils, I meant the factory produced coils that come blister-packed and in a box of 5...totally ready to use. Those I ordered a few boxes of (the OCC ones) for my SubTank Minis.

When I said premade coils, (which I suggeted to Bea-FL), I meant I'd ordered boxes of the already wrapped coils (not wicked yet)...that I'd need to wick in order to use. It's those that I ordered 2 boxes of 100, in 1.5 and 1.8ohms. Got those for use in the STMs RBA deck and a few RDAs I got.

Since several others have said they also use the 2nd kind above...I don't see what's wrong with using them. If I feel more comfortable with them, rather than totally making coils from scratch, why the recommendations of not using them?

 

[lynn508]

I use both...have the wire and coiler, but when I can buy 50 pre-wrapped 1.2 ohm coils at 26 gauge for 8.50 us I figure it just saves me time and effort. Since I use a new coil about every three to four weeks that pack of 50 should last me about 3 years. That I can live with, lol. I made spaced coils on a straightened giant paperclip for several years. This new stuff is great.

 

[Detroit Doug]

I hope this doesn't violate any forum rules. I have no association with Vapor Range, other than a satisfied customer, and user of the product.

EHPro Kayfun Lite Plus V2 22mm RBA Rebuildable Atty

For $9.95 (free shipping) you get the tank, spare tank parts, spare o rings, some wick that I haven't used, that I assume is silica, a length of unidentified wire, and a funky screwdriver.

I liked it enough, that I got 8 of them for the stash. Even if you don't use it now, for $20 shipped, you'd have 2 tanks & parts that will last a long time, when you do need to press them into service.

 

[Frenchfry1942]

@Detroit Doug , I just took a look at that EHPro and it only has a single air hole. My V2 have two air holes, and surprisingly, are made by EHPro.

Also, my air hole underneath the coil is bigger. I think that is actually a V1.

 

[JCinFLA]

If they're the material and resistance you want, no reason not to - other than, perhaps, long term. There may not be any problems getting them in from China. Or there may be. And, while cheap enough, a spool of kanthal is cheaper. (But not a real significant cost either way.)

Wasn't so much feeling you were discouraging using them, as was another poster. So I wondered why.

I figure if the premade ones last even 2 weeks each (since I won't be using just the STMs RBA deck nor the RDAs daily)...those 2 boxes of 100 will easily last me 8+ years! By then, if I'm still around and vaping...I'll buy some Kanthal A1 wire and learn to make some.

You do know that your STM factory heads are easily rebuildable? Easier than the old Kanger single coils that many of us started building on.

Yep, neighbor vaper told me that when I got 6 of the STMs on sale and several boxes of the OCC coils. Told me to hang onto my used coils, and he'd either rebuild them for me or show me how to do it.

 

[Frenchfry1942]

Kind of in the same vein as my last post, I have Squape Rs and Kanger STM sets that have more air flow. They are a bit more airflow for when I want it.

 

[lynn508]

When I bought my first mech mod the Nemisis back years ago I had no idea how to use it. I figured I would eventually learn all about it, and I did. They had an FDA scare back then too, but this mess today is worse.

 

[JCinFLA]

...when I can buy 50 pre-wrapped 1.2 ohm coils at 26 gauge for 8.50 us I figure it just saves me time and effort. Since I use a new coil about every three to four weeks that pack of 50 should last me about 3 years.

Someone else who thinks similar to the way I do! Time & effort saved...low cost alternative...but also have materials/tools to make them if/when you want to later...

 

[Detroit Doug]

@Detroit Doug , I just took a look at that EHPro and it only has a single air hole. My V2 have two air holes, and surprisingly, are made by EHPro.

Also, my air hole underneath the coil is bigger. I think that is actually a V1.

I think they used an old photo(s) on their site. The ones I received have 2 air adjustment screws on the bottom, and the drip tip is different. The one on the site is smooth with a rounded tip. Mine have a 'step' (for lack of better term). I should have gotten a better shot of the bottom of the tank, but I was going for a tilted shot to try and show both.

You are correct, that the pics on their site are not right.