You might also want to jump over to the international forums, I can't remember if I saw a turkey specific forum over there or not, but if there is, they'll be able to give you better advice about shopping and your country's law or limitations.
help for this ignorant...
- Thread starter Srkclk
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Let us know if you have any more questions, Srkclk... we'd be happy to help you with your vape.
My build is within the limits of my device on my settings.
Samsung INR 18650 25R are rated at 20 amp continuous power(35a burst), at .11 ohms running between 30-35 watts (depending on juice strength) puts me between a 16.5 - 17.8 amp draw, that leaves me 10% headspace for continuous draw, and almost 50% for burst. (besides vaping is done at a burst, continuous is for devices such as laptops, lighting etc.)
Pioneer4You IPV3 Li has a 40a Power handling capability so even if the batteries were to push their max burst amperage it's below the devices capability.
So while this may pushing the limits of what you deem acceptable, it doesn't go beyond what it was designed for or capable of. (please don't mistake any of this as me being hostile, tone is difficult to project in written word).
Fair enough, and no hostility is taken. I still disagree, and I most definitely think it poor advice for a n00b. Neither is that intended to be hostile.
You might try one of the Innokin Coolfire IV's for a first box. As far as tanks, I like my Horizon Arctic, but I am leaning toward a new tank, such as the Starre or TCV4.
A 0.11 resistance has a 42 amp draw according to my Ohm's Law calculations:
1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway
Since your IPV3's dual batteries combined should provide 40 amps, you're opperating them at their upper CDR at that resistance. Yeah, you're still within spec of your regulated device. This would be above spec for a mechanical mod.
Everyone is free to set their own parameters, and I can only say what mine are.
I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So with a 20A batteries, that would be 10A. The above Ohm's Law Calculator tells me that a .4 ohm build is as low as I would want to use.
The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries C rating (amp limit). So down the road, your 20A battery may only be a 10A battery.
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway
Since your IPV3's dual batteries combined should provide 40 amps, you're opperating them at their upper CDR at that resistance. Yeah, you're still within spec of your regulated device. This would be above spec for a mechanical mod.
Everyone is free to set their own parameters, and I can only say what mine are.
I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So with a 20A batteries, that would be 10A. The above Ohm's Law Calculator tells me that a .4 ohm build is as low as I would want to use.
The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries C rating (amp limit). So down the road, your 20A battery may only be a 10A battery.
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