Slightly different chemistry. Both equally top of the line at this time
Help me finish shopping
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Slightly different chemistry. Both equally top of the line at this time
You'll be fine with either battery. I have the HG2's and they're solid performers.
I am not quite worried about performance I am more worried about which one can handle more just incase I test my limits. But thanks Douggro, I do want the HG2's for the mah's because the samsungs are 500 mahs less than the hg2's
I believe that was my post you're referring to on the Griffin airflow, I've given up on it, doesn't matter the build I put in the airflow is just too tight. But that being said I like my airflow wiiiide open so I'm just going to stick to RDA's.
You must really like alooot alooot of airflow like the Mutation you are using which has several airflow slots. Hmm. Do you know the youtube reviewer Mike Vapes? When he did his review he said it has "airflow for days". So I don't know if it will be good enough for me or not. To each their own.
Yeah I do like a lot of airflow, very little restriction when I inhale, the mutation is great for airflow but does have both direct and indirect so perfect for me. Also the alliance v2 with the largest holes full open is heaven!
I think it's hard to say to be honest, my preferences toward airflow some may view as slightly too excessive but hell, it's my vape right?
I was premature in buying the Griffin, I found the drip tip got too hot for me and the airflow I just couldn't get comfortable with. That's not to say it isn't a good tank, it's made very well and the velocity style deck is really easy to build on. Just not for me I'm afraid, which is a shame because I really wanted to like it!
Different strokes for different folks I guess
Does anybody else think that the Griffin RTA is restrictive and not very good for airflow?
I believe that Mooch rated them both as 20A CDR. If you're using a regulated mod (iStick 100, right?) you're going to be hard-pressed to push either of them to limit.
It's a little tighter than my Aromamizer, but I also stuffed in a 3mm 26/32 Clapton build that's just about maxed out the chamber. BUt it has a lot more flow than my other sub-Ohm tanks.
Yeah the Istick 100 watt is what I am going to buy. So basically just get the HG2's?
Who is Mooch btw?
I'm running the HG2's in my Cuboid and RX200. Safety threshold for a .3Ω build is around 85W, which I never get close to - most of the time I'm around 50W with the Aromamizer and Griffin. And yes, the both the Griffin and Aromamizer deliver nice lung hits. I'd put the airflow of the Griffin on par with the Crown.
Mooch is an ECF member and blogger who has done extensive independent tests and ratings of all the mainstream batteries sold for vaping equipment. He's highly regarded for his efforts to provide real-world numbers and evaluations over the sometimes over-inflated claims of the vendor. A Google search will turn up his work, as will a search here.
So 85 watts with a .3 ohm build is pushing 20 amps? So if I was to build like a .2, .25, what is like my maximum. I mean I get do the calculations myself with ohms law calculator, but I am not not scientist and I am scared of batterys lol. Even though ohms law says I might be in the safety limit I still have not did thourough research on these batterys and am going with the trust of what people tell me which I am guessing 20 amps is max and some people I guess pulse them at higher amps but only for a second or two?
A .3Ω coil could fire at ~125W with the batteries at the max discharge state of ~3.2V. But you also need to account for any inefficiencies in the mod - say 90%+ efficiency for the mod, max discharge state and the safe CDR for the batteries. If you use something like the HG2's, which Mooch has given a "safe" CDR of 20A, 85W gives you plenty of safety margin. You could exceed that for short pulses, but let's be real-world and say you're firing for 5-8 seconds. Even at the max of 100W on the iStick, you'd be safe with a .2Ω coil.
The lower the ohms basically means i could go higher wattage correct ? But yeah the I stick only does 100 watts but their is upgradeable firmware for it to take it up to 120 watts. But honest I doubt ill be anyware that high. I might get up to 80 im not sure honestly. Kinda scary if you ask me.
Lower Ohm builds usually mean using more power to get the heat from them in a timely manner suitable for vaping.
So basically i was right in a sense of what you said, which is getting the heat in a timely manner, which involves higher watts. Cool got it.
But basically going back to the amps on the hg2's, ill just check an hms calcular and if im getting a reading of 20 amps or less i should be fine right. Because as soon as i build my coils im going to put the build on my istick to get the reading(hopefully its accurate) because i dont have an ohm meter i just always use my mod to check oihms and voltage and stuff like that. Then im going to open up ohms law cakcular type in my watt/ ohms im running/ and i should get the voltage and amps justfrom inputing the firsttwo i just stated. If 20 amps or lower im good theorectically speaking right?
Sorry for all the questions, but you never be too safe..i had to ask even though it might seem stupid to some.
Getting more scientific would I guess mean how long you take pulls on the battery?
In part, yes - continuous load stresses the battery more.
What you're really targeting is what are the parameters at the lowest usable discharge state of the batteries that won't exceed the CDR rating for the batteries. Most regulated mods will cut out when the charge state gets to around 3.2V. If your mod puts the batteries in series, double that to 6.4V for the calculation. Give yourself 15-20% overhead margin for safety; if the calculation shows that you could run a build at 100W at the lowest discharge state, you're going to be fine at 80W. There's still even more margin there because we rarely run our batteries down that far, so you could run that build at 100W with no issues with batteries that haven't dipped into the lower end of their charge state.
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