Help me understand high wattage mods

[6steelstrings]

I have been looking at safe vaping charts and it seems to me that if you go over 10 watts you are getting into a zone that is considered unsafe and may burn your juice or burn out your coil. So why does one need a high wattage mod? Seems like if you go over 10-12 watts you are going to get some burnt tasting hits.

Help me understand.

 

[6steelstrings]

I have been looking at safe vaping charts and it seems to me that if you go over 10 watts you are getting into a zone that is considered unsafe and may burn your juice or burn out your coil. So why does one need a high wattage mod? Seems like if you go over 10-12 watts you are going to get some burnt tasting hits.

Help me understand.

I just realized that I posted this in the sub ohm discussion and it should be in the Variable Voltage APV Discussion. Moderators feel free to move.

 

[Hitmetwice]

It depends on the coil and the juice I think. I'm no authority by any stretch as I've only been vaping at 0.5 ohm for a day but will tell you what I discovered.

Using the ego one clearo with a .5ohm coil my 25r batteries fresh off the charger at 4.2 volts are too hot.
The vape is not enjoyable, but once the batts have discharged down to 4 volts they are pushing about 30 watts which is a very enjoyable vape.

With a regulated mod one may be able to stay at the 30 watt setting from start to finish.

My favorite DIY liquid however doesn't like the wattage and gives bad flavour, I'll need to buy a regulated mod myself so I can find a wattage to vape the almost 1/2 a litre I have pre-mixed. Cheers.

 

[6steelstrings]

With a regulated mod one may be able to stay at the 30 watt setting from start to finish.

But how is that possible? Looking at any of the vaping charts I have, 30 watts is well into the extreme danger zone with probable damage to the coil. Am I reading the charts wrong or are the charts just garbage?

 

[Hitmetwice]

Not sure what you're looking at but this is a vaping site..,. Ohm's law | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

 

[6steelstrings]

Not sure what you're looking at but this is a vaping site..,. Ohm's law | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

I have been to that site and it confirms what I see on this chart. With a 1 ohm coil at 30 watts you are well into what they call the danger zone. The site you showed me just confirms that the math is correct. I still don't understand how you can vape at 30 watts and not have it taste like burnt motor oil. What am I missing?

 

[defdock]

airflow - most clearomizers have horribly tight airflow, and those charts were made for those types

the more airflow involved, the more heat can be "removed" from the coil before it gets too hot and burns/scorches juice.


also coil size and gauge have alot of influence too - but the main factor is airflow.



change the coil gauge in the vaping calculator, keep the same ohms, you will notice the "heat flux" at 30w will go down conciderably.

 

[readeuler]

I have been to that site and it confirms what I see on this chart. With a 1 ohm coil at 30 watts you are well into what they call the danger zone. The site you showed me just confirms that the math is correct. I still don't understand how you can vape at 30 watts and not have it taste like burnt motor oil. What am I missing?

Those charts are ancient vaping history - if all you had were dangling wick clearomizers and maybe an EVOD or two, or a cigalike 510 atomizer, then yes, follow that chart like your life depends on it.

With the older atomizers, leaving the safe zone on the chart could very well lead to excessively high temperatures. I believe this is for 3 reasons:

1) Inadequate Airflow
2) Inefficient Wicking
3) Extremely thin resistance wire (comprising the coils)

But with new rebuildable atomizers, or the new sub-ohm atomizers, all of these things are changed (or with rebuildables, you can change it yourself).

1) Airflow helps keep things cool. Cheap clearomizers tend to feel like you're sucking a watermelon through a straw, right? Not so with many equipment choices today. In fact, if I'm dry-firing my rebuildable coils, I can blow on them to keep them from glowing for an additional few seconds; the moving air really dissipates a lot of heat.

2) A well-saturated wick is probably the single most important important factor in keeping temperatures down. The battery heats the coil(s) up. This heat vaporizes the juice, which steals that heat from the coil, thereby cooling the coil. With an inefficient wick, once you've vaporized the initial juice, new liquid can't enter quickly enough to keep temperatures down; you've become a victim of the dreaded "dry hit" and all its associated nasties. But with an efficient wick, new liquid reaches the coil, continually cooling it down. You can take sustained inhales of nice, cool vapor.

3) Thin wire means heat concentrated in a smaller object. If you throw a thimble of water on the stove, it gets hot fast! But if you have a whole pot of water, it doesn't happen as quickly. It just takes more work to heat up a larger coil (and, conversely, more liquid to cool it down; efficient wicking again becomes paramount)

Simply put, there's a lot of stuff going on when you press the fire button! It's most definitely possible to have a lovely cool vape at 50 watts, because I do just that. All day, every day

 

[defdock]

explained everything i was to lazy to post ^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[6steelstrings]

Thanks Readeuler for the excellent reply. So I guess it is just trial and error when using a Kayfun or other RBAs that have great airflow. I guess I can start low and go up in small increments until I find the sweet spot.

 

[Hitmetwice]

Those charts are ancient vaping history - if all you had were dangling wick clearomizers and maybe an EVOD or two, or a cigalike 510 atomizer, then yes, follow that chart like your life depends on it.

With the older atomizers, leaving the safe zone on the chart could very well lead to excessively high temperatures. I believe this is for 3 reasons:

1) Inadequate Airflow
2) Inefficient Wicking
3) Extremely thin resistance wire (comprising the coils)

But with new rebuildable atomizers, or the new sub-ohm atomizers, all of these things are changed (or with rebuildables, you can change it yourself).

1) Airflow helps keep things cool. Cheap clearomizers tend to feel like you're sucking a watermelon through a straw, right? Not so with many equipment choices today. In fact, if I'm dry-firing my rebuildable coils, I can blow on them to keep them from glowing for an additional few seconds; the moving air really dissipates a lot of heat.

2) A well-saturated wick is probably the single most important important factor in keeping temperatures down. The battery heats the coil(s) up. This heat vaporizes the juice, which steals that heat from the coil, thereby cooling the coil. With an inefficient wick, once you've vaporized the initial juice, new liquid can't enter quickly enough to keep temperatures down; you've become a victim of the dreaded "dry hit" and all its associated nasties. But with an efficient wick, new liquid reaches the coil, continually cooling it down. You can take sustained inhales of nice, cool vapor.

3) Thin wire means heat concentrated in a smaller object. If you throw a thimble of water on the stove, it gets hot fast! But if you have a whole pot of water, it doesn't happen as quickly. It just takes more work to heat up a larger coil (and, conversely, more liquid to cool it down; efficient wicking again becomes paramount)

Simply put, there's a lot of stuff going on when you press the fire button! It's most definitely possible to have a lovely cool vape at 50 watts, because I do just that. All day, every day

Wow, just wow. Even this uneducated bum (me) learned somthin' taday. Thank-you both.