Help!! Noob with 5v box mod with TI chip!!!

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Curvychic

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No, not yet. I was kind of hoping to wait until that atty arrived, but then it was eaten by the PO. I did get my CE2's in today and my 510 extenders and still nothing... I will get the hubby to go ahead with the resurrection. Sorry for the delay...yes, I did get quite preoccupied with my new Go-Go! LOL Don't be mad at me Gummy Bear... I might eat you for a snack. LOL JUST KIDDING!! I love you guys!!! I'm just in a silly mood today.... don't mind me...
 

AttyPops

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File:2006_Nickel_Proof_Obv.png
P.S. Bet a virtual nickel that the atty would have worked...........

......I did get my CE2's in today and my 510 extenders and still nothing... I will get the hubby to go ahead with the resurrection......

Crap! Here's the nickel:

220px-2006_Nickel_Proof_Obv.png
 
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Curvychic

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Oh no!!! I may procrastinate, but I NEVER give up until I've tried all possible solutions!! You all have been far too helpful and patient to just toss it to the side with no resolution!!! ;) Have no fear as the hubby is in the kitchen now trying to solder that capacitor in!!! Hopefully, he can get it in and I will be able to report back this evening. :D
It's all good, I just thought what with your new toy you may have just tossed this one.
 

Curvychic

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Okay, so the results are in.................and...............FAIL! GRRRRR. Hubby got the capacitor in FINALLY!! He said it wasn't easy. I tried the regular atties...nothing. Put an LR on there and it fired fine, like before. I put on the CE2 cart and nothing (it works great on my ego batt). Now that I have the 510 extenders, I put my ego T atty on it and it works!!! This has got to be the screwiest thing ever.

I will say that my hubby built the flashlight mod. The regular atties work fine on this, but the CE2s and the ego T atties won't fire.

Okay wait a minute....Hubby just screwed on his CE2 and it works great. He said he thinks it the green button you press to fire (it's called a switch right?) If he presses it several times, he can get it to fire. I just tried the regular atty and you believe that the %@^$** thing fires?????? I swear to you, I JUST tried and it didn't work. I've tried for days...... He had to lift up the epoxied chip to access the wires. I'm wondering if he just has the freakin magic touch. Talk about frustrating. Maybe the cap did help and it just took a minute for it to "kick in"????

Edited to add:

The LR atty never misfired though....
 
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clutchjunkie

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Yeah, it's probably a bad switch. I had something similar happen recently when some juice got in the switch on one of my mods, I took the switch apart and cleaned the crud out of it and it works fine now. Try putting the regular atty on and touch both tips on the back of the switch with something metal for a second or two, if the atty fires then that's it. They sell those switches at madvapes if you end up needing a new one.
 

AttyPops

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If he presses it several times, he can get it to fire.
Sigh.

The LR atty never misfired though....
Sigh.

<bewildered expression>

Did we ever check what voltage it is actually putting out?

P.S. Do you have other 14500's (like high-drain batts?)
 
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AttyPops

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It doesn't make much sense why the button would perform differently depending on what atty is screwed on.

Let's see what Gummy, or whomever, thinks about this (since I don't play with those power modules much). You are "robbing Peter to pay Paul" with this module using only one (small) battery.... it takes some extra amps and converts them to volts... i.e. more amps input, less output but more volts (boost). That's how you get 5 volts from a 3.7 volt battery. Now, maybe there's something going on here where it just can't get enough amps, so voltage suffers. It's enough volts to fire the LR atty since they are hotter at lower voltages, but won't fire the higher resistance atty. A high drain battery would not have that issue.

So, we test with BOTH batteries. We can try BOTH series and parallel. All we need to do is to hook both batteries up.... can be a bit tricky. Wires or something, but you want to avoid a bunch of "sparks". OR you could use wires to connect a single 18650 if you have one.

Let's see what the others think.
 
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Curvychic

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I don't have a 18650. Isn't that TI chip suppose to make it where you only have to have the one batt, but still vape at 5v? I really think it's just the stupid switch even though it never misfires on the LR. I dunno, my brain is confused. LOL :D
It doesn't make much sense why the button would perform differently depending on what atty is screwed on.

Let's see what Gummy, or whomever, thinks about this (since I don't play with those power modules much). You are "robbing Peter to pay Paul" with this module using only one (small) battery.... it takes some extra amps and converts them to volts... i.e. more amps input, less output but more volts (boost). That's how you get 5 volts from a 3.7 volt battery. Now, maybe there's something going on here where it just can't get enough amps, so voltage suffers. It's enough volts to fire the LR atty since they are hotter at lower voltages, but won't fire the higher resistance atty. A high drain battery would not have that issue.

So, we test with BOTH batteries. We can try BOTH series and parallel. All we need to do is to hook both batteries up.... can be a bit tricky. Wires or something, but you want to avoid a bunch of "sparks". OR you could use wires to connect a single 18650 if you have one.

Let's see what the others think.
 

AttyPops

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I don't have a 18650. Isn't that TI chip suppose to make it where you only have to have the one batt, but still vape at 5v? I really think it's just the stupid switch even though it never misfires on the LR. I dunno, my brain is confused. LOL :D

If the switch is broken, why does the LR atty always work?
Use the other options mentioned then (2 14500's).
 

asdaq

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Bypassing the switch contacts with a paperclip or something is definitely worth a try to eliminate a faulty switch.

Checking it with both batts in parallel, fully charged, also sounds good. Fiddly, but if one batt is in place in the mod, and it is laying on a table, set the 2nd batt on top of the first and hold paperclips to make sure the contacts are tapped into the spring and contact, and since two hands are occupied with this, press the whole mod down on the table to fire the switch and see if the atty does anything.
 

bstedh

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A bad solder joint or corroded switch could cause this issue. With the LR atty it could be pulling enough current to "Jump the gap" but with a SR atty it would be intermittent due to the lower amperage.

similar to a spark plug. You need high amps to jump the gap and cause a spark.
 
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Gummy Bear

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A bad solder joint or corroded switch could cause this issue. With the LR atty it could be pulling enough current to "Jump the gap" but with a SR atty it would be intermittent due to the lower amperage.

similar to a spark plug. You need high amps to jump the gap and cause a spark.


That sounds about right. Intermittent problems are always a PITA.

So how do you find it? I have in the past just hit every solder joint that I could find just enough to re-flow the solder. It has worked but you never know where the problem was.
 

bstedh

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That sounds about right. Intermittent problems are always a PITA.

So how do you find it? I have in the past just hit every solder joint that I could find just enough to re-flow the solder. It has worked but you never know where the problem was.

That's how I made my beer money in high school. Everybody would bring me their dead stereo to fix and most of the time it was just bad solder joints due to heat build up. I would just hit every power component with the soldering iron and it would fix 90% of the bad radios.
 
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