Help, please. Getting discouraged

[mikefash]

Another thing is, what air flow ring do you have at the bottom. Maybe you have some blockage at the 510 and creating too much vacuum. If you want to stick to the protank then I would purchase the air flow ring. It's like a $5.00 part that actually improves the airflow in the protank 2. But to be honest I had the most troubling experience with the Kanger products. The Aspire BDC dual coil was so much better and was cheaper. But after 2 months I out grew these products.

I tell new vapers this as a progression. Enjoying flavor in vaping is a big thing. Not so much the vaper production. Start with a simple dripping carto. Nice cartos last a long time and has one of the best flavors. Learn to drip and just enjoy vaping. Move up to something more advanced. By pass these cheap clear tanks and move up to a Kayfun/Taifun/Fogger/ect. Look at how many posts their are about my Aspire coil keeps failing, my Protank keeps flooding or I get burnt flavor from my clearo. Keep it simple, carto (not carto tanks) will make vaping a pleasurable experience. My first vaping experience was a Kamry 100 kit. Came with a simple carto and it was so great. Then I got a Protank and all hell broke loose. Aspire tank, Carto tank, Joytech tank, and then a Kayfun. I've been vaping a while but I still can't master a Kayfun (I don't know why). Now I'm vaping only Genesis tanks and RDAs. But looking back I should of stayed with a carto and just moved up to RDAs.

 

[Fictitious Character]

Ficticous,

I think you may be onto something here with poor connection to the battery. My ProTank 3 Clone was just opened from the box this morning. I did think that the pin connection on the atty bottom seemed recessed, but didn't think I could adjust it down. Frankly, I'm looking at it disassembled right now. How do I adjust it down? Can you elaborate?

My X6 battery top pin seems "fixed"...but how do I tell if it has a spring ? I assume it would be fairly evident if it had a spring, so I assume it doesn't. I wil try bringing that pin up a bit.

THANKS SO MUCH for these two tips. I think I will give these a try. Wish I understood how to adjust the pin on the PT3 atty down, as you stated...because it appears recessed in too far to be making a good connection.

My bad I did not know the P3 was set on an ego base I was thinking it was like the Aero with the 510 threading where the contact is exposed and could be adjusted by gently pulling it out slightly.

With the battery this is the type right? http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-x6-variable-voltage-1300mah-ego-battery.html If so I do not believe it has a spring loaded pin, if it did you could lightly push on it and it would slide down and then slide back up. A spring loaded pin ensures better contact with most tanks. Since it is not spring loaded what happens is when it is charged or different tanks get put on the pin can get a little pushed down. As I said before if you turn off your battery and take a pair of tweezers or a small flat head you can pull the pin up ever so slightly to ensure you are getting good contact but you want to be careful as it is not meant to come up to far. You don't want to be aggressive with it and damage your battery.

 

[Mrs C]

I ran PT2's and minis for about 9 months.
Very rarely did I find a physical problem (defect) causing problems. It was not assembling them properly.

Things to check
Make sure your o rings on the tank are in place and you haven't tightened something down so tight you have mashed them.
Make sure the cup gasket on the chimney is seated properly. run your fingernail around the edge by the chimney.
Is the coil tight in the base? Check it every time you fill and first thing when you have a leak, they have a habit of working loose.

For your connection issue look at the center pin grommet on the coil. It should be just less than flush with the metal indented is good, bulging is BAD. Back the center pin out slightly with a fingernail. when you attach the tank to the battery you want it snug enough it doesn't move on it's own but you should be able to remove from the battery with minimal effort. Mashing this grommet from over tightening can also reduce your air flow meaning less vapor and a tight draw.

A lower ohm coil will heat hotter and faster thus giving more vapor and TH. Try a 1.8 or 2.0 coil you will be amazed at the difference.

Lastly your Draw. Think of it as you are pulling a thick milkshake through a straw. To hard and the straw collapses.

 

[Bored2Tears]

So, in theory... if I pulled the pin up on my X6 battery, and went a little too far...then when I screw down the PT2 or PT3, it will push it back down again but still make flush connection. Both tanks bottom out to the battery. If anyone else here has an X6 battery they know what I mean. The base on the tank eventually screws down till sitting flush on top of the battery. SO, I have no way of knowing how good a connection the pin on the atty is making with the battery post /pin.

Here's a video link to the X6 battery, with a decent description: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dc4SCN5Ey_A
He threads on both an ego clearomizer and the PT2.

 

[edyle]

Well, the X6 battery has both 510 and ego threading. I was using the MiniProtank 2 for a while on it with no issues. It's the larger Protank 2 and 3 giving me problems. Maybe the X6 doesn't mate well on the Protanks 510 threading. Unfortunately, I can't use the beauty ring on the X6 because of the way it's designed. I can use that on my other ego battery though...so I may just resort to that and see if that stops the flooding. If it does, I guess I can stick with that too.

Yeah; that's kinda what I was saying.

The protank comes with a 510 threaded base. That's where you get problems. With experience you recognise it. But for new vapers, that problem is very frustrating to figure out.

Meanwhile if you use the EVOD or the miniprotank, they use the eGo thread instead, so you tend to get less of the electrical contact problems compared to the protank.

 

[edyle]

Anyone know why Kanger went back to short stem design on the PT3 coils? If as stated in an earlier post "Short stem (old version) leaks a lot, impossible to make these not leak. Long stem (updated version) does not leak." Why'd they go back to the short stem design on a later version tank? Does it have to do with the dual coil design?

Frankly, the only reason I bought a PT3 was to compare it to the PT2. With the PT2, I seemed to be able to use it 75 to 80% of the time without flooding....but I thought maybe the PT3 would have better reliability on the flooding, not less reliability...which has been my experience.

The PT3 coil has a longer middle section to hold the 2 coils; the earlier coils are single coil.
oh, I am assuming by 'stem' you mean the top piece? I call that the 'spire'.

You can add an extra silicone cap on the spire and see if the coil head fits; if it fits easily them the problem is there is space between the top of the coil and the center tube, and that would cause leaking.

 

[TikPandora]

This is just my personal, unprofessional, extremely biased opinion.

For a nice, reliable, long-lasting battery...get an Innokin Itaste MVP V2. My mother treats her equipment like absolute crap, but her MVP has kept chugging along since she got it...what a trooper. They aren't that expensive, around 40-50 dollars depending on where you look, and I'm pretty sure you can even get a V1 still for cheaper if you don't mind the feature-drop.

As for tanks. Stay away from anything that doesn't have the closed bottom. The Aerotank line, Innokin Gladius, Aspire Nautilus. All of these are great, hassle-free, leak-free options. If you're really price conscious...you could even get a clone of one of the previously listed tanks. (Like...a Nautilus Mini clone for $8)

 

[FaceFisted]

The protanks are not a bad setup, I know coil building is not for everyone but I can tell you after I bought some wire and cotton and rebuilt my first one I refuse to go back to stock coils in those... for ease of use and transport I used and still use the itaste vv for a handy VV/VW device that allows down to 1.2 ohms resistance on coils (significant strain on battery) but that device does act as a passthrough if needed just don't get the battery too hot vaping and charging at the same time and I hear one should not charge it from a car. Only down side is the 800mah battery but see former statement.

 

[Bored2Tears]

OK. I pulled the center pins up on the batteries just a little bit. They must not have been pushed down because I could feel resistance when screwing on the tanks about 1/16" before it bottomed out where it normally does on top of the battery well. So I don't think that was the issue.

Maybe I had a day where I got fluid down the center tube in both tanks when filling and just didn't realize it. I had these tanks apart multiple times yesterday during work trying to resolve the flooding issues to no avail.

Cleaned everything out last night, dried out overnight....charged both batteries. Pulled up the center pins. Now both tanks and batteries seem to be performing fine. I am taking extremely light draws on the drip tips now too.

Who knows, maybe I had a combination of issues going on yesterday, but will see how it goes today. So far, 30 mins into using both tanks and no problems. Thanks again for the suggestions. Maybe one of the many tips is what resolved it....or maybe the problems will come back. I will report later today.

 

[Mrs C]

Pro Tanks can be fiddly, but once you know what to fiddle with they are easy to deal with.

 

[Vininim]

A lot of tank systems rely on a gravity/pressure vs liquid viscosity equilibrium to not flood and leak. Draw patterns can stress that equilibrium pretty easy.

I've switch ~3 months ago and someone described perfectly what happens before a leak: the "furiously sucking" draw technique that you might do sometimes due to withdraw. I fixed that by moving to airier system with airflow control. But I have managed to leak even an aerotank. If you muscle through the withdraw, you will start to be more zen regarding draw and be less likely to leak.

It seems that higher wattage devices helps too because they can handle the flooding before it becomes a leak, but then you might get wicking issues.

 

[edyle]

OK. I pulled the center pins up on the batteries just a little bit. They must not have been pushed down because I could feel resistance when screwing on the tanks about 1/16" before it bottomed out where it normally does on top of the battery well. So I don't think that was the issue.

Maybe I had a day where I got fluid down the center tube in both tanks when filling and just didn't realize it. I had these tanks apart multiple times yesterday during work trying to resolve the flooding issues to no avail.

Cleaned everything out last night, dried out overnight....charged both batteries. Pulled up the center pins. Now both tanks and batteries seem to be performing fine. I am taking extremely light draws on the drip tips now too.

Who knows, maybe I had a combination of issues going on yesterday, but will see how it goes today. So far, 30 mins into using both tanks and no problems. Thanks again for the suggestions. Maybe one of the many tips is what resolved it....or maybe the problems will come back. I will report later today.

Getting a combination of issues tends to happen when you are new.
For example you have an electrical problem (but you don't know that it's electrical you just know your vape isn't performing very well);
instinctively, you suck harder on the tip just as when you had a cigarette that was not working and you suck harder to get it going;
that causes the tank to flood;
you keep firing the coil more and more trying to get things going;
that causes the tank to get hot; the hot tank hots the air in the tank, which pushing down on the liquid causing more flooding.

 

[joesquid]

Haven't read through the entire thread but I'd recommend drilling out the air holes on all Mini protanks to 1/16. That helped with alot of flooding problems I had. Also allowed me to increase power giving a better hit.

 

[Warpigs]

Welcome to ECF!