Help! Sick Lizard

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lexgar

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Oct 30, 2009
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So, got my Chameleon in record time, 2 days to the left coast after losing my Protege at a large 2 day Blues Festival. Had been vaping on back-up 510 batteries for the last 4 days. No LR atty action and very short battery life.

The Chameleon rocks!

Sent an email re: no orings, no biggie, and there is a gap between the top of the battery sector and the adaptor ring. Sent email to Ikenvape and reply by Isaac that I saw this morning suggested that I try reversing the switch sector (no change in gap) and try screwing in the post tighter to the switch sector.

I now have a dead lizard. I did not over tighten the post, only snugged it a bit to see if it was loose and try to reduce gap between sectors. I am now back to the 510 and in serious angst.

Suggestions?
 

Switched

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Getting something that is not performing is always frustrating, especially when the frustration is exacerbated with the lack of nicotine.

Folks post threads and expect miracles to happen. Well we are here to help but we can only help if we know what you are doing right or wrong, which to this point you haven't mentioned either.

  • What adapter are you using?;
  • What battery/batteries are you using?;
  • Have you tried different adapters/different attys?
  • Are you experiencing the problem in all modes, or just one?
Tell us explicitly what you have done to date. The gap between the connector cone and top of the switch is normal.
 

lexgar

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Oct 30, 2009
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Greater LA, SoCal
Getting something that is not performing is always frustrating, especially when the frustration is exacerbated with the lack of nicotine.

Folks post threads and expect miracles to happen. Well we are here to help but we can only help if we know what you are doing right or wrong, which to this point you haven't mentioned either.

  • What adapter are you using?;
  • What battery/batteries are you using?;
  • Have you tried different adapters/different attys?
  • Are you experiencing the problem in all modes, or just one?
Tell us explicitly what you have done to date. The gap between the connector cone and top of the switch is normal.


  • Issue was with both 510 and 901 adaptors. I do not use the 801 currently.


  • I tried different attys and adaptors. Checked on other device (510 reg) for function.

  • Not sure what you mean by "Modes"

Seems to be working now, but it was a bit of a scare. I have been vaping since last October and had a Protege since November. Not terribly tech challenged, this is not my first rodeo.

I recognize a connection issue, just unsure where it is. I tried reversing switch section, fully seated atty, wiggled connections, cleaned all posts and connection points, cleaned threads,tried all atty and battery combos. I did find after it decided to work once again that the switch section only works on way which is odd to me. if contact is made, it seems that it should work in either direction unless the section has asymmetrical design for contact with the adapter section and battery section.

As I type, it failed again. Checked the atty (LR 510 from Drew) on other battery and it has died. First used it yesterday. Put on new LR atty from Drew and it got a few puffs before it died. Checked on other battery and it is DOA. Previous attys from Drew had not died on Protege like this.

Juices: High Voltage from Nhaler, and Tasty Vapor 10% VG. Drip tips.

Just started another new LR atty from TW. Working for now.

A bit frustrated at this point. Need to order more attys.

Appreciate the help offered.
 

Swipple

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This is jsut speculation so forgive my ignorance...but are the LR's from Drew 1.5 and if you are using a fresh 123 batt they can pump up to 4.2 and that might be causing them to die... The LR's Isaac sell are 2.0 and geared for a little bit higher for the sweet spot. Additionally, the 1.5 atty's (I know from experience) are a little more fickle and sensitive in general. I have found that most of my intermittent (sp?) issues with the Chameleon have to do with the battery end cap....just my $.02
 

Switched

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Clean all contact points on body with alcohol (treads) then apply a small coat of Noalox to threads. You are right the switch should function i either direction, I prefer mine with the top cap on the battery side (nothing can leak in that way).

The reason why I mention this my lizard quit after cleaning the threads and hasn't missed a beat since applying Noalox.

Different modes = different battery combos. It seems from what you have posted that you are only running at 3.7V so disregard "modes".

I was able to diagnose my problem because I had cleaned the extension sleeve only. It worked fine with the short sleeve but wouldn't with the extension. Process of elimination lead me to coupling the threads.
 

Switched

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Feb 18, 2010
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This is jsut speculation so forgive my ignorance...but are the LR's from Drew 1.5 and if you are using a fresh 123 batt they can pump up to 4.2 and that might be causing them to die... The LR's Isaac sell are 2.0 and geared for a little bit higher for the sweet spot. Additionally, the 1.5 atty's (I know from experience) are a little more fickle and sensitive in general. I have found that most of my intermittent (sp?) issues with the Chameleon have to do with the battery end cap....just my $.02

I am running Drew's 1.5 Ohms on mine with both the AW 14670 and AW RCR 123As without any problem.
 

lexgar

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My atty supply is getting low now. 2 down in a few minutes. I will order some of Iken's 2.0 and see how they function. Just want to be able to get my vape on without issues.

I do notice that the threads all around are looking tarnished even though this is a new rig. I will have to get some Naalox. Cleaning with alcohol and a qtip has not done too much. Probably from manufacturing.
 

Switched

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My atty supply is getting low now. 2 down in a few minutes. I will order some of Iken's 2.0 and see how they function. Just want to be able to get my vape on without issues.

I do notice that the threads all around are looking tarnished even though this is a new rig. I will have to get some Naalox. Cleaning with alcohol and a qtip has not done too much. Probably from manufacturing.
Home Depot carries it. If not you can get some GB Ox-Gard = same thing, or any other electrical coupler.

Do you have any regular attys to try? I hate troubleshooting with sub par components, e.g finicky attys which LRs are.
 

lexgar

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I have a few older, tired 510 attys as emergency backup, but really like the vapor from the LR. I just ordered some of Iken's 2.0 attys as well as some 510 and 808 cartomisers. Ordered the extension tube as well with a 14670 and a non-protected 17670 for longer run time at 3.7v . It seems the non-protected 17670 should fit if a bit snug although Isaac said the protected AW 17670 may not fit. I will watch the PO box and report back.

Seems to be working now. Fingers crossed. I do want to get a few extra switches in stock just in case. Off to the PO to see if my t tips are in.
 

WitchWay

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Dec 30, 2009
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Hi lex,

I promise you will not be sorry you purchased the Chameleon!! I had the same problems you are having and good news is I have the fix and it should fix both problems! This is what Isaac told me to do right after I got mine.

I am guessing when you talk about the gap, you are talking about when you put the adapter in the top cap then screw it on there is a gap because it does not screw down all the way onto the button section. If I'm wrong then this isn't going to help, but if I'm right this is going to fix both problems. Ok the pin in the center of the adapter is sitting too low. This causes the cap not to screw down all the way and also causes the top of the pin not to fully connect with the atty thus causing your attys to die quickly. I lost 4 attys in 4 days at the beginning. Believe it or not that pin DOES move, albeit not easily, but that is a good thing because you don't want it to move much. So Isaac said to place the adapter bottom side down on a hard surface, the place something, I used a small piece of 2X4, on top of the adapter and press down. This will push the pin upward in the adapter. You ONLY want to push it up a tiny bit. Once you get it the right height your cap will screw all the way on and the atty will make the right contact and not die. So if you push it up then put the adapter back in and screw the cap on and put the atty on and the adapter spins then you got it too high. You want the cap to go on all the way and then the adapter to be snug and not spin when you put the atty on. This is not easy to do, but once you get it right you will not have either problem anymore. I will stress here that the pin is not easy to move, at least mine aren't. But with work I got all three of mine perfect.

I haven't tried 1.5 LR attys, but I do have all 3 of Isaac's 2.0 LR attys and they are the best things. The 510 has the strongest throat hit in my opinion so while I like it, it's the one I like the least, but sounds like you will like it the best. The 801 gives the best vapor and flavor with the mildest throat hit of the 3 so it's my favorite. I do like the 901 alot, but I'm just not a fan of the hole in the side of 901 attys. I had the 901 first and have been using it for 16 days on one of Isaac's Lazers and it's still going strong. I have 801 on the Chameleon and it has replaced my much beloved 302 attys for the moment.

Hope this helps!!! Any questions, I'll check back later.

Happy Vaping!
 

lexgar

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Oct 30, 2009
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Greater LA, SoCal
Thanks WitchWay for the response, it may be helpful. I got an email from Isaac to try and screw in the post a bit because it may be loose and out too far. That did not work and in fact made the issue worse since the copper disc inside had moved and broke contact. I had to unscrew the post and reseat it.

Still gaped. I understand what you are referring to having watched the switch video. It should work, but my button only works with the top down! It should work either way, but I can only fire with top side down and that does not allow me to do what you suggest. I cannot for the life of me figure out the button only firing one way. It seems to make good contact both ways but never makes contact unless upside down.
:unsure:
 

WitchWay

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Sorry lex, I'm lost when it comes to the switch section. I only know about the adapters and the top section. Do you have a multi-meter? Can you test the continuity while pressing the button? Do it with the switch section in both directions and see if it is the same. If so then it is not the switch section. Hubby is better at this than I am. I'm going to get him to come on and read the thread and see if he has any suggestions. His user name is AlteredLight.

Hang in there!
 

WitchWay

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I do not have a continuity tester. I understand that the top is the opening side. That is the side I have to have toward the battery for this thing to fire.

A multi-meter would be so helpful. I run my switch section the same direction as you are running yours. Not because that is the only way it works, but it's how hubby told it was best and I ALWAYS listen to hubby :)

I hope it is going better for your today and you get things worked out.


Happy Vaping!
 

VaporMadness

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Jan 26, 2010
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I do not have a continuity tester. I understand that the top is the opening side. That is the side I have to have toward the battery for this thing to fire.

Bummer that your Chameleon is giving you some trouble :(

From what your describing, sounds like the circuit is completely broken somewhere in the vicinity of the switch section. I wouldn't rule out the threads needing some conductive grease like noalox, but based on what you've said, I would suspect a different source of the problem.

You said that screwing the contact points jutting from the switch section in more (so shortening how much they jutt out), made the problem worse. That leads me to believe that one of the contact points isn't making contact with either the positive terminal of the battery or with the center post of the atomizer adapter.

Unless your atomizer adapter spins loosely with the top cap fully tightened, I would guess that the problem is on the battery side such that the contact point does not meet the positive terminal. You may be able to determine if that's what's going on by wedging a thin layer of folded aluminum foil between the negative terminal and the bottom end cap contact point. So the positive terminal would sit a little higher in the tube.

If you get consistent contact after that... then at least you'd know where the fault lies... and maybe you could hunt down a slim magnetic spacer to serve the purpose of the alum foil... or get a slightly longer battery.
 
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