Help! Sick Lizard

[AlteredLight]

The way the switch works is that the pins screw into the copper discs (moon pieces) and squeeze them tight against the nylon pieces with the switch prongs in between thus making the switch contact from one side to the other. When/if you take the sector apart, note the prong impressions in the nylon. Screwing the pins in will only serve to increase the connectivity of the circuit unless somehow the switch is incorrectly assembled or the switch prongs are broken. I both these cases and seeing that the unit is a new purchase, I would recommend getting warranty service. Having a multimeter would remove so much of the guess work and you could test the switch sector isolated from the other parts.


Also, from personal experience, Witch kept killing addies within a short amount of usage and had a 1 milimeter or so gap between the switch sector and the adapter sector. We found that the adapter pins were just slightly low. I found some small hard plastic pieces and padded my vice grips and sqeezed the adapters very carefully until the gap was reduced and the center pin contacted the addy more solidly. A note on this is that over squeezing will cause the pin to get to far away from the switch sector and posibly create a continuity problem there ... I happen to have some tiny washers that fill this gap. A weak contact in many cases is worse than a broken contact in that it allows uncontrolled spikes in power flow.

Anyway, Isaac has always been good help to us and does back his stuff, so worst case, send it back to him and give him the chance to make it right for you.

 

[AlteredLight]

A multi-meter would be so helpful. I run my switch section the same direction as you are running yours. Not because that is the only way it works, but it's how hubby told it was best and I ALWAYS listen to hubby

I hope it is going better for your today and you get things worked out.


Happy vaping!

Fainting at the ALWAYS part

Yeah, I recommend putting the seemless side toward the addy in case of flooding mostly. It also allows for tolerance when I don't quite get the cover plate on the same and flush every time (um I've had it open several times). The button prep and installation thread is very handy .

Also I hope your vaping trouble wisp away soon

 

[Iken]

Hey Lexgar,
I believe Altered light is dead on with "unless somehow the switch is incorrectly assembled "
The switch mechanism absolutely should be able to be flipped and activated without a problem. I believe this may be our source of the problem. I would be more than happy to replace it for you, or if you want a chance to get to know your Chameleon more internally I can send you the switch and O rings. Also, we'll fine tune your adapters to work consistently and if we are unable to adjust. We'll replace them as well.

 

[lexgar]

Thanks Isaac. It is the inconsistency that is making me crazy. I took it to work yesterday and it worked flawlessly all afternoon and evening. I am a wedding photographer and the guests were impressed with the plumes of vapor I was exhaling.
The battery worked quite a while since I did not have the thing glued to my lips like I can do at home.
This morning, it has gotten difficult again. Vaped for a short time and then nothing. I have changed batteries, checked the atty on a reg 510 battery, screwed and unscrewed each part multiple times, screwed and unscrewed the posts, etc. I occasionally get a short puff and then nothing again. Swapped adapters, nothing. It must be the switch.
I did not find Noalox, but my local hardware store had GB Oxgard which I used to lube all the threaded connections. I have done all I can do. I think I can manage to change out the switch after looking at the video. If you can send one I would be grateful. I am going to kill my remaining reg 510 batts with the LR attys that I have.
Got the extension tube, 2.0 attys, and a selection of cartomisers on the way but if I get no power then it is all moot.
Time to go to radio shack and get a multimeter I guess.

 

[lexgar]

I remember seeing the switch might be available at Radio Shack, cannot remember the thread. Anyone send a link to the proper item? can't cost much and I do not want to take this apart and leave the parts lying around. to take the switch with me.

 

[WitchWay]

I remember seeing the switch might be available at Radio Shack, cannot remember the thread. Anyone send a link to the proper item? can't cost much and I do not want to take this apart and leave the parts lying around. to take the switch with me.

The one at Radio Shack if I remember correctly the prongs were too short. This is the link for the switch that Isaac recommends
Tact Switch Vertical Shaft length: 3.5mm | BTS-1102B (BTS1102B) | Distributed By MCM

The problem with ordering from there is the switch is cheap, I think $.20 if you only buy 1, however the shipping is $8.99. If Isaac doesn't have one he can send you, shoot me a PM because I bought 10 of them and I can send you 1. Also check with Isaac to see if changing the switch yourself will void the warranty or not.

Check this thread for more information
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ikenvape/84837-chameleon-button-prep-installation.html

We all want to see you have a working Chameleon, there's nothing more frustrating then something that works when it wants to. Hang in there!!

 

[aspen]

If you do happen to find a tact switch that is a little to long of a button shaft you can just grind it down to the desired height, Doesn't hurt a thing. I have some here that have a long shaft and could mail it to you but that would take a couple of days. If after a search you have no success pm me and I will send it out to you. Good luck, oh if ya do find em I would get a couple at .20 cents each you really can't wrong.

 

[lexgar]

Thanks to all for the offers of switch replacements. Isaac said he could send a switch so I will have him do so. I will however order 10 of the replacements for myself so I can have them in stock.
I am going to try and take the switch segment apart and reassemble it. Sometimes this can do the trick.
Aarghh! Just want to get to the vaping again.

P.S. Just could not get the top cap off of the switch section. I tried a number of tools and it would not come out for me. May have to send it back and get something else to get me through the interim. Bummed.

 

[aspen]

I had the same issue first time around. Took me about 20 minutes to work the cap off by going around about 1/8 inch and pry them move 1/8 inch and pry keep doing and it will come off, think of it as rocking it back and forth walking it out. Its tough the first time but just keep at it and it will come off. Good luck, if all else fails Isaac will stand behind it so just pm him in that case.

 

[WitchWay]

sorry I can't be more help lex. If you send it back, Isaac will make it perfect. Keep us posted.

 

[lexgar]

Well, after much fiddling, I managed to get the cap off and switch out. The prongs were the problem, not making contact.
After much more fiddling, I finally got it back together but managed to break the prongs in the process.
Worse off than before.

If it weren't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all...

 

[Iken]

Thanks Isaac. It is the inconsistency that is making me crazy. I took it to work yesterday and it worked flawlessly all afternoon and evening. I am a wedding photographer and the guests were impressed with the plumes of vapor I was exhaling.
The battery worked quite a while since I did not have the thing glued to my lips like I can do at home.
This morning, it has gotten difficult again. Vaped for a short time and then nothing. I have changed batteries, checked the atty on a reg 510 battery, screwed and unscrewed each part multiple times, screwed and unscrewed the posts, etc. I occasionally get a short puff and then nothing again. Swapped adapters, nothing. It must be the switch.
I did not find Noalox, but my local hardware store had GB Oxgard which I used to lube all the threaded connections. I have done all I can do. I think I can manage to change out the switch after looking at the video. If you can send one I would be grateful. I am going to kill my remaining reg 510 batts with the LR attys that I have.
Got the extension tube, 2.0 attys, and a selection of cartomisers on the way but if I get no power then it is all moot.
Time to go to radio shack and get a multimeter I guess.

Hey Lex,
I see ya, I'll throw in a few switches.
About the lid on your sector. Did you screw it back onto the body, then applied a flat object like a screwdriver just under the sector's lid? Sometimes, the screwdriver can snag one of the components. Also, when you hookup the sector to the body, it gives you leverage to pry off the lid. Open it like a paint can, turn, pry, turn...
You'll be just fine with the GB Oxgard. We'll get ya up and rollin in no time.

If you do happen to find a tact switch that is a little to long of a button shaft you can just grind it down to the desired height, Doesn't hurt a thing. I have some here that have a long shaft and could mail it to you but that would take a couple of days. If after a search you have no success pm me and I will send it out to you. Good luck, oh if ya do find em I would get a couple at .20 cents each you really can't wrong.

It's funny that you say that. Did you know, that's how the manufacture does the buttons on these? Pick them up over sized to shave them down. Personally, I don't care for the stock button. They designed it to protrude a bit too much. The replacements we use and personally use are the 3.5mm, because it just sets flush with the safety button groove on the sector.

 

[lexgar]

Hey Lex,
I see ya, I'll throw in a few switches.
About the lid on your sector. Did you screw it back onto the body, then applied a flat object like a screwdriver just under the sector's lid? Sometimes, the screwdriver can snag one of the components. Also, when you hookup the sector to the body, it gives you leverage to pry off the lid. Open it like a paint can, turn, pry, turn...
You'll be just fine with the GB Oxgard. We'll get ya up and rollin in no time.

Thanks Isaac
I did the pry and turn with the sector on the body. I was trying to be gentle and not mark up the soft aluminum ring too much. Looked at the video and saw the marks on your demo model. Guess it cannot be helped. Must be a special tool to get it out easier, but I do not have that tool.

I think my mistake was bending the prongs back out allow easier insertion of the discs. When I folded them in again they broke.

Guess I will have to wait to try the 2.0 attys that might get here today. And the 14670 17670 batteries on the way.Not to mention the IMR UltraFire ICR 123As That WitchWay has had luck with.

 

[Switched]

Hey Lex,
I see ya, I'll throw in a few switches.
About the lid on your sector. Did you screw it back onto the body, then applied a flat object like a screwdriver just under the sector's lid? Sometimes, the screwdriver can snag one of the components. Also, when you hookup the sector to the body, it gives you leverage to pry off the lid. Open it like a paint can, turn, pry, turn...
You'll be just fine with the GB Oxgard. We'll get ya up and rollin in no time.

Thanks Isaac
I did the pry and turn with the sector on the body. I was trying to be gentle and not mark up the soft aluminum ring too much. Looked at the video and saw the marks on your demo model. Guess it cannot be helped. Must be a special tool to get it out easier, but I do not have that tool.

I think my mistake was bending the prongs back out allow easier insertion of the discs. When I folded them in again they broke.

Guess I will have to wait to try the 2.0 attys that might get here today. And the 14670 17670 batteries on the way.Not to mention the IMR UltraFire ICR 123As That WitchWay has had luck with.

WWay's batts are not IMR they are Li-Ions not LiMn (different chemistry) and hence should not be confused with IMRs

Ultrafire 3.6V 880mah Protected Li-Ion Rechargeable Battery RCR123A CR123A 16340 CR16340

which have a max continuous discharge rate of 1.5C

AW IMR16340 550 mAh IMR CR123 size LiMN Rechargeable Lithium Battery

which have a max continuous discharge rate of 8c

Two different batteries for 2 different jobs. They are fine with a 2 Ohm atty which is what WWay is using. If you are using a 1.5 Ohm (from Drew), then the Ultrafires are not designed to take the current draw.

This post is only intended to clarify a misconception, nothing else. Of course you are free to use anything you want in your device.

 

[Wench]

It's funny that you say that. Did you know, that's how the manufacture does the buttons on these? Pick them up over sized to shave them down. Personally, I don't care for the stock button. They designed it to protrude a bit too much. The replacements we use and personally use are the 3.5mm, because it just sets flush with the safety button groove on the sector.

This is what I did.. I was given some by a friend that has a little electronic's shop that were a bit too long.
Dremel tool ftw lmao This way I can cut them to exactly the length I want.
I have about 10 spare switches now for oh crap moments.
I haven't had to change mine out yet as it's still kicking along with all the carto's I got from Iken.
I actually haven't had to buy anything lately because all the gear I got from Iken just keep's going like energizer bunnies

 

[WitchWay]

WWay's batts are not IMR they are Li-Ions not LiMn (different chemistry) and hence should not be confused with IMRs

Ultrafire 3.6V 880mah Protected Li-Ion Rechargeable Battery RCR123A CR123A 16340 CR16340

which have a max continuous discharge rate of 1.5C

AW IMR16340 550 mAh IMR CR123 size LiMN Rechargeable Lithium Battery

which have a max continuous discharge rate of 8c

Two different batteries for 2 different jobs. They are fine with a 2 Ohm atty which is what WWay is using. If you are using a 1.5 Ohm (from Drew), then the Ultrafires are not designed to take the current draw.

This post is only intended to clarify a misconception, nothing else. Of course you are free to use anything you want in your device.

Yes Switched you are correct. Thank you for clarifying that I am using 2.0 or higher attys, nothing lower and the UltraFires I have are NOT LiMN batteries, but they are also not the ones you have the link to. The ones I have are grey like that, but are marked differently. They say ICR 123A 880mAh 3.7V
Focalprice.com offers UltraFire ICR 123A 3.7V 880mAh Protected Battery (2-Pack)

I'm not sure if there is any difference or not, but when I bought more I made sure to get the ones in the link I have since they said the same thing. I have yet to find a stated C rating on these particular batteries, but I haven't looked too hard either.

lex I'm sorry to hear you are still having problems

 

[VaporMadness]

This is what I did.. I was given some by a friend that has a little electronic's shop that were a bit too long.
Dremel tool ftw lmao This way I can cut them to exactly the length I want.
I have about 10 spare switches now for oh crap moments.
I haven't had to change mine out yet as it's still kicking along with all the carto's I got from Iken.
I actually haven't had to buy anything lately because all the gear I got from Iken just keep's going like energizer bunnies

The grinding down trick is good to know about, I had figured they were hollow inside and grinding them down would leave an open tube to press on instead of a flat button.

I'd like to pick up some spares to have on had too, but haven't found any in the length I'm looking for (about 4mm). So long as grinding them down a bit is an option... well there are lots more options.

 

[Wench]

The grinding down trick is good to know about, I had figured they were hollow inside and grinding them down would leave an open tube to press on instead of a flat button.

I'd like to pick up some spares to have on had too, but haven't found any in the length I'm looking for (about 4mm). So long as grinding them down a bit is an option... well there are lots more options.

I'm not sure if they are all that way but mine was solid so no hole when it was cut. I don't see any brand name on them. I would assume all these little switches are the made the same but ya never know. Mine started out as a 9mm tall switch.
I just popped out the switch in the chameleon to measure by and mark where to cut.

 

[AppleJack]

Reading this thread. Forgot about the trick of putting a piece of foil in the end cap. Finally, my Laser now works good. Thanks to all you good people.

 

[VaporMadness]

Reading this thread. Forgot about the trick of putting a piece of foil in the end cap. Finally, my Laser now works good. Thanks to all you good people.

Not sure how big of a gap you have to fill... but here's something that may make for a better long term solution for that sort of problem...

Magnetic Spacer - 1.6mm