RDA Help: Veritas RDA Authentic???

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Lyons238

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Dec 17, 2015
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I just bought an "Authentic" Veritas rda second hand. I have some key facts that may help someone identify if this is authentic or not.

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Legitimacy Facts

1. It came in the usual white jeweler box with black padding as well as a green inspection sticker initialed by someone. Will post pic later

2. The o - rings are spaced and top cap fits very snug

3. The atty base has a hex shaped with rounded edges machined bed that allows 40% the hex insulator nut to sit inside the atty held in place. Not sure if this is right but it seems some clones don't have this or the ones that do are either deeper or shallower.

4. Machining marks around e liquid leak resistant channels seem consistent with authentic pictures Iv seen

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Potential Negative/Cloned Attributes

1. Air hole in base of atty is off centered. Also slight lifting from the drill coming out of the air hole. Not sure if even legit Veritas can have this.

2. Finish of top cap is a grooved texture similar to running your fingernail across and old collectors sports card. Iv read different people saying authentic is suppose to be polishes some say it's brushed. Also it seems mine is the older model without the iHybrid symbol.

3. Machining/chamfering of air holes is a bit sloppy with some spiral drill marks on the inside of the air hole and scrape marks on the inside of the top cap around air hole.

4. Top cap is rather thin. Bent slightly from dropping

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Will post more pictures of naked atty later.

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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1450377595.056193.jpg
 

kformeck

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Now I'm not 100% positive but I'm pretty confident that is an authentic. I have the newer model with the iHybrid logo on it but everything else looks identical. I've noticed clones tend to have a deeper engraved veritas logo and yours looks identical to my authentic. I will also say that peek hex nut looks like a replacement (which is fine, I had to replace mine too). Also, my air hole looks just like yours; that positive post does not exactly run down the center of mine either.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
 

Tagi

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Of mine,

Authentic - the Veritas engraving was the easiest way to tell. Authentic was deep with clean lines.

EHpro - Deep with sloppy lines

Tobeco - shallow with clean lines - also comes with a white plastic

I am adding a pic, if the box matches I would say its authentic.

When I get home tonight I will take some example pics of the engraving differences

de52cee3e68175c0d7aa108c56c44728.jpg
 

Lyons238

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Dec 17, 2015
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Of mine,

Authentic - the Veritas engraving was the easiest way to tell. Authentic was deep with clean lines.

EHpro - Deep with sloppy lines

Tobeco - shallow with clean lines - also comes with a white plastic

I am adding a pic, if the box matches I would say its authentic.

When I get home tonight I will take some example pics of the engraving differences

de52cee3e68175c0d7aa108c56c44728.jpg

My box looks like that. Can you show a pic of the inspection sticker that comes?

Also my engravings are clean but I have no reference to tell if mine are deep or shallow. It seems deep for the thickness of the top cap itself and would never scratch off. But not sure.
 

Lyons238

Full Member
Dec 17, 2015
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Now I'm not 100% positive but I'm pretty confident that is an authentic. I have the newer model with the iHybrid logo on it but everything else looks identical. I've noticed clones tend to have a deeper engraved veritas logo and yours looks identical to my authentic. I will also say that peek hex nut looks like a replacement (which is fine, I had to replace mine too). Also, my air hole looks just like yours; that positive post does not exactly run down the center of mine either.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info. The peek has any been replaced according to these original owner but it is old and I accidentally dry fired with a hot leg and dis formed it a bit.

Any other help is appreciated
 

Tagi

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This was all that was in the box mine came in. I have a very early one
d8b849102a353c6e09145a2806a15b9a.jpg


Authentic - pronounced engraving with clean lines also the air hole on top cap is beveled the clones are not
73a701c83db2dc7c73de70b1b8f86462.jpg


Ehpro- pronounce engraving with tool chatter or something.you can see it on the back edge of the V its in other spots too. Comes with Peak insolator.
8fe4d8e30bc65583833640ddbd7220cf.jpg


Tobeco- shallow engraving. Almost disappears from a far looks deeper in the pics then it actually is. It is more apparent in the middle letters. Also comes with a non peak top insolator. rda functions great once this is replaced.
e262629336b6251171b787123941defe.jpg
 
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WharfRat1976

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What did you pay for it if I may ask. It looks like a clone. The engraving looks thin and the two elevations at the top are not very deep. I maybe wrong. The imperfections you mentioned do not exist on mine. The milling is pretty perfect. All holes are dead nuts plumb. Neg screws and threads are rock solid.

Also, when you do your build, use the rear lead for you posi connec and the front lead for your neg connec. Then you won't have to bring that lead up over the top like that. Maybe that's how you prefer building it though so just a suggestion.

Here is a pic of my authentic bought right when they came out. What matters most is if you are getting a great vape with tons of flavor.
0cf1e4ad8a3377025b02b5f92d4a5645.jpg
 

Lyons238

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Dec 17, 2015
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Tobeco- shallow engraving. Almost disappears from a far looks deeper in the pics then it actually is. It is more apparent in the middle letters. Also comes with a non peak top insolator. RDA functions great once this is replaced.
e262629336b6251171b787123941defe.jpg


Is the tobecco a polishes top cap or is it brushed or grooved. You can feel the grooves with your fingernail on mine. That would be the deciding factor I think.

Thank you for your help!


What did you pay for it if I may ask. It looks like a clone. The engraving looks thin and the two elevations at the top are not very deep. I maybe wrong. The imperfections you mentioned do not exist on mine. The milling is pretty perfect. All holes are dead nuts plumb. Neg screws and threads are rock solid.

Also, when you do your build, use the rear lead for you posi connec and the front lead for your neg connec. Then you won't have to bring that lead up over the top like that. Maybe that's how you prefer building it though so just a suggestion.

Here is a pic of my authentic bought right when they came out. What matters most is if you are getting a great vape with tons of flavor.
0cf1e4ad8a3377025b02b5f92d4a5645.jpg


My air hole is chamfered but the chamfering inside the hole is not perfect their are some marks. The fitting of the hole and alignment is 100% on point I'm saying if you look inside the air hole can you see some machining marks?

Also my threads are rock solid and the milling is perfect except on the inside of the air hole. But I saw other authentics with this.

As far as the engraving goes it's hard to tell mine is definitely clean. In some pics it looks deeper some not. And the top lines look similar to your authentic.

I paid $100 for it so not cheap and it came with this box...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1450445849.759733.jpg
 
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Lyons238

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Dec 17, 2015
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I will check the finish on the build deck when I get back home.
How does the top cap fit on the deck? My authentic has a very snug fit. To the point I only use the top o ring and its still got a good snap into place.

How's the finish on the top cap? Is it polished or brushed with grooves you can feel with your fingernail?

Top cap fits very very snug. More snug than any RDA I own. But once it's juiced up it's usable. Without juice it's very tight.
 

Lyons238

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Dec 17, 2015
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All three top caps are brushed. I am not sure about the finger nail thing. It sounds and looks like an authentic.

The tobeco looks more smooth. Can you feel your authentic later versus the clones and tell me if you can feel/hear a zipping feeling and maybe a slight noise similar to an old baseball card.

I believe the authentic have this type of finish which mine does and the clones are more of a polished or a smooth brushed finish.

But thanks I'm beginning to think mine is in fact an authentic. The original owner seems trusty as well I'm friends with her on Facebook and have her number and have been talking with her and she seems cool so I doubt she would try and punk me.
 

WharfRat1976

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Is the tobecco a polishes top cap or is it brushed or grooved. You can feel the grooves with your fingernail on mine. That would be the deciding factor I think.

Thank you for your help!





My air hole is chamfered but the chamfering inside the hole is not perfect their are some marks. The fitting of the hole and alignment is 100% on point I'm saying if you look inside the air hole can you see some machining marks?

Also my threads are rock solid and the milling is perfect except on the inside of the air hole. But I saw other authentics with this.

As far as the engraving goes it's hard to tell mine is definitely clean. In some pics it looks deeper some not. And the top lines look similar to your authentic.

I paid $100 for it so not cheap and it came with this box...

View attachment 515757

It sounds legit. My airhole on the top cap is chamfered. I looked at it under a 20x magnifier light. I do see refraction from the bit that drilled it. It is a smooth cut but under the magnifier the refractions show. Here's a pic of my box[emoji3]. Same as yours.
f3a9fa392bb7991486972dee78e5ed0e.jpg

The air hole on the atty itself shows heavy machining:
db8d1d4ae76cdeb905142eac9fd42024.jpg

Try this parallel build on yours if you want. A vertical. I have out just about every build on this thing and this is the most flavorful for me. Disregard the janked up insulator. I had to raise it up out of its seat to accommodate the posi leads. Just make sure your posi leads do not touch any metal on the atty other than the post.
4bc2c001e092dce965d542277e9bd58f.jpg
 
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Lyons238

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Dec 17, 2015
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It sounds legit. My airhole on the top cap is chamfered. I looked at it under a 20x magnifier light. I do see refraction from the bit that drilled it. It is a smooth cut but under the magnifier the refractions show. Here's a pic of my box[emoji3]. Same as yours.
f3a9fa392bb7991486972dee78e5ed0e.jpg

The air hole on the atty itself shows heavy machining:
db8d1d4ae76cdeb905142eac9fd42024.jpg

That's exactly what I'm talking about. Any comment on the finishing for the top cap? Do you see those grooves at the bottom of the base of the atty. that's how my top cap is finished. I'm not sure if the clones have that same machining I thought they were more of a brushes finish rather than a finely grooved finish

Also is there any rules of thumb for the engraving? I'll try and post a picture in some different lighting later and see if it can be confirmed but it seems everything is adding up.

I really appreciate all of you going out of your way to help me identify mine!
 
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Tagi

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The very bottom lip that sticks out of the base piece has those grooves. Definitely can feel them with the nail test, zzzzz feeling. You can see them in WharfRat1976's pics. The brushed finish on the top cap on all three (Authentic, EHpro, Tobeco) are about as close as you can get. All three have that zzz feeling with the nail scrape. The machining marks in the air hole on the base of mine are more like marks and not on like Wharf's
 

Lyons238

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Dec 17, 2015
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The very bottom lip that sticks out of the base piece has those grooves. Definitely can feel them with the nail test, zzzzz feeling. You can see them in WharfRat1976's pics. The brushed finish on the top cap on all three (Authentic, EHpro, Tobeco) are about as close as you can get. All three have that zzz feeling with the nail scrape. The machining marks in the air hole on the base of mine are more like marks and not on like Wharf's

Thanks my friend. Can you comment on any distinctive marks or attributes you notice that your authentic has versus the clones and vice versa? Such as machining marks, chamfering, etc.
 
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