Hi and welcome. Excessive ramp time is generally a function of coil mass. That is to say, the more wire in the coil, the longer it takes to heat the outer perimeter to vape temperature at any given power level. I am assuming you are using the .2Ω coils, given you say an 80 watt mod won't fire it quickly. One thing that might help is to try some different batteries. You don't say what batteries you bought, but if they're really 3000mAh, it is unlikely they exceed 20A CDR. Moving to a 30A CDR cell-- the LG HB6 leaps to mind-- will help prevent voltage sag in the cell at the maximum wattage your mod will support. Even a 25A cell would improve things; I use the LG HD2Cs in my mech mods just to provide a thicker safety margin.
What happens in a small mod like that-- all regulated mods, actually-- is the control board "asks" the battery for some power, and the battery provides it at whatever voltage its charge state will allow. However, the mod board is limited in its ability to use this power; if the battery voltage drops below a certain point, the board can not provide full wattage to the coil. It can only do what the cell voltage will permit. With a long life, low current cell like your 3000mAh ones, when the board starts to draw current from the cell, the voltage will "sag"-- meaning drop below the actual charge state native voltage-- because the battery can not provide the power quickly enough due to its internal chemistry. You wind up with an unstable state in the battery where the storage media is more discharged at the ends of the battery by the contacts, while the middle of the battery has a higher charge because the internals can't push the electrons to the contacts fast enough. This is (usually) not dangerous, and it will heal itself in a well functioning cell, if it is allowed to "rest" between power pulses: the charge will even out over time and the whole battery will attain the same charge state... until the next time you push the button. Higher CDR cells do a better job of free-flowing the electrons to the poles, but the trade-off is lower mAh, meaning it will store less power in the same volume. This effect worsens as the cell discharges over the useful life cycle.
In addition to this, many mod makers are guilty of "overestimating" the power their boards will attain. An "80 watt" board might get there if it was fired with a 500W, 5VDC power supply, but getting the same output from a battery is more problematic due to the voltage sag I mentioned. In general, with 20A batteries, you should figure about 60W per cell. That's about all it will do, and about all you should set the mod for. You run some risk-- usually small with a regulated mod-- of over stressing your battery with a greater setting. If you really want to vape at 80 watts in a one-battery mod, go with the HB6s. It still probably won't get all the way there, but it will get closer. Better still is buy a two-cell mod. They are usually wired with the batteries in series so the full charge voltage is 8.4V rather than the 4.2V of a single cell. The voltage still sags, but even sagged it generally remains above the board minimum to produce better wattage. I should also mention a two-battery mod will safely fire at 80 watts using a pair of 20A batteries.
I agree with
@suprtrkr about the coil mass increasing ramp up time and trying 30 amp batteries.
Try some higher ohm coils to decrease your ramp up time. Higher ohm coils generally use thinner wire, so the overall wire mass will be lower and decrease the ramp up time. Lower ohm coils draw more energy from the battery/microchip; the lower the ohms the higher the amp draw.
1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.15 ohms = 28 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway
Back to the batteries discussion, a 3000mah battery is going to have just a 15-20 amp/current potential. The 30 amp batteries only have 1500 mah, so they are only going to last half the time of a 3000 mah battery. You always have to decide which is most important to you? Amps or mAh? -- you can't have both in the same battery.
Samsung 18650 30Q, 3000 mah 15 amp CDR
Sony 18659VTC6 3000mAh 15 amp CDR
AW 18650 3000 mah 20 amp CDR
LG 18650HG2 3000mah 20 amp CDR
LG18650HB6 1500mah 30 amp CDR
LG18650HB2 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
LG18650HB4 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC3 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
When discussing power output with a regulated mod, coil resistance is irrelevant. Everthing is based on the wattage setting you use.
WATTAGE PER SINGLE BATTERY:
20W-45W:
Samsung 18650 30Q, 3000 mah 15 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC6 3000mAh 15 amp CDR
20W-60W:
LG 18650HG2 3000mah 20 amp CDR
LG 18650HE2 2500 mah 20 amp CDR
Samsung 18650-25R, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC5, 2600 mah 20 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC4, 2100 mah 23 amp CDR
AW 18650 3000 mah 20 amp CDR
30W - 75W:
LG 18650 HD4 2100 mah 25 amp CDR
LG 18650 HD2 2000 mah 25 amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC5A, 2500 mah 25 amp CDR
60W - 90W:
LG18650HB6 1500mah 30 amp CDR
LG18650HB2 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
LG18650HB4 1500mAh 30 amp CDR
Finally, I can not help you with a tank selection.
I can't help with tank selection either. I only vape around 30 watts.
@Josh Stuart you are way out of my league.
Sigelei and Vaporesso both make rugged, inexpensive mods that hit like monsters. Try checking out the Fuchai 213, Kaos, and the Revenger.
I have the Segelei Fuschai 213 Plus. It is indeed a rugged 2 battery mod but no way it is a 200 watt mod. Think 150 watts at most.