Hey guys! I'm new around here so this is the only place I can post. Anyhow, I just bought my first mod, the hcigar Hammer Clone and I was wondering if anyone who bought this mod before had a problem with the trigger, button, whatever you want to call it. I've heard its notorious for its top cap for cutting voltage due to bad contact but I've yet to see anyone post or ask about the trigger button. The problem with my trigger button is when I assemble it, if I have the button facing anywhere but down, the button fires itself. Is this a normal occurrence or is it faulty? If it's faulty are there any solutions?
Hey! I got a question about the HCigar Hammer Mod. - Beginner
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Since this is an older mod, there are tons of information on this and I even hear of people using HCigar Chi You parts to make it fire/work better etc.
Also, you may not be able to post yet, keep chugging along, but here is the discussion thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/483722-hammer-clone.html
There are also kits to make it look more like pipe etc.
Thanks porkchop bun! Yeah I'm trying to do that but having difficulty with taking the plastic off. Maybe it's not possible on the Hcigar, no idea. Thanks for the link to the Hammer Clone!
It is possible but you have to push the white piece comletely out of the cap. Then you will see where it seperates and can be unscrewed. I used some copper wire and twisted it around a 1.4mm screw driver in order to give it better conductivity. I also replaced the firing button spring the same way but then just traded out for the Chi You clone's firing button(cheap on FastTech but use USPS delivery or it will take forever to get to you!!). It has smoother operation and reverse threading so that the locking mechanism works better.
BTW... Here is what mine now looks like with the Kanger Mega tank, Chi You firing button, extended drip tip, and efest purple 10.5amp 18350 battery.
Well I ended up finding a way to get the plastic part out, but now when I reassemble it, the connection seems even worse. Note that I have yet to go get the brass springs, as of right now, I tried using the hammer mod on my frie'ds atomizer, 510 threaded and it seemed like it wouldn't fire due to the top cap connection, but that's just from what I can tell. It may also just be the firing button's problem. Not sure yet but it wouldn't fire.
Superhours, if you shake the Hammer slightly can you hear the battery flopping around inside?
Yeah it's somewhat rattling but it still seems like there should be a connection. I also heard hammer mods need to be altered to fit batteries..is this true? If it matters, I'm using a flat top mnke 18650 with the 650 extension on the hammer mod.
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Yeah.... It shouldn't be rattling at all! You can try to use a button top battery or a spacer of some sort.
how about a $5 fuse? might just be the cheapest way and increase safety. others will probably be able to help from here. Good Luck.
Can I assume you are also using a button top since you also have the hammer?
The fuse..I searched it up, it seems to make it more..let's say safe for mech mods with no circuit boards that stop the battery from short circuiting and blowing up. Still not sure how this is supposed to help besides making it safe.
I dont use a button top or fuse. I don't have arattling ptoblem or size problem... I have been using efest purplr 18350s @ .5 and .6 ohms with excellent results. Just always have a spare battery with me. But atleast they are small. I have tried with the 18650 battery but the shape reminds me too much of an inhaler or something!
And the fuse is going to limit your vape experience (voltage, vapor production, etc.) because of its limits.
And the fuse is going to limit your vape experience (voltage, vapor production, etc.) because of its limits.
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Can anyone e post a direct link to a replacementfiring switch for a hammer whether iit's a Chi You or king
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